A gear ratio question for you drag racers...
#1
A gear ratio question for you drag racers...
Don't ask why I am asking but do want to know.
My 3:42 gears go 135mph at redline in 4th gear.
1.) What do 3:73 gears top out at mph?
2.) What do 4:10 gears top out at mph?
3.) Would either rear gears have to make me shift to fifth gear in the quarter, if I were to run a 11.999 quarter mi run?
Thank you for the help as always.
Most of you probably know this like the back of you hand.
My 3:42 gears go 135mph at redline in 4th gear.
1.) What do 3:73 gears top out at mph?
2.) What do 4:10 gears top out at mph?
3.) Would either rear gears have to make me shift to fifth gear in the quarter, if I were to run a 11.999 quarter mi run?
Thank you for the help as always.
Most of you probably know this like the back of you hand.
#2
This is the best thing to use to calculate what gear ratio would be best for you:
www.f-body.org/gears
I use 4.11s, and 4th gear will top out at 131 mph with a 26.1" tall tire. But that's because my rev limiter is set at 6900 rpms.
Since you're still running stock gears, stock rev limiter, and 26" QTPs when you go to the track, you'll hit your rev limiter (6200 rpms) at 117 mph.
So, if you were going to make a change in gearing, I would probably go with 3.73s, unless you plan on getting a cam that will push your power band into higher rpms, which will give you a higher mph ceiling... if that is in your plans, then I'd go with the 4.10s.
www.f-body.org/gears
I use 4.11s, and 4th gear will top out at 131 mph with a 26.1" tall tire. But that's because my rev limiter is set at 6900 rpms.
Since you're still running stock gears, stock rev limiter, and 26" QTPs when you go to the track, you'll hit your rev limiter (6200 rpms) at 117 mph.
So, if you were going to make a change in gearing, I would probably go with 3.73s, unless you plan on getting a cam that will push your power band into higher rpms, which will give you a higher mph ceiling... if that is in your plans, then I'd go with the 4.10s.
#3
Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
This is the best thing to use to calculate what gear ratio would be best for you:
www.f-body.org/gears
I use 4.11s, and 4th gear will top out at 131 mph with a 26.1" tall tire. But that's because my rev limiter is set at 6900 rpms.
Since you're still running stock gears, stock rev limiter, and 26" QTPs when you go to the track, you'll hit your rev limiter (6200 rpms) at 117 mph.
So, if you were going to make a change in gearing, I would probably go with 3.73s, unless you plan on getting a cam that will push your power band into higher rpms, which will give you a higher mph ceiling... if that is in your plans, then I'd go with the 4.10s.
www.f-body.org/gears
I use 4.11s, and 4th gear will top out at 131 mph with a 26.1" tall tire. But that's because my rev limiter is set at 6900 rpms.
Since you're still running stock gears, stock rev limiter, and 26" QTPs when you go to the track, you'll hit your rev limiter (6200 rpms) at 117 mph.
So, if you were going to make a change in gearing, I would probably go with 3.73s, unless you plan on getting a cam that will push your power band into higher rpms, which will give you a higher mph ceiling... if that is in your plans, then I'd go with the 4.10s.
On day selling the next modding, seriously, I do not even drink.
#4
gears on the street, and gears at the track are 2 diffrent worlds todd. you have to remember you are pushing alot of power and still have a stock 10 bolt. If i were you i would keep the stock gears and just try and work with what you have, and not take the risk of blowing away the reaend. i think you will be able to run 11's with the gears you have now. Just need to push the car harder at the track
#5
4.10's are way too much for a blower car unless you're running a 28" tire. you start rolling on the big end and need to make sure you have enough gear to get to the traps. a buddy of mine runs a 3.73 in his blower car. he is banging out 4th as he's crossing the traps, but is making about 100 more rwhp than you. you should be fine with a 3.73
#6
Originally Posted by sardog46
gears on the street, and gears at the track are 2 diffrent worlds todd. you have to remember you are pushing alot of power and still have a stock 10 bolt. If i were you i would keep the stock gears and just try and work with what you have, and not take the risk of blowing away the reaend. i think you will be able to run 11's with the gears you have now. Just need to push the car harder at the track
I can bump it in 1st (no reving) coast, then punch it and the wheels let loose at 3k rpms, below that it is a little weak, this may help break the wheels loose at 2500rpms. I should tune for more tq lower, honestly.
Right now, for the amount of racing I do I can break my 10bolt a bunch of times for the price of a 12bolt. Plus I don't have the money for one. I hear what your saying though. I just do not want to screw up the quarter completly with the wrong gear.
I am thinking I will race you at the track, line up, bump the car in first at 1500rpms to save the rear then catch up to you down the track! What a plan!
#7
Originally Posted by Todd2001SS
Your prob right. I just want to give it 3/4 of a pedal instead of a full one to get in the 11's, lol.
I can bump it in 1st (no reving) coast, then punch it and the wheels let loose at 3k rpms, below that it is a little weak, this may help break the wheels loose at 2500rpms. I should tune for more tq lower, honestly.
Right now, for the amount of racing I do I can break my 10bolt a bunch of times for the price of a 12bolt. Plus I don't have the money for one. I hear what your saying though. I just do not want to screw up the quarter completly with the wrong gear.
I am thinking I will race you at the track, line up, bump the car in first at 1500rpms to save the rear then catch up to you down the track! What a plan!
I can bump it in 1st (no reving) coast, then punch it and the wheels let loose at 3k rpms, below that it is a little weak, this may help break the wheels loose at 2500rpms. I should tune for more tq lower, honestly.
Right now, for the amount of racing I do I can break my 10bolt a bunch of times for the price of a 12bolt. Plus I don't have the money for one. I hear what your saying though. I just do not want to screw up the quarter completly with the wrong gear.
I am thinking I will race you at the track, line up, bump the car in first at 1500rpms to save the rear then catch up to you down the track! What a plan!
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#8
if you break a 10 bolt from a roll, i have all kinds of respect for you. just put the car on tires, do a john force burn out, slip the clutch out of the hole, and hammer it when you're good and hooked. you'll have a shitty 60', put an awesome mph.
#9
Tell you the truth todd, for the amount of racing you do i would not whange a thing. Take it to the track lick it is run it, so what if it only runs twelvs, if anyone talk smack just go ask them to compare trophy collections
#10
Originally Posted by kickassT/A
if you break a 10 bolt from a roll, i have all kinds of respect for you. just put the car on tires, do a john force burn out, slip the clutch out of the hole, and hammer it when you're good and hooked. you'll have a shitty 60', put an awesome mph.
great mile per hour but shitty e.t. and thats what he is looking for.
#11
Originally Posted by sardog46
Tell you the truth todd, for the amount of racing you do i would not whange a thing. Take it to the track lick it is run it, so what if it only runs twelvs, if anyone talk smack just go ask them to compare trophy collections
Can't I have everything! I like racing just hate getting my car dirty! I do want to be in the top 10 NW, kind of cool. I am hanging by a thread in last place! It just makes 6k worth of speed performance in the car better to swallow if I could run a 11.999999999. Not that it was the complete entension of the blower. I give you tons of credit, your car pulling the wheels is just the ****!
Originally Posted by kickassT/A
4.10's are way too much for a blower car
Originally Posted by kickassT/A
it works. 11.60's all night with a trap speed of 129-130. 570rwhp
#12
Just think of it this way Todd... with the blower from a roll on the street with 4.10s and on street tires, good luck getting traction in ANY gear.
Yes, most races are from a roll... but having the 4.10s won't help you in a street race if you're constantly smoking the tires because of the power your car puts down.
Ellis put it this way... more gear is a crutch for less power. Since you have more power, you don't need that much more gear. I think 3.73s would be plenty enough if you want to make a change.
Yes, most races are from a roll... but having the 4.10s won't help you in a street race if you're constantly smoking the tires because of the power your car puts down.
Ellis put it this way... more gear is a crutch for less power. Since you have more power, you don't need that much more gear. I think 3.73s would be plenty enough if you want to make a change.
#13
I agree with the basics of what has been said here, your car will run low 12s / hi 11s as it sits Todd. You want a taller gear ratio to let your power adder make the power for you. Deep gears are for guys like me that don't have the HP.
After Saturday I know some things that will help you. Run 15 psi in your QTPs. I found 17 doesn't hook as well & 13 is a little too squirrely on the top end. Then do a LONG burnout with your slicks. I mean 10 seconds of smoke in 2nd gear long. Then your QTPs should hook. A short burnout does nothing for them if you're putting serious power down & hitting them hard.
And figure out what the lowest speed is that you can go WOT in 1st gear without it bogging (i.e. rolling along at 10mph & nailing it & it stands on it's tail & shoots off). That is your target for launching. However you get there - bring it out hard, or soft, or burn the clutch, whatever - get to that point & floor it.
Reving it up & dumping the clutch with sticky slicks & stock suspension will kill your 10 bolt. And I would wind it out to 6k & shift. This gives your POS factory tach some leeway so you don't over-rev the engine. If you prefect this process and add good short shifts (WOT, lift & shift as fast as you can, WOT) your car will run the times you want.
But like I said a month ago, BEFORE you go to the track again, PLEASE take your car out to let Ellis have a peek. Just to make sure. You had one of the BAD supercharger indicators happen the last time you raced. Let someone who's been there look / listen to your car before you go racing again. PLEASE!
PS I love the trophy collection. And the BIG ones aren't even there. IMPRESSIVE!
After Saturday I know some things that will help you. Run 15 psi in your QTPs. I found 17 doesn't hook as well & 13 is a little too squirrely on the top end. Then do a LONG burnout with your slicks. I mean 10 seconds of smoke in 2nd gear long. Then your QTPs should hook. A short burnout does nothing for them if you're putting serious power down & hitting them hard.
And figure out what the lowest speed is that you can go WOT in 1st gear without it bogging (i.e. rolling along at 10mph & nailing it & it stands on it's tail & shoots off). That is your target for launching. However you get there - bring it out hard, or soft, or burn the clutch, whatever - get to that point & floor it.
Reving it up & dumping the clutch with sticky slicks & stock suspension will kill your 10 bolt. And I would wind it out to 6k & shift. This gives your POS factory tach some leeway so you don't over-rev the engine. If you prefect this process and add good short shifts (WOT, lift & shift as fast as you can, WOT) your car will run the times you want.
But like I said a month ago, BEFORE you go to the track again, PLEASE take your car out to let Ellis have a peek. Just to make sure. You had one of the BAD supercharger indicators happen the last time you raced. Let someone who's been there look / listen to your car before you go racing again. PLEASE!
PS I love the trophy collection. And the BIG ones aren't even there. IMPRESSIVE!
Last edited by WAHUSKER; 04-11-2005 at 10:38 AM.
#14
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
I agree with the basics of what has been said here, your car will run low 12s / hi 11s as it sits Todd. You want a taller gear ratio to let your power adder make the power for you. Deep gears are for guys like me that don't have the HP.
After Saturday I know some things that will help you. Run 15 psi in your QTPs. I found 17 doesn't hook as well & 13 is a little too squirrely on the top end. Then do a LONG burnout with your slicks. I mean 10 seconds of smoke in 2nd gear long. Then your QTPs should hook. A short burnout does nothing for them if you're putting serious power down & hitting them hard.
And figure out what the lowest speed is that you can go WOT in 1st gear without it bogging (i.e. rolling along at 10mph & nailing it & it stands on it's tail & shoots off). That is your target for launching. However you get there - bring it out hard, or soft, or burn the clutch, whatever - get to that point & floor it.
Reving it up & dumping the clutch with sticky slicks & stock suspension will kill your 10 bolt. And I would wind it out to 6k & shift. This gives your POS factory tach some leeway so you don't over-rev the engine. If you prefect this process and add good short shifts (WOT, lift & shift as fast as you can, WOT) your car will run the times you want.
But like I said a month ago, BEFORE you go to the track again, PLEASE take your car out to let Ellis have a peek. Just to make sure. You had one of the BAD supercharger indicators happen the last time you raced. Let someone who's been there look / listen to your car before you go racing again. PLEASE!
PS I love the trophy collection. And the BIG ones are even there. IMPRESSIVE!
After Saturday I know some things that will help you. Run 15 psi in your QTPs. I found 17 doesn't hook as well & 13 is a little too squirrely on the top end. Then do a LONG burnout with your slicks. I mean 10 seconds of smoke in 2nd gear long. Then your QTPs should hook. A short burnout does nothing for them if you're putting serious power down & hitting them hard.
And figure out what the lowest speed is that you can go WOT in 1st gear without it bogging (i.e. rolling along at 10mph & nailing it & it stands on it's tail & shoots off). That is your target for launching. However you get there - bring it out hard, or soft, or burn the clutch, whatever - get to that point & floor it.
Reving it up & dumping the clutch with sticky slicks & stock suspension will kill your 10 bolt. And I would wind it out to 6k & shift. This gives your POS factory tach some leeway so you don't over-rev the engine. If you prefect this process and add good short shifts (WOT, lift & shift as fast as you can, WOT) your car will run the times you want.
But like I said a month ago, BEFORE you go to the track again, PLEASE take your car out to let Ellis have a peek. Just to make sure. You had one of the BAD supercharger indicators happen the last time you raced. Let someone who's been there look / listen to your car before you go racing again. PLEASE!
PS I love the trophy collection. And the BIG ones are even there. IMPRESSIVE!
#15
Like i said before todd, don't change a thing. evryone makes good points, on this subject,, but if you heat those tires up and launch at the track you will most likley bust your ten blot with anymore gear than stock. I am not saying it will happen, but it is areally good posibility.
4.10's on the street from a roll are not that bad, just have to come on the power a little smother. I used to spray frm the roll, and that comes on alot more sudden than the power from you blower. I did not have traction problem on the nittos. As long as i was going about 30-40mph. The only hing that would kill you would be from a dig on the street, unlees you run slicks on the street, but i don't see that happening.
I think that that car with the power it has will have no problem running mid to high 11's you just need the seat time in it. I didn't just get in the car and runs 10's. It takes time. look at the begining of his year started out running 11.6-11.7, now it is 11.2 evry motor run. you get faster with experince. Trust me.
4.10's on the street from a roll are not that bad, just have to come on the power a little smother. I used to spray frm the roll, and that comes on alot more sudden than the power from you blower. I did not have traction problem on the nittos. As long as i was going about 30-40mph. The only hing that would kill you would be from a dig on the street, unlees you run slicks on the street, but i don't see that happening.
I think that that car with the power it has will have no problem running mid to high 11's you just need the seat time in it. I didn't just get in the car and runs 10's. It takes time. look at the begining of his year started out running 11.6-11.7, now it is 11.2 evry motor run. you get faster with experince. Trust me.
#16
Originally Posted by sardog46
Like i said before todd, don't change a thing. evryone makes good points, on this subject,, but if you heat those tires up and launch at the track you will most likley bust your ten blot with anymore gear than stock. I am not saying it will happen, but it is areally good posibility.
4.10's on the street from a roll are not that bad, just have to come on the power a little smother. I used to spray frm the roll, and that comes on alot more sudden than the power from you blower. I did not have traction problem on the nittos. As long as i was going about 30-40mph. The only hing that would kill you would be from a dig on the street, unlees you run slicks on the street, but i don't see that happening.
I think that that car with the power it has will have no problem running mid to high 11's you just need the seat time in it. I didn't just get in the car and runs 10's. It takes time. look at the begining of his year started out running 11.6-11.7, now it is 11.2 evry motor run. you get faster with experince. Trust me.
4.10's on the street from a roll are not that bad, just have to come on the power a little smother. I used to spray frm the roll, and that comes on alot more sudden than the power from you blower. I did not have traction problem on the nittos. As long as i was going about 30-40mph. The only hing that would kill you would be from a dig on the street, unlees you run slicks on the street, but i don't see that happening.
I think that that car with the power it has will have no problem running mid to high 11's you just need the seat time in it. I didn't just get in the car and runs 10's. It takes time. look at the begining of his year started out running 11.6-11.7, now it is 11.2 evry motor run. you get faster with experince. Trust me.
All right, screw the gears.
#19
Originally Posted by Todd2001SS
It is really nice when folks say not to spend money especially when you don't see the part.