Car won't start
Car won't start So I hooked up my bootle warmer today, workes great! At anyrate drive the car around go out to garage to start it everything works, fuel pump runs all lights work. Starter does nothing. I checked the resistance coming out of the VATS wires connector under the steering wheel and it matches the key when in the on position.
I hooked up my shift light and Bottle wamer switch to the Power for the Traction Control. When I turn the Key to on the light dosen't come on and I can't turn the bottle warmer on. The gauges also don't do there bite test. I don't think this would affect it. Any ideas?
I hooked up my shift light and Bottle wamer switch to the Power for the Traction Control. When I turn the Key to on the light dosen't come on and I can't turn the bottle warmer on. The gauges also don't do there bite test. I don't think this would affect it. Any ideas?
In my years of trouble shooting electrical issues, I always look first at what changed. That is why I thought of the fuse. You connected stuff to it & now you have problems. If the fuse is good, disconnet the new stuff & see if it starts. But I'm think that stuff over loaded that circuit.....anyway, that's where I'd start my search.
Oh, and fuses are there to prtect the wiring from burning up. So maybe if this draws too much for that fuse, you need to use a bigger fuse or better yet, find a better power source.
All the fuese are fine. I can't figure it out, when I turn the Key to start it, No bite test of the gauges and the Shift light, bottle heater switch and TCS switch have no power, but the fuse for those are good. The dash lights work with the head the headlights. I disconnected the stuff and no change. Does this car have fusible links at all? Guess I am going to have to take it to the dealer.
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Verdad Gallardo I had something similar happen when I worked on my sons car. I blew one of the 50A fuses that powers up the starting circuit. They are square boxes. Try checking for power on both sides with the key on. I'll look in my books & see if something jumps out at me.
Mike,
According to the schematics the 50A IGN Fuse controls everything you are saying doesn't work anymore. Take a volt meter or test light & check for power on the WIPER, WINDOWS & RADIO FUSES in the fuse panel on the side of the dash. If you have no power there (with the key on of course) then I'd bet it's the big 50A fuse that went.
Let me know what you find....
Mark
According to the schematics the 50A IGN Fuse controls everything you are saying doesn't work anymore. Take a volt meter or test light & check for power on the WIPER, WINDOWS & RADIO FUSES in the fuse panel on the side of the dash. If you have no power there (with the key on of course) then I'd bet it's the big 50A fuse that went.
Let me know what you find....
Mark
Mark, want to hear a good duh story. i was pre heating my bottle, and it was pretty cold outside. Took about an hour or more, and car wasn't running. So, I try to start it and it won't start. I put charger on and let batt carge up. Car starts right up. Then a few weeks later I pre heat again, and forget for awhile and then put my charger on. later bottle is up to pressure. A little later I try starting no go. Put charger on high and let sit for awhile, still no go. Now I figured I finished off my battery? So, I have a bright idea, I'll go to auto parts and get a jump start charger. Bring my new jump charger and hook it up on highest jump amps. try starting car, no go. So, I am messing around checking everything for like hours. Then to make a longer story short, I remember, oh, I have to push the clutch in or it won't crank. starts right up. Wasn't a problem this time from the get go, duh. Never did check voltage?
Robert
Robert
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Dang sorry I was away for Christmas man. I would have said check the clutch switch and such. I would also check fusable links. Maybe you tapped into a circuit and over loaded one.
Good luck man. let us know what they find!
Good luck man. let us know what they find!
Yes, let us know. And I hope you either took out the nitrous or have a very understanding dealer. Many of them either won't touch a car with that **** on it, or rape you to fix it.
And that is funny Robert. Bet you felt stupid.
And that is funny Robert. Bet you felt stupid.
Originally Posted by Robert56
Mark, want to hear a good duh story. i was pre heating my bottle, and it was pretty cold outside. Took about an hour or more, and car wasn't running. So, I try to start it and it won't start. I put charger on and let batt carge up. Car starts right up. Then a few weeks later I pre heat again, and forget for awhile and then put my charger on. later bottle is up to pressure. A little later I try starting no go. Put charger on high and let sit for awhile, still no go. Now I figured I finished off my battery? So, I have a bright idea, I'll go to auto parts and get a jump start charger. Bring my new jump charger and hook it up on highest jump amps. try starting car, no go. So, I am messing around checking everything for like hours. Then to make a longer story short, I remember, oh, I have to push the clutch in or it won't crank. starts right up. Wasn't a problem this time from the get go, duh. Never did check voltage?
Robert
Robert
My dealer is great! Today Chevrolet, service is pretty good as far as GM goes, but great Mechanics! Turned out to be a fusible link... Tim the guy who fixed it was the Pro bracket champ at Bremerton maybe 2, 3 years ago, he has a blue 11 second cutlass great guy. I waited for him to do it as he knows how my setup works and he dosen't mind the modifications. Towed it there with an operational nitrous system. The Dealership loved it! They also noticed my rearend and asked all about it. Anyway Tow was free and they charged me 60.86. Not to bad, need to reroute the shift light and bottle warmer switch. I am going to use the lighter for the warmer and the power port for the shift light.