cam read???
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: San Antonio
cam read??? how do you read a cam and what does it mean can anone explain????
CamIntake Duration Exhaust DurationIntake Lift Exhaust Lift LSA
G2
224
224
.580
.580
114
like that????
thanks guys just trying to learn,
Brad
CamIntake Duration Exhaust DurationIntake Lift Exhaust Lift LSA
G2
224
224
.580
.580
114
like that????
thanks guys just trying to learn,
Brad
Cam 100.5
G2 = the manufactureer's model # for that grind
224/224 = the duration the intake/exhaust valves are open (recall there is 360* in a circle)
.580/.580 = how far the intake/exhaust valves are open at the peak of the lobes
114 = the separation in * between the intake & exhaust valve lobe centers
Now to Cam 101 for what that all means to you.
Everyone has their own opinions about what cam profile works best on an LS1 motor. And it really depends on your other mods, and what you plan to do with the car. The 224 cams are a good all-around cam. Good mid range power, and a bit of a lope at idle. You can get more power with another cam (like say at higher rpms for road racing) by playing with durations & separation.
I think LS1s like a little more exh duration, but that's my opinion. I also like a little less separation because I like a nasty idle. But those are harder to tune (especially with an auto) and do NOT play well with boost. And once you get near .600 lift, clearance with the pistions becomes an issue. As does your valve springs. The bigger your cam is, the better springs etc you need to make it work (or your valves float at hi rpms).
There is also the ramp rate to consider that many places don't talk much about. The faster you open that valve, the more air you can move. But it is also harder on the springs & lifters.
There is more to a cam selection than this. It's all about matching it up to YOUR car. If you want the best cam for your application, I'd call Ellis. Between him & Jimbob, they will pick out a grind that will make you & your car happy.
G2 = the manufactureer's model # for that grind
224/224 = the duration the intake/exhaust valves are open (recall there is 360* in a circle)
.580/.580 = how far the intake/exhaust valves are open at the peak of the lobes
114 = the separation in * between the intake & exhaust valve lobe centers
Now to Cam 101 for what that all means to you.
Everyone has their own opinions about what cam profile works best on an LS1 motor. And it really depends on your other mods, and what you plan to do with the car. The 224 cams are a good all-around cam. Good mid range power, and a bit of a lope at idle. You can get more power with another cam (like say at higher rpms for road racing) by playing with durations & separation.
I think LS1s like a little more exh duration, but that's my opinion. I also like a little less separation because I like a nasty idle. But those are harder to tune (especially with an auto) and do NOT play well with boost. And once you get near .600 lift, clearance with the pistions becomes an issue. As does your valve springs. The bigger your cam is, the better springs etc you need to make it work (or your valves float at hi rpms).
There is also the ramp rate to consider that many places don't talk much about. The faster you open that valve, the more air you can move. But it is also harder on the springs & lifters.
There is more to a cam selection than this. It's all about matching it up to YOUR car. If you want the best cam for your application, I'd call Ellis. Between him & Jimbob, they will pick out a grind that will make you & your car happy.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: San Antonio
what is a good cam to go with if i want a decent lobe that can be heard and good power. something along the lines of and z06 cam but alittle more aggresive.
Last edited by B-RAD2; Mar 21, 2006 at 11:58 AM.
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Cam 100.5
224/224 = the duration the intake/exhaust valves are open (recall there is 360* in a circle)
224/224 = the duration the intake/exhaust valves are open (recall there is 360* in a circle)
Engine 70 - Remedial Four Stroke Engines or "Four Strokes for Dummies"
The 224/224 refers to the number of degrees that the valves are open during one firing cycle of a 4 stroke engine. Since the engine rotates twice for every firing cycle, there are 720* of crankshaft rotation - of which the valves are open for 224*.
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Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
And for Mark, there's...
Engine 70 - Remedial Four Stroke Engines or "Four Strokes for Dummies"
The 224/224 refers to the number of degrees that the valves are open during one firing cycle of a 4 stroke engine. Since the engine rotates twice for every firing cycle, there are 720* of crankshaft rotation - of which the valves are open for 224*.
Engine 70 - Remedial Four Stroke Engines or "Four Strokes for Dummies"
The 224/224 refers to the number of degrees that the valves are open during one firing cycle of a 4 stroke engine. Since the engine rotates twice for every firing cycle, there are 720* of crankshaft rotation - of which the valves are open for 224*.
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by B-RAD2
how about a 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
would i need to change my springs
would i need to change my springs
Last edited by Tranzor_Z28; Mar 21, 2006 at 01:16 PM.
and just to clarify......
The 224* duration number is measured at .050" lift.
If I have this correct, and I'm not sure I do right now. The valve would be open for 224* of the 720* of crank rotation and open for 112* of the 360* of camshaft rotation, after the lifter has moved up off the base circle .050"
Is that right?
The 224* duration number is measured at .050" lift.
If I have this correct, and I'm not sure I do right now. The valve would be open for 224* of the 720* of crank rotation and open for 112* of the 360* of camshaft rotation, after the lifter has moved up off the base circle .050"
Is that right?
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
True, but the camshaft rotates at 1/2 the speed of the crank, so it's 360* for it. But what you're saying is the valves are actually open for 112* of the cam rotation. Which makes sense as I think about the lobes....never thought it out that far.
Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
Any cam swap you make, you will have to change the springs (if they're still stock). Unless of course you get a killer aftermarket cam with less than .500 lift @ .050 and ultra-slow ramp rates.
