I am interested after reading the SLP brochure I received at home about the new ZL402 LS2 based aluminum block and have a few questions.

1.) Would all my ls1 parts bolt on to this to make a complete motor for the low compression application including my supercharger?? Basically all the holes are the same for every part, I mean everything. Will my pcm work with it, motor mounts, starter, all that stuff.

2.) So I need a cam and heads right? What does a cam cost?

3.) Can I have my heads re done for this application? What is the cost est. for this?

4.) What would it cost to have someone put this together and in my car?

5.) The low compression will support 700hp (stated in the SLP brochure) 100 more hp than the high compression so are they saying with 18% loss that 593rwhp can be handled maximum safely?

****This is the high compression block set up shown below there is a low compression one available just not on the slp site yet but has 9:1 pistons I have the brochure at home./****


Crate-Engine Assembly, "ZL402" LS2 Aluminum Short Block (High Compression)
$3,949.95

Building upon the phenomenal success of our original ZL402 short-block, we’ve put together an equally potent, similarly affordable combination based on GM’s new LS2 engine architecture. This package uses the same race-proven internals as its iron predecessor but features all-aluminum construction for a weight savings of over 100 pounds as compared with an LQ4/LQ9-based engine. We’ve even ratcheted the compression ratio up to 11:1—the same as the new 500-horse LS7!

Although designed primarily for use in late-model F-Bodies and Corvettes, the aluminum ZL402 also makes a superlative choice for most street-rod, muscle-car, and truck applications. Best of all, it’s sold outright, eliminating the shipping hassles, protracted vehicle downtime, and additional out-of-pocket expenses associated with core returns.

You won’t find a higher-quality, lower-priced LS2 stroker combo anywhere!

Features
Built entirely from brand-new parts.
Sold outright—no cores required!
GM LS2 aluminum 6.0-liter block (includes block plugs)
4.000" Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft, balanced to rotating assembly
4.000" Ross 2618 forged alloy pistons with -6.00cc dish (includes new rings and full-float pins)
402-CID displacement
Eagle 6.125" H-beam rods
Includes new, factory-installed cam bearings; Clevite rod and main bearings.
Comes with all required LS1 retrofit hardware
11:1 compression ratio (nominal; ultimate compression ratio will depend upon heads and gaskets used)
Designed for naturally aspirated applications.
Capable of supporting over 600 hp.
Meticulously assembled to OEM tolerances and specifications.
Oil pump, camshaft, pans, and plates not included.


NOTES: SLP STRONGLY recommends that final assembly and installation be performed by an experienced, professional mechanic. Assembly/installation instructions are neither included nor available with this part. Not compatible with pre-2005 GM knock sensors!

This item must be prepaid with a certified check or money order.
Please call (732) 349-2109 for more information and a shipping quote.
Price does not include $100 crate-fee charge.

 

If you were to go this route, Todd, I would seriously give a call to Alan Futral at Futral Motorsports, or Jason or Trevor at Texas Speed & Performance. Have either shop set you up with a good cam and heads to match that would do well with your supercharger on the lower compression 402. Either of those two shops will take all the information about what you want to do with the car, what parts you're putting on, and make a solid recommendation from there.

From the looks of it, I'd say all your bolt-ons should carry right over to it, so you should be fine there.

As for someone to install a whole engine... well, you've had Shaun do some work for you before, and he can do an entire engine swap. He had a few cars with engines being swapped in his shop last time I was there...

 

Whatever you do, wait for Ellis or Ryan to weigh in on this Todd. I do not think the parts are the same. I know Ellis said the PCM code for LS2/7s has not been cracked yet, so you'd at least need a new PCM....that NOBODY could tune for you! And I think the intake is different which could mean the heads are too.

If I was going to setup a motor for a s/c, I'd go with the truck motor (like Ryan has). It's cast iron, lower compression, and all your stuff WILL work on it. At least that I know of. I forget how much boost Ryan is pushing right now, but it seems to like it.

Again, I'd call / pm / drive over to talk to those 2 guys to see what they have to say. Now if you were talking about small block or big block Chevy motors, maybe I could answer.

 

Ok, here is the deal. Not All of your parts will work on this motor. However, SDPC, sells a kit to make it work with your PCM. The only thing you loose is Knock sensors. The LS2's mount the ks on the side of the motor and its not compatable with the LS1 ks. Other than that, everything else is a bolt on.

 

The LS2 will work just fine with your existing ECM with the exception of the knock sensors. To my knowledge there is not currently a work-a-round to this problem. You'll just have to do without the knock sensors. You could, of course use an LS2 ECM, but they have completely differant pin-outs so you'd have to go thru each wire one by one and place them in the correct location in the plug to match up with the differances. I don't know if the plugs themselves are physically differant or not. I would assume, until shown otherwise, that they are differant. Another thing is the LS2's are all fly-by-wire throttle setups, so it might be that the LS2 ECM would demand to see input from an electronic throttle to work.

Like I mentioned, at this point everybody seems to be using their LS1 ECM's and disabling the knock sensors because of it's relative simplicity. If someone wanted to wire in an LS2 ECM I'd be happy to help them figure out how to wire it up.

 

Hey Ryan you beat me to it

 

So to make sure everything hooks up correctly and bolts in place I would be better off lowering the compression in my engine, keep the same cubes, and have the heads re-done? This would prob be more cost effective, correct? And easier to tune etc.?

Again I am just researching, not buying now.

 

yeah or if you wanted a 402 you could probably get a low compression stroker kit. (I think)

 

or if you still wanted the cubes you could do what i am and build an iron 408, for alot less money and bolt up evrything you own including the knock sensors, and pcm. It would add a little weight to the front end but you would make enough power to overcom that.

 

They have had the ZL402 for over a year now. The first one was based on the LS1 6.0L truck engine before there was an LS2. This might be a better block for you to use. I have the complete write up on that I took to last years dyno day at Carb Connection that I can give you. Its a complete short block and accepts everything from your car.

 

Here it is:

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=12400

 

here's the LS1 ZL402 stroker kit

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=12403

 

That prob would be the best way to go. When the time comes I will hand the project to some one.

I just want to see some opinions about this.

 

yeah here's the LQ9 iron short block jason was talkin about with the ZL402 LS1 kit

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=12401

 

I would go with the iron block but would call one of the sponsers, like hpe, from what i have heard they build a kickass engine, and it will probely be cheaper and better assy than slp.

 

I would have to do something like this...Lingenfelter 383...just too much money, on sale 14k.

383 Lingenfelter

 

for a bad *** 408, go to lme. they are more expensive than hpe or slp, but the quality of parts used is awesome. hpe can build you the same motor, but i dunno how much more it would be than their eagle 408. Mr. Powell's 8 second N20 car is running a lme 408, and has has had it replaced under peco's warantee once. thats customer service when you know there is a 350hp direct port kit on top of the motor!

 

Damn... I totally missed the fact that you were talking about the 402 LS2... I thought you were talking about the low compression LS1 version. The 402 LS1 makes the most sense for you since everything should swap over...

 

That was what I was wondering. As I get real serious I would call SLP.