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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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At the PE130 trans temps never got TO hot. Off the op of my head I want to say mid 200's. I'll try to remember to check my log book tonight to see where they were at.
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 12:46 PM
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Yeah, your old 9" is the unit I worry most about getting TOO hot. I'm hoping that the Be-Cool radiator with the 180 thermo & fans turned on will keep the motor cool eonough. And I'm also hoping the "efficient" stall I'm putting in and the B&M cooler will keep the trans temps down. But that BIG *** Moser is another story. For sure I will have a cast iron center section so the pinion seal shouldn't pop. And I'm going to be running a lot slower than you or Bill did. But, ya just never know.....
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Yeah, your old 9" is the unit I worry most about getting TOO hot. I'm hoping that the Be-Cool radiator with the 180 thermo & fans turned on will keep the motor cool eonough. And I'm also hoping the "efficient" stall I'm putting in and the B&M cooler will keep the trans temps down. But that BIG *** Moser is another story. For sure I will have a cast iron center section so the pinion seal shouldn't pop. And I'm going to be running a lot slower than you or Bill did. But, ya just never know.....
I'm telling ya Mark, we could swap straight up.. 3.42s..
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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Er, um, uh.....after due consideration, NO!
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Yeah, your old 9" is the unit I worry most about getting TOO hot. I'm hoping that the Be-Cool radiator with the 180 thermo & fans turned on will keep the motor cool enough.
Mark at high speeds your fans, if turned on, become a hindrance to airflow. You actually flow more air when they're OFF.

And I'm also hoping the "efficient" stall I'm putting in and the B&M cooler will keep the trans temps down. But that BIG *** Moser is another story. For sure I will have a cast iron center section so the pinion seal shouldn't pop. And I'm going to be running a lot slower than you or Bill did. But, ya just never know.....
Remember that you'll be running faster than I do at a lapping day. IMO your 250* diff temp gauge will peg itself within 10-15 miles of the starting line and from that point on you won't have any idea what temp it is .... however you WILL be thinking about it alot. Believe me when your going as fast as you will be you don't need something like that playing on your mind. This'll have to suffice as my last thought on the subject
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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I DO appreciate your input Bill. And I AM listening! But alas I ordered them the other day. So if the dif gauge isn't enough, I'll have to find a replacement for it. But, like I said, it's the best one for matching the car, so I'm kinda stuck. Remember the Car Show mentality I suffer from too? No white face, no mechanical = no other choice.
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 11:24 PM
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Mark, I'll order a 300* oil gauge and swap you. Unless at my speeds(110-124) my diff will be just as hot. Whatcha think Bill or Boyce? Will that speed go hotter than 250*?
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 12:03 AM
  #28  
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Well that's a pretty nice offer that's for sure
I don't really know how hot your diff will get .... I'm not even positive what rear end you have, however this is kind of how I look at it. IMO an oil temp gauge should tell you where exactly, within the operating range of your oil, are you ? If you know this, then you can make a sensible decision to pull over and park it if you need to. It's important because a diff locking up on you at 140 mph is one of those undesirables And the reason I keep mentioning a 300* gauge is because the good synthetics continue to do their job very well up to and even slightly beyond 300* ..... for a short while.. Fluids that have been run that hot need to be changed much more often than at say 240* or even 260*. For some reason 300*+ temps accelerate oil degradation.

Anyway, having said that, I'll also say that I completed my first ORR event in the 165/130 class of the SSCC without a cooler OR even a gauge to monitor temps Finishing the race was pretty iffy for the last 20 miles because of the extreme vibration and howling coming from my poor overheated diff, but I did finish. Once my diff cooled down it seemed to be fine and I'm stilling running it today, but I bet my temps must have been 400 friggen hundred degrees I know I don't get ANY howling at a lapping day at 300*. Anyway, I do believe that you guys will both finish this race in good shape no matter what gauge you do or don't have. In other words ...I'm justing trying to build your cars for you, I just need your money to do it lol !

You guys will be fine
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 12:06 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Remember the Car Show mentality I suffer from too? No white face, no mechanical = no other choice.
Whadya mean ? Ya saying white face ain't show quality ? j/k lol! These is beww-teee-fullll

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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 12:26 AM
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OK then, screw mark and I'm getting a 300* or 300*+ if I can find one. That's a good story as to how durable these little 7.5" rear ends really are. Did you have a diff cover with the main cap loading feature for the 165/130 run?

Build away. You've got a ton more experience with this stuff than I do. I'm a temp/press monitoring freak, the more the better. And, I'll swap ya paychecks anyday.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 09:02 AM
  #31  
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Well, I guess if you can use a 300* oil temp gauge to monitor the dif with, that would work. But like I said, I aint seen an elec 2 1/16" 300* dif temp gauge in black yet.
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