Questions about headers..
Questions about headers.. I'm gearing up for the next round of mods, and I think my first step is going to be a new exhaust system. My first concern is clearance, because my car sits to freakin low..
Right now I'm leaning towards the Pacesetter headers because I like how they tuck under the car... Curious though.. is it better to buy them coated, or buy them uncoated and then have someone coat them locally?
Second.... I wanna go with a catted y-pipe to stay legal (even though I don't have to, and don't do emissions right now)... Who makes a good y-pipe that would work with Pacesetters and would give me decent clearance?
Third... I have to get a drive shaft loop... Who makes a decent DSL that would not interfere with the above setup?
Gonna go with the GMMG chambered exhaust for my cat back.. I think that should make a nice set up and make the Formula sound much better.
After that, it's time to start looking at a converter.
Right now I'm leaning towards the Pacesetter headers because I like how they tuck under the car... Curious though.. is it better to buy them coated, or buy them uncoated and then have someone coat them locally?
Second.... I wanna go with a catted y-pipe to stay legal (even though I don't have to, and don't do emissions right now)... Who makes a good y-pipe that would work with Pacesetters and would give me decent clearance?
Third... I have to get a drive shaft loop... Who makes a decent DSL that would not interfere with the above setup?
Gonna go with the GMMG chambered exhaust for my cat back.. I think that should make a nice set up and make the Formula sound much better.
After that, it's time to start looking at a converter.
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From: LaConner WA
I don't have any experience with Pacesetters so I don't know. QTP's, Kooks, and PPC's all have great ground clearance although the price is more. I think most people around here who buy coated headers ( instead of stainless ) just order them coated.
IMO if you want a good y-pipe you need to go to your local favorite exhaust shop after the header install and have one made up for YOUR car. I've never been impressed with a single pre-made y-pipe. I spent about $300+ on my QTP dual cutout pipe and then was so dis-satisfied that I went and spent another $150 to basically have it re-made to fit my car better. Lesson learned
I bought a Metco DSL when I had stock exhaust and it fit great. Once I changed the exhaust I had to re-fab it to get it to work. I'm not sure who makes one that will for sure work perfectly with aftermarket exhaust ? Somebody here should know.
All of the GMMG chambered exhaust systems I've heard sounded exceptionally sweet. If I were going to change my Borla out, this is what would go back in
IMO if you want a good y-pipe you need to go to your local favorite exhaust shop after the header install and have one made up for YOUR car. I've never been impressed with a single pre-made y-pipe. I spent about $300+ on my QTP dual cutout pipe and then was so dis-satisfied that I went and spent another $150 to basically have it re-made to fit my car better. Lesson learned
I bought a Metco DSL when I had stock exhaust and it fit great. Once I changed the exhaust I had to re-fab it to get it to work. I'm not sure who makes one that will for sure work perfectly with aftermarket exhaust ? Somebody here should know.
All of the GMMG chambered exhaust systems I've heard sounded exceptionally sweet. If I were going to change my Borla out, this is what would go back in
I have a jegs driveshaft loop. It was like $35 and fit fine (once you cut off the two ends) with my hooker catback.
IMO the gmmg with long tubes will be WAY too loud and drone. I would think you'd want to lean towards one of the quieter catbacks. (Now that I think a little more, with a catted Y pipe you might be OK)
I think it is more expensive overall to have the headers coated seperately and more of a pain. I know tranzer had his coated after he bought them, I'm sure he'd have some insight.
IMO the gmmg with long tubes will be WAY too loud and drone. I would think you'd want to lean towards one of the quieter catbacks. (Now that I think a little more, with a catted Y pipe you might be OK)
I think it is more expensive overall to have the headers coated seperately and more of a pain. I know tranzer had his coated after he bought them, I'm sure he'd have some insight.
Originally Posted by Ackattack1
IMO the gmmg with long tubes will be WAY too loud and drone. I would think you'd want to lean towards one of the quieter catbacks. (Now that I think a little more, with a catted Y pipe you might be OK)
I think Tranzor has the pacesetter headers AND y-pipe, all coated locally.
Doug has GMMG with headers....it's not as loud as my car!
Ellis & others will tell you the 2 (3?) pc DSL is the way to go. They might be right. My SLP fits fine with my exhaust, as did the BMR I had on initially. But that pos hung down about 3" & hit everything. The SLP still hits a few things.
And Bill is 100% dead-on regarding y-pipes. Mine tucks well (PPC), but the dr side cat hits (2 1/2" clearance). I am about to have a custom one built.....and it is all coated & I love it. Much cooler, & no rust.
Doug has GMMG with headers....it's not as loud as my car!
Ellis & others will tell you the 2 (3?) pc DSL is the way to go. They might be right. My SLP fits fine with my exhaust, as did the BMR I had on initially. But that pos hung down about 3" & hit everything. The SLP still hits a few things.
And Bill is 100% dead-on regarding y-pipes. Mine tucks well (PPC), but the dr side cat hits (2 1/2" clearance). I am about to have a custom one built.....and it is all coated & I love it. Much cooler, & no rust.
Nothings as loud as your car! 
I have a Spohn DSL, 3 piece, and the only concern I have is my Y pipe will bang it when I go wot in first, but only if I am on a bumpy road. If it is nice and smooth when I go WOT, no problema.
I have a Spohn DSL, 3 piece, and the only concern I have is my Y pipe will bang it when I go wot in first, but only if I am on a bumpy road. If it is nice and smooth when I go WOT, no problema.
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Originally Posted by Rokko
Nothings as loud as your car!
Originally Posted by Rokko
I have a Spohn DSL, 3 piece, and the only concern I have is my Y pipe will bang it when I go wot in first, but only if I am on a bumpy road. If it is nice and smooth when I go WOT, no problema.
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From: Lynnwood, WA (North of Seattle)
Originally Posted by rookiels1
Don't go with SLP lol I scrap on speed bumps all the time and I'm not lowered 
Seriously, I have QTP's and they are THE ONLY piece of my exhaust that doesn't scrape.........fairly easy to install and GREAT quality.
My buddy has an '02 Firehawk with Kooks (same design as QTP) and the GMMG and it sounds SOOOOOOOOO nice. 
You will love it. 
Not that you'll listen to anything I say but Stainless Works are the best for the money. Their catted y pipe is ok to use as well. The headers were only $599 from strano when I bought them and they have been confused for Kooks on the car. As far as performance my car speaks for itself. My torque is better than most with the same mods, Stainless Works will claim its due to their design and size. Its optimal for a stock cubed motor. I dont have any clearance troubles at all they tuck up very neatly and the installation was a peice of cake. They are a quality peice and the flanges are thicker than most as well. The y pipe comes in 5 peices and clamps. I had it welded after I put it together for $20. You can ask Tom Wong about them, he's seen them up close...lol as well as bobby on here wicked
I bought my loop from byunspeed and fits great and was $53, shipping is free and quick. Without the cats and my LT headers the car was so loud my wife heard me a mile away coming home, so cats are back on. I bought the FLP LT's off Brian and they are great, have slight clearance issues at work, real steep incline and flattens so they barely touch sometimes....so lowering is out of the question, unless I don't drive the car to work.
Last edited by rotwiler; Oct 5, 2005 at 01:19 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Originally Posted by Rottluver
But at least they were free.
Seriously, I have QTP's and they are THE ONLY piece of my exhaust that doesn't scrape.........fairly easy to install and GREAT quality. My buddy has an '02 Firehawk with Kooks (same design as QTP) and the GMMG and it sounds SOOOOOOOOO nice. You will love it.
Seriously, I have QTP's and they are THE ONLY piece of my exhaust that doesn't scrape.........fairly easy to install and GREAT quality.
My buddy has an '02 Firehawk with Kooks (same design as QTP) and the GMMG and it sounds SOOOOOOOOO nice. You will love it. 
I think you're going to find that your cats will be the limiting factor with regard to ground clearance - especially on the driver's side. Any of the Grotty clones (sorry, not up to speed anymore on the current LT offerings) will probably get you as much ground clearance as any LTs out there - the collectors tuck up pretty well. The Y-pipe is a different story, though.
If it were me, I'd just have the Y custom built (as suggested earlier). On the drivers side, you can use one of the Dr Gas frame clearance tubes right behind the collector, under the PITA crossmember, and probably fit a small RT-type cat behind it and after the bend. Clearance is better on the passenger side and you should be able to get a cat right behind the collector (the closer you get to the collector the more effective they'll be). Tie these together with something like a Flowmaster Y-collector mating to the OEM disconnect and you should have a nice setup. After its done just unbolt it and either have it coated or use some Eastwood high-temp header coating on it.
I know its out of your way, but Randy could hook you up with something like this without too much problem I would imagine.
If it were me, I'd just have the Y custom built (as suggested earlier). On the drivers side, you can use one of the Dr Gas frame clearance tubes right behind the collector, under the PITA crossmember, and probably fit a small RT-type cat behind it and after the bend. Clearance is better on the passenger side and you should be able to get a cat right behind the collector (the closer you get to the collector the more effective they'll be). Tie these together with something like a Flowmaster Y-collector mating to the OEM disconnect and you should have a nice setup. After its done just unbolt it and either have it coated or use some Eastwood high-temp header coating on it.
I know its out of your way, but Randy could hook you up with something like this without too much problem I would imagine.
Originally Posted by Fulton 1
I think you're going to find that your cats will be the limiting factor with regard to ground clearance - especially on the driver's side. Any of the Grotty clones (sorry, not up to speed anymore on the current LT offerings) will probably get you as much ground clearance as any LTs out there - the collectors tuck up pretty well. The Y-pipe is a different story, though.
If it were me, I'd just have the Y custom built (as suggested earlier). On the drivers side, you can use one of the Dr Gas frame clearance tubes right behind the collector, under the PITA crossmember, and probably fit a small RT-type cat behind it and after the bend. Clearance is better on the passenger side and you should be able to get a cat right behind the collector (the closer you get to the collector the more effective they'll be). Tie these together with something like a Flowmaster Y-collector mating to the OEM disconnect and you should have a nice setup. After its done just unbolt it and either have it coated or use some Eastwood high-temp header coating on it.
I know its out of your way, but Randy could hook you up with something like this without too much problem I would imagine.
If it were me, I'd just have the Y custom built (as suggested earlier). On the drivers side, you can use one of the Dr Gas frame clearance tubes right behind the collector, under the PITA crossmember, and probably fit a small RT-type cat behind it and after the bend. Clearance is better on the passenger side and you should be able to get a cat right behind the collector (the closer you get to the collector the more effective they'll be). Tie these together with something like a Flowmaster Y-collector mating to the OEM disconnect and you should have a nice setup. After its done just unbolt it and either have it coated or use some Eastwood high-temp header coating on it.
I know its out of your way, but Randy could hook you up with something like this without too much problem I would imagine.
My cats don't give me the clearance problem since they can be turned to the flatter side, but the flange with the clamps is the biggest issue. If I removed the flange and welded the Y or cats on I could get away with lowering the car 1 inch. A few things to remember though before you do em to save alot of hassle later. I made a air restrictor from a sheet of metal for the air tubed(otherwise it clicks and can burn out the valve), I suggest locking stage 8 bolts, I didn't do them and just bought some, so will need to put them on(also remember to do the anti seize compound on the header bolts. I have to tighten a couple bolts every month, so is a good idea to do it right the first time. Expect to go to the muffler shop to get everything lined up etc... Brian had to cut Y to fit the magnaflow and with SFC's the Y barely touched and rattled, so kitsap muffler welded and adjusted everything. No banging or rattles at all. You will need a tune, I don't care what anyone says, after the LT install I seen a 12 h.p gain before tune and A/F was 10:1, gas mileage sucked big time(like 6 mpg). After adjusting the A/F to 12.9:1 WOT and getting my LT fuel trims correct I seen over 24 h.p gain above the 12(can't remember exactly but was around 40 h.p total). Now I get around 18 to 19 mpg city/highway mixed even with the 3400 stall.
I am having Randy's build me a new exh system next week. He does GOOD work CHEAP! And I hate to agree with Blanco, 
but Stainless Works headers are good. It's the y-pipe that has issues. But they ALL do in some way.
As Fulton said, the 4 Grotty designs are the best. But cost more too. Kooks, QTPs, PPCs, & ....God, whatever the 4th one is. They tuck better & out-perform the others! From what I've seen the PaceSetters are the best 'cheap' header. But I have been seeing good things said about the new Edlebrocks....
but Stainless Works headers are good. It's the y-pipe that has issues. But they ALL do in some way.As Fulton said, the 4 Grotty designs are the best. But cost more too. Kooks, QTPs, PPCs, & ....God, whatever the 4th one is. They tuck better & out-perform the others! From what I've seen the PaceSetters are the best 'cheap' header. But I have been seeing good things said about the new Edlebrocks....
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From: San Antonio
DrEvyl-- i have the pacesetter lt's on my car with there ORY. i sit extremley low. i do scrape my y on speed bumps but no prob with the headers at all. i will be back in the everett area as of next week so if you want to look at my set up let me know.
Brad
Brad
