93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

So I'm doing a bunch of stuff the vert to make it drivable while I wait until Trailblazer SS prices go down.

Part of it is a LS6 valley cover swap and the valley is disgusting looks like the bottom of a B-que with huge flakes.

So I clean it out with the shop vac and carb cleaner with rags in the cam holes. so then I take off a vavle cover (installing Edebrock LT's) and see the picture below. Granted the car hasn't been started in a month but it is bone dry in the valley and heads...

I have always ran mobile 1 since I bought it with 55k on it now has 72k. I'm wondering if there was a break in the original pcv system it was pretty brittle taking it off. now the whole motor is full of F(*&*(&(*G dirt. If I would have known this before spending all this damn money on the car I would have traded it in on a 01+ WS6.

Anyone know a good cleaner that will help without knocking the crude loose (which scares me as alot of it is pretty hard obsidian like) Or should I just start saving for a new short block??? Then I'll need to decide on a 402 with cheap heads or a 346 with expensive heads....... DAMN DAMN this isn't the only problem going on right now but the most worrisome...

Thanks or reading my rant!!!

Bobby

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Damn man, it looks like the first owner never changed the oil... and ran Q-state.

Ryan

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

THAT IS EXACTLY MY FIRST THOUGHT. I've only seen qstate do that in the past. You'd think 20k of mobile one would have cleaned it up. The oil isn't even all that dirty in between changes every 5k....

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

That is nasty looking!

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

I'd just take the head off and clean it up.

Does the other head look the same way?

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

DISGUSTING!!! I recall back in the old days we'd fill the motor with 4 qts of oil + 1 qt of diesel fuel & let it idle for 1/2 hr. THat should clean all the crud out. Then fill it again with oil & run it for another 15 mintues to clean the diesel out & drain & fill one more time. Worth a try.....

Rockin C Racing

iTrader: (3)

I've done the diesel bit before and it worked pretty well. Not perfect but a whole lot better that the above pictures. It is worth a try.

tjwong

Just remember if you use a solvent or diesel to dissolve all that crude, its all going to go into the oil and into the pan. The filter will trap a lot of it but be aware it won't get it all.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

And I think you wnat the engine warm when you start this process so the crud "melts". Otherwise it can get stuck in the return passages & journals.

TJ - can you design a cog belt system for my car? I'm strapping a D-1SC @ ~ 12psi on it soon & Ellis is worried we'll have to tighten the 8 rib so far it could stress the front main bearing.

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

HMM I might try the deisel thing. Although at this point I'm seriously considering parting the mods out and buying something else. The car was just starting to get where I like it. But I hate dropping 6k into a motor setup for a convertible. Its a great cruiser but I'd rather be rolling a 00 FRC instead or a certain 388 SS for the same money..... What a jackass the prior owner was

This just sucks cause I have headers, LS6 intake, T56 conversion, ls6 valley conversion, interior half converted to new ebony, new top, ss hood, RK front spoiler, Bilstien/BMR suspension, SFC's etc etc etc all installed or waiting to be intalled. not too mention the new TTII's. I was going to install all this and start on the real mods seems hard to backtrack get it running then get rid of it...

Anyone try Seafoam in the oil??

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

I'm sure it does, if it was just the heads I'd just order some Darts 205's or some TSP LS6 heads. But that crude is still all in the motor. I am thinking of trying the diesel or Seafoam to get it cleaned up then the heads and cam with a new oil pump etc etc. I just hate to put a setup like that on an engine with covered in Dirt. That would clean up alot of it though, I could probably drop the pan and change the rod bolts and clean the pan up too.... maybe drive this thing next year sometime

tjwong

I would have to see how it all mounts in your engine bay. Is there an instruction manual for the blower kit I can download. Or you can email me some pictures of the blower mounted on the engine and how the belt run is made up. I will have a junk 4.8L truck engine here that I can mock up the parts, but it won't be cheap.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Sorry for the hi-jack Bobby....there are some pics of the blower mounted on the front of the engine on my website in my link TJ. Look at the blower album, it should give you an idea. The belt is short, only about 40". Maybe the best thing would be for me & Ellis to bring it down to your shop for a dyno session after the new blower goes on?

Poik

Wow that sucks. My dad told me about doing the diesel thing, and he also told me he used to do that with liquid wrench.. I thought he was kidding for a long time, just wrote it off as one of his crazy ramblings lol. The person I bought my new Volvo motor from ran some type of solvent through the engine before I bought it, and it turned out looking like this:

And that's after 500 running hours.. Works pretty well and most likely worth your effort if you ask me. Just don't forget to change the oil afterwards

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

No worries, this is mostly a bitch thread anyways

If you make it down to the shop let me know we can go grab some lunch, I'd love to see the car on the rollers too. Might be sporting the Bimmer though

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

Well on the advice of Mr Wong I'm going to run some dino oil for a few months changing it every 2000 miles. Then I'll take a look under the valve cover, if it looks a little better I may try a solvent a couple of times.

I just don't want to throw alot of parts at a shortblock full of dirt so this will curb my mods to bolt ons which is probably a good thing...

NVME

iTrader: (1)

*Continue jack*

Be careful, Mark. That belt actually needs to slip a little bit if you're going to drive it on the street at all. My buddy went to a cog set up and he spun the balancer off the crank. He had a D1SC at 20 lbs or so on a forged LT1. He bought a new crank with a big block snout and now runs a 12 rib at 16 lbs and a little juce. Good luck.

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

I think you'd look good rolling in a Formula on TTIIs. Hell, I'll even through in a sway bar!

Poik

Naw even better would be a SOM WS.6 rolling on Fikses!

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

Very true, but its been done before