Battery Relocation Kit
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From: Marysville, WA
Battery Relocation Kit I know a couple guys on here have them. Which kits did you get, where did you buy them, would you recommend them, or something else, do you have the shut-off switches, any tips, etc etc etc. 
I have an Optima Red Top battery, so that part is good to go....
I have an Optima Red Top battery, so that part is good to go....
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From: Marysville, WA
I'm moving it to the spare tire well. I will be needing to move my coil packs (again) & the battery area seems the most likely spot. The weight transfer will be icing.....
Anybody know the NHRA rules about at what ET you need a shut-off switch? Or is it an always-always thing if you relocate the batt?
Anybody know the NHRA rules about at what ET you need a shut-off switch? Or is it an always-always thing if you relocate the batt?
I am pretty sure that in NHRA that you have to have an external cutoff if the battery has been moved. I.E. the "T" handle sticking out the back of the car.
For road racing the cut off can be anywhere as long as there is a "power" sticker ourside the car very close to the location of the cutoff.
For road racing the cut off can be anywhere as long as there is a "power" sticker ourside the car very close to the location of the cutoff.
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From: Kent WA
I know the master cut-off switch is only necessary at 10.99 or faster when doing at least a 135mph trap speed... talking strict ET there. At 9.99 it becomes necessary no matter what trap speed you run.
I don't know if that changes with a batt-relocation though... my quick reference sheet says to check section 8:4 of the NHRA rulebook concerning the cut-off switch for any exceptions to the rule. Unfortunately, I don't have the rulebook...
I don't know if that changes with a batt-relocation though... my quick reference sheet says to check section 8:4 of the NHRA rulebook concerning the cut-off switch for any exceptions to the rule. Unfortunately, I don't have the rulebook...
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From: Marysville, WA
Thanks Doug, I thought that was the case, but I need someone to check the rules, unless they know. I don't want to drill a hole in the rear bumper if I don't "need" to. I've paid for the NHRA rule book twice & still haven't received one...... 
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Ha ha!
Master cutoff switch is mandatory when battery is relocated. An electrical power cutoff switch (only one) must be installed in the REARMOST part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from the outside of the car body. The cutoff switch must be connected to the POSITIVE side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word OFF. If the switch is push/pull type, push must be the action of shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn on. Any rods of cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8 inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited.
Master cutoff switch is mandatory when battery is relocated. An electrical power cutoff switch (only one) must be installed in the REARMOST part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from the outside of the car body. The cutoff switch must be connected to the POSITIVE side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word OFF. If the switch is push/pull type, push must be the action of shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn on. Any rods of cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8 inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited.
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From: Bellingham/Edmonds, WA
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
I don't want to drill a hole in the rear bumper if I don't "need" to.
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From: Marysville, WA
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From: Marysville, WA
I think you can do it either way. And there are logical reasons for both. The wiring is protected from damage when routed inside. but IF you have a short, having the battery feeder inside the car under the carpet & pad is a BAD thing. But I haven't seen any NHRA requirement stating it must be this way or that....