Blown Blower :mad:
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Surrey, BC
Blown Blower :mad: Well after the THIRD rebuild of the motor I have been out testing things.
Whilst my brother was driving and I was tuning on the FAST we went for a blast. FORTUNATELY I had logged the run.
Started in third gear at 2850 rpms. Excelerated to 5500 rpms. Boost went as high as 13.4#'s. Air fuel PERFECT and then my brother went to change gears. At that split second - and thus unable to tell if the lift of the throttle caused the problem - there was an 'explosion' a grinding vibration that was scary as hell. Was it the clutch, tranny, motor? No lights on the dash so i assume oil pressure is still good.
Its the blower. The impeller has fouled the housing badly. The boost side of the blower tubing has a film of grey aluminum sludge. As I spin the impeller there is a tasty grinding happening. The differance in the set up THIS year is that I installed the SDCE bracketry. With 13.4 #'s at 5450 rpms I wonder what the boost is going to be at 6200 rpms? Previously the highest boost I had ever seen was 13.4#.
So what happened? What should I be looking for? What do I do? Send it to ATI for a rebuild or is it not worth it? Buy a new one? What about damage to the motor? Once I had taken the blower out I disconnected the coil wire and turned the motor over. The motor sounds fine. However, I noticed a little oil at the back. Almost certainly another leaking rear main seal. I plan on installing an electric vacuum pump.
Almost certainly unrelated but, the water out of the rad was dirty. Had very fine dirt in the water. It is brownish, not silver so I hope its just general dirt.
So question guys, any ideas why it happened? Whats it going to cost for a rebuild?
Whilst my brother was driving and I was tuning on the FAST we went for a blast. FORTUNATELY I had logged the run.
Started in third gear at 2850 rpms. Excelerated to 5500 rpms. Boost went as high as 13.4#'s. Air fuel PERFECT and then my brother went to change gears. At that split second - and thus unable to tell if the lift of the throttle caused the problem - there was an 'explosion' a grinding vibration that was scary as hell. Was it the clutch, tranny, motor? No lights on the dash so i assume oil pressure is still good.
Its the blower. The impeller has fouled the housing badly. The boost side of the blower tubing has a film of grey aluminum sludge. As I spin the impeller there is a tasty grinding happening. The differance in the set up THIS year is that I installed the SDCE bracketry. With 13.4 #'s at 5450 rpms I wonder what the boost is going to be at 6200 rpms? Previously the highest boost I had ever seen was 13.4#.
So what happened? What should I be looking for? What do I do? Send it to ATI for a rebuild or is it not worth it? Buy a new one? What about damage to the motor? Once I had taken the blower out I disconnected the coil wire and turned the motor over. The motor sounds fine. However, I noticed a little oil at the back. Almost certainly another leaking rear main seal. I plan on installing an electric vacuum pump.
Almost certainly unrelated but, the water out of the rad was dirty. Had very fine dirt in the water. It is brownish, not silver so I hope its just general dirt.
So question guys, any ideas why it happened? Whats it going to cost for a rebuild?
That sucks! 
This sounds like an Ellis thread to me. I know the thing I would suspect would be a blow-off valve that stuck, and thus caused the problem when he lifted to shift. Leaking oil from the rear seems to be common among blown LS1s. I know there is a cam sensor behind the intake that leaks....
Now whether the dirty coolant is an indication that the damage is worse than you think, only time will tell. I'd run a compression check before I tried to start it. And I'd pressurize the coolant system too if you can. Talking to Ellis about his incident tells me when a blower lets loose at hi rpms, it can take several things with it.....
I just talked to ATI about sending a head unit back for inspection. They charge $75 to open it up & take a look. After that it depends on what's broken/worn out. Good luck!
Mark
This sounds like an Ellis thread to me. I know the thing I would suspect would be a blow-off valve that stuck, and thus caused the problem when he lifted to shift. Leaking oil from the rear seems to be common among blown LS1s. I know there is a cam sensor behind the intake that leaks....Now whether the dirty coolant is an indication that the damage is worse than you think, only time will tell. I'd run a compression check before I tried to start it. And I'd pressurize the coolant system too if you can. Talking to Ellis about his incident tells me when a blower lets loose at hi rpms, it can take several things with it.....
I just talked to ATI about sending a head unit back for inspection. They charge $75 to open it up & take a look. After that it depends on what's broken/worn out. Good luck!
Mark
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Shaun I am so very Sorry to hear this. I know the battle you have fought getting there.
Best thing to do is send it back to ATI and get it checked out. at least then you may have some trade in or core value to exchange. It does sound like a blow off valve incident. If I remember right you are running a good BOV though?
I got you mail.I will shoot you a mail back with numbers.
Hopefully there are no chunks like there was when mine blew up. other then a chunk stuck on top of the piston and crap in the oil My motor was ok.
Again sorry to hear this..
Best thing to do is send it back to ATI and get it checked out. at least then you may have some trade in or core value to exchange. It does sound like a blow off valve incident. If I remember right you are running a good BOV though?
I got you mail.I will shoot you a mail back with numbers.
Hopefully there are no chunks like there was when mine blew up. other then a chunk stuck on top of the piston and crap in the oil My motor was ok.
Again sorry to hear this..
FormerVendor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Portland Oregon
If the impellar took out the volute a complete new unit maybe required. Once you replace the impellar, bearings, volute and perhaps the mating housing you may as well get a new unit with a new warranty. 
A friend of mine lost a Vortec T trim is a similar manner, to fix it would have cost more than a new one. Here is the $60 question, did any chunks get blown into your engine, now that would really suck.
A friend of mine lost a Vortec T trim is a similar manner, to fix it would have cost more than a new one. Here is the $60 question, did any chunks get blown into your engine, now that would really suck. Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Surrey, BC
At this point I'm 97% certain that "chunks" did not make it to the motor.
I'll put it back together on Sat and hopefully see how well it runs NA.
I also got a header leak though PITA. That was BEFORE this happened though.
If it requires a new head unit, I wonder how viable a turbo set up would be?
I'll put it back together on Sat and hopefully see how well it runs NA.
I also got a header leak though PITA. That was BEFORE this happened though.
If it requires a new head unit, I wonder how viable a turbo set up would be?
Trending Topics
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I was going to sugest a Turbo kit Shaun. Every thing is already in place. Just need a good kit and take off the headers.
Might Give Turbo Tech a call tomorrow and see! MUCH more reliable and lately twice the power! With your set up I would think you could get over 600 RWHP easy
Might Give Turbo Tech a call tomorrow and see! MUCH more reliable and lately twice the power! With your set up I would think you could get over 600 RWHP easy
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