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power problem???

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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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So heres the thing. I have noticed that my battery guage is lower than "normal" . I also notice at night when I use my blinkers, everytime they tick on and off the lighs flicker with the ticks, and the power needle moves with every tick.. same if I hit the brakes hard at night, the headlights dim for a second. I think replacing the alternator is a start, unless someone has any other ideas. I dont know. I need some help.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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I guess no one has any suggestions? It puzzles my mechanic too.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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i would say its either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator dieing.

run down to a local napa or other auto parts store and the probably can test both while they are still in the car.

any issue just starting the car or is it only when you have a a big load on it
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 01:21 AM
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takes a sec longer than it used to. there is some hesitation starting.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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Check your battery connections first.
Robert
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jester1614
i would say its either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator dieing.

run down to a local napa or other auto parts store and the probably can test both while they are still in the car.

any issue just starting the car or is it only when you have a a big load on it
What he said........everytime I have had a battery, alternator or both go bad, those were the symptoms......
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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Thanks all, I am going to replace the alternator soon, but I will see if I can get the stuff tesed while its still on the car.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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So I went to shmucks and they plugged in their thingies to check the charging system and said it was fine, and then plugged in under the steering wheel and it was fine too. But I know that somthing is wrong. Rott you said that those were the symptoms of the alt goin out. maybe I should just replace it... I dunno... If anyone is looking for a 350 that bored out 30.. whatever that means, and it comes with oilpans, pumps and all that the motor is assembled except for that, and it has pistons rings, and all that in it too. PM me if you are interested. I have contact info for the guy selling it. $1000 or less you can talk him down.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Did you check for loose connections? at the batt and the alt and acc.
Robert
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Lunchbox01_chris
Rott you said that those were the symptoms of the alt goin out. maybe I should just replace it... I dunno...
It has been my experience that losing power with stuff like turn signals, dimming lights and the like is usually the alternator no longer charging the battery adequately. Not saying that is the case EVERY time but more often then not.......and one of those parts places told me that my battery and alt were great the last time my alternator died on me.......mid trip in the middle of nowhere.

If you have the money and can't find anything else, it prolly couldn't hurt. Your car is a 1998 yes? That is an 8-9 year old alt, it's past time.........other options include spending the $$ to take it to the dealership for a looksie.....not MY first choice but it is an option.
Chances are you will have to replace the battery as well if the alt has gone bad as the battery will most likely be low on power in the cells (or whatever the technology is) from trying to maintain power due to low/no charge from the alt.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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cool. I plan to buy a new alt, and a new battery then. Thanks!
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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PUT A BATTERY IN IT FIRST.

Trust me.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
PUT A BATTERY IN IT FIRST.

Trust me.
What Don said. Did they "load test" your battery? Sounds like it's going away to me. That is how mine acted when it was dying. An easy way to check your alternator is start the car & disconnect the battery. If it still runs the alt is working.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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A volt meter is prob the best diagnostic tool for charging issues, for average Joe. When my batt was dieing, under load the voltage would drop, no load and voltage would come back up. Was just a weak old battery and the alternator was having a hard time keeping up with the load of acc and batt needing recharge. So, like was suggested, check the batt out first. When the auto parts guys tested, likely it was showing fine as the alt was doing it's job and bringing voltage up, but if you had the lights and other stuff on prob would have dropped voltage? Take the batt in by itself to Shmucks and they will do a load test, and at that time you can check to make sure no loose connections.
Robert
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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okay then.. I will do a batt test first, especilly since its free. then take it from there.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Lunchbox01_chris
cool. I plan to buy a new alt, and a new battery then. Thanks!
Yeah, I would listen to the guys below.......better safe then wasting money.

I was just relating my experiences and trying to imply that it was a good possibility. Follow their advice and you may get lucky and not have to buy both.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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okay so heres the update.. I started my car and removed battery power, and it remained running fine. I then shut it off and re applied battery power... My car was hurting then. It rean horribly close to dieing(probable because of the way I did the power thing) I hen took the battery to schwab and they ran it and said it was 100% okay. SO.. I still dont know what wrong since the alternator test was fine, and the battery is good. What next?
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
PUT A BATTERY IN IT FIRST.

Trust me.
.....
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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So you took the battery out and it ran fine. You put it back in and it ran like ??

Sounds like you have your answer.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Loose connection somewhere? Time to find a real diagnostic mechanic.
Robert
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