Gauge Questions
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From: Marysville, WA
Gauge Questions Looking at the Z Series Autometer gauges that Rick & I are thinking about getting, the Oil Temp goes up to 300*, and the Tranny & Dif Temp Gauges go up to 250*. Is that high enough? How about for open road racing Bill or Boyce or _____?
Well, if I heard Bill and his Co Pilot correctly on his video. When they went over the finish line all his drivetrain oil temps were right at 240*
I am getting my engine oil temp guage in the 300 range and my diff and tranny in the 250 range.
Z series? I thought you were going with the Sport Comps?
I am getting my engine oil temp guage in the 300 range and my diff and tranny in the 250 range.
Z series? I thought you were going with the Sport Comps?
My water temp gauge goes to 240*, trans=280*, oil=280*. I dont believe diff temp over 280* would happen unless you cook the thing so you should be safe with that one at 280* as well.
I run the liquid filled pro comp gauges. VERY easy to read at speed with the yellow and white contrasts. Requires less time to look at them. At just a quick glance I can read them without any trouble. The only downside to the procomps is that I believe they are all mechanical gauges......dont know for sure though.
I run the liquid filled pro comp gauges. VERY easy to read at speed with the yellow and white contrasts. Requires less time to look at them. At just a quick glance I can read them without any trouble. The only downside to the procomps is that I believe they are all mechanical gauges......dont know for sure though.
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From: Marysville, WA
This just in from Tbyrne:
I can get the Z Series 2639, 2640, 3214 (red covers) & 12213 (pod) right away. I can also special order the 2636 for you.....
So, it looks like I'll be ordering them. They are all electrical gauges btw.
I can get the Z Series 2639, 2640, 3214 (red covers) & 12213 (pod) right away. I can also special order the 2636 for you.....
So, it looks like I'll be ordering them. They are all electrical gauges btw.
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The Z series are mostly electric. That'd be a long run for that capillary tube for the differential temperature. All the Z series are 2 1/16".
No Pro Comps in 2 1/16", all 2 5/8"
I like the Phantoms. I have them in my Chevelle. I'd get them for the Formy too if I had the white faced dash. That might happen if I take it to the next level for the 06 PE130.
No Pro Comps in 2 1/16", all 2 5/8"
I like the Phantoms. I have them in my Chevelle. I'd get them for the Formy too if I had the white faced dash. That might happen if I take it to the next level for the 06 PE130.
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From: Bellingham/Edmonds, WA
So are you guys both getting the 3-pod a-pillar thing? Gauges are so expensive when you go electric! Gah. So do the Z Series and Pro Comps light up at night when you turn the lights on or something?
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From: Marysville, WA
I originally orderd the Sport comp gauges, but they have a chrome ring around them. The Z Series is all black...matches better. And yes, those 2 lines can be elec in 2 1/16" that fit the 3 gauge pillar pod made for our cars. Which are easier to connect(wires instead of hoses) & light up.
The mech ones are more accurate, and light up too I believe.....hope that answers your questions Eric.
The mech ones are more accurate, and light up too I believe.....hope that answers your questions Eric.
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From: Lincolnton, NC
The gauge scales that you have indicated will be more than fine. If your oil ever goes past 300deg F then you have some serious problems fixing to happen. I monitor my oil temp and pressure and the highest I have seen the oil is 220deg with the factory oil cooler. This was during the I-5 500 that I like to run everyday.
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From: LaConner WA
Mark I don't believe that 250* temp range is good enough JMHO. IMO you don't have to really be concerned until about 270-280 or so and even 300 is not that big of a deal in your diff. I've seen that temp many times pre-diff cooler doing lapping days in only a 20 minute lapping session. I'd hate to see you in the middle of an ORR event with the gauges pegged on 250* and not knowing exactly how hot it really was. My gauges all go to 300*. I say go with a minimum of 280* gauges, preferrably 300*.
When **** starts getting hot you want to know exactly how hot .... and 250* as far as oil temp goes is NOT hot.
When **** starts getting hot you want to know exactly how hot .... and 250* as far as oil temp goes is NOT hot.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Everett
Until I put in a real cooler, I couldn't keep my oil temp under 300 at PR when pushing it. It still gets well over 250 even with the cooler....
If you ever think you might want to try some lapping days, I'd recommend a gauge that goes to at least 300 for engine oil. Without a good cooler, you won't keep it under 250--unless you never push the car very hard. And yes, that applies to LS1's as well.
I ended up getting an Autometer full sweep ultra-lite electric:
Part # 4356. It's expensive, but it's the only electric I found that is 270 sweep instead of 90 degrees (I hate those things!). You can buy an extra sender (Part # 2252) for $20 and use it for more than one thing to save some money if you like.
Edit: Racehead beat me to it!
If you ever think you might want to try some lapping days, I'd recommend a gauge that goes to at least 300 for engine oil. Without a good cooler, you won't keep it under 250--unless you never push the car very hard. And yes, that applies to LS1's as well.
I ended up getting an Autometer full sweep ultra-lite electric:
Part # 4356. It's expensive, but it's the only electric I found that is 270 sweep instead of 90 degrees (I hate those things!). You can buy an extra sender (Part # 2252) for $20 and use it for more than one thing to save some money if you like.
Edit: Racehead beat me to it!
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From: LaConner WA
Hey Jon that's a nice looking gauge 
I didn't even know such a gauge was available, if I had then that's the one that I'd be using for my diff temp gauge. Mine only goes to 300* and like I said, before I put my diff cooler in, it would peg the gauge in a 20-25 min lapping session every time.
I didn't even know such a gauge was available, if I had then that's the one that I'd be using for my diff temp gauge. Mine only goes to 300* and like I said, before I put my diff cooler in, it would peg the gauge in a 20-25 min lapping session every time. On The Tree
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From: Everett
Don't worry, I'm sure you were only getting to 301. 
Actually that worries me. I didn't expect the diff would get so hot on a roadcourse. I'm sure that SLP "Oil Cooler Diff Cover" I have saves me.....
Looks like it's time to buy another sender and find out. That reminds me...my fluid is likely due for a change.
Actually that worries me. I didn't expect the diff would get so hot on a roadcourse. I'm sure that SLP "Oil Cooler Diff Cover" I have saves me.....
Looks like it's time to buy another sender and find out. That reminds me...my fluid is likely due for a change.
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From: Marysville, WA
The oil gauge I'm getting is a 300* unit. But the tranny & dif are only 250. I don't think Autometer makes any 300* tranny & dif temp gauges that are electric & have black faces. I will have to look again. And I don't want to run tubes & hoses into the interior.
02 NORC
02 C5 with no coolers running in the 145mph TS class with a 165 tech. Engine oil temps went as high as 318* according to the digital dash display.
This discussion makes me wish I had a diff gauge at the PE130 last year. I wonder how hot it was in there when it spit its pinion seal. I am going to guess it was over 300* to expand the pinion support enough to spit the seal. I do know it was about 20 minutes before I could physicaly put my hands on the diff.
02 C5 with no coolers running in the 145mph TS class with a 165 tech. Engine oil temps went as high as 318* according to the digital dash display.
This discussion makes me wish I had a diff gauge at the PE130 last year. I wonder how hot it was in there when it spit its pinion seal. I am going to guess it was over 300* to expand the pinion support enough to spit the seal. I do know it was about 20 minutes before I could physicaly put my hands on the diff.