MMM meet Electron Blue Metallic!
06-18-2009, 08:25 PM
#81
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well.... long story short... a girl swipped up the side of my car hitting the front bumper cover, front drivers side fender, drivers side door, and drivers mirror. Those panels had to get repainted reguardless and I had been thinking of painting it another color anyhow so I figured now was my chance. One of my good friends dad owns a very well respected body shop. So I ended up taking apart the car and doing ALL the prep work for paint, of course with the painter watching over me to make sure I did a good job.
So, they fixed every dent and scratch in the car, fixed a dent that I had been meaning to get fixed for a while, and painted it for an extra $1300 on my part, that also included a new outer tie rod and front blinker. I got all parts at cost so needless to say I got a crazy good hookup.
They said the paint job would have been around $6k if I didnt do any of the prep or destruction of the car.
So, they fixed every dent and scratch in the car, fixed a dent that I had been meaning to get fixed for a while, and painted it for an extra $1300 on my part, that also included a new outer tie rod and front blinker. I got all parts at cost so needless to say I got a crazy good hookup.
They said the paint job would have been around $6k if I didnt do any of the prep or destruction of the car.
06-19-2009, 01:10 AM
#84
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Thanks alot man! im extremely happy with it, wouldnt change the color for anything.
Well, I read a tutorial on how to use a point and shoot so ive been playing with my settings and I downloaded a free version of GIMP so hopefully ill have alot better pictures sometime next week or this weekend... gotta figure out how to use this GIMP software first
06-19-2009, 02:17 AM
#85
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I forgot to mention that if the camera has the 10 second or 2 second delay for the shutter (you know, the thing so you can run and get into the photo before the camera takes the pic) use that so the camera has time to stop wobbling from you pressing the button down.
Here's a sample night shot I took a few years ago around Christmas time:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2197/...e16d0832_b.jpg
06-19-2009, 10:31 AM
#86
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well.... long story short... a girl swipped up the side of my car hitting the front bumper cover, front drivers side fender, drivers side door, and drivers mirror. Those panels had to get repainted reguardless and I had been thinking of painting it another color anyhow so I figured now was my chance. One of my good friends dad owns a very well respected body shop. So I ended up taking apart the car and doing ALL the prep work for paint, of course with the painter watching over me to make sure I did a good job.
So, they fixed every dent and scratch in the car, fixed a dent that I had been meaning to get fixed for a while, and painted it for an extra $1300 on my part, that also included a new outer tie rod and front blinker. I got all parts at cost so needless to say I got a crazy good hookup.
They said the paint job would have been around $6k if I didnt do any of the prep or destruction of the car.
So, they fixed every dent and scratch in the car, fixed a dent that I had been meaning to get fixed for a while, and painted it for an extra $1300 on my part, that also included a new outer tie rod and front blinker. I got all parts at cost so needless to say I got a crazy good hookup.
They said the paint job would have been around $6k if I didnt do any of the prep or destruction of the car.
Thanks for the re-update....I did read the story on the how and why, but its nice to know the total for future refrence.....and yes, thats was a hell of a deal and well worth the effort on your part with the prep!.....
Now you do know that the car has become bigger than it self, and we absolutly MUST have some great, quality shots, polished and in a nice backdrop for wallpaper.....so don't take offence as we bug you for pics for awhile!....
she is beautiful!!....
06-19-2009, 12:18 PM
#88
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Thanks for the re-update....I did read the story on the how and why, but its nice to know the total for future refrence.....and yes, thats was a hell of a deal and well worth the effort on your part with the prep!.....
Now you do know that the car has become bigger than it self, and we absolutly MUST have some great, quality shots, polished and in a nice backdrop for wallpaper.....so don't take offence as we bug you for pics for awhile!....
she is beautiful!!....
Now you do know that the car has become bigger than it self, and we absolutly MUST have some great, quality shots, polished and in a nice backdrop for wallpaper.....so don't take offence as we bug you for pics for awhile!....
she is beautiful!!....
-2 second delay
-tripod
-ISO at 100-200
-play with photoshop
-play with the modes in different lighting
-find more places to shoot
06-19-2009, 12:36 PM
#89
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Like Photoshop? Not really. It depends on what you want to do. Irfanview is good enough for most of my photo editing. (Though if I have complex stuff to do, I use a scripting tool that I won't get into due here to complexity)
Lower ISO = less noise and a little sharper, usually. (Though lower ISO could also mean a numerically lower f-stop which with many lenses means blurrier). High ISO is often necessary though, at least in my experience.
Lower ISO = less noise and a little sharper, usually. (Though lower ISO could also mean a numerically lower f-stop which with many lenses means blurrier). High ISO is often necessary though, at least in my experience.
06-19-2009, 02:35 PM
#90
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Like Photoshop? Not really. It depends on what you want to do. Irfanview is good enough for most of my photo editing. (Though if I have complex stuff to do, I use a scripting tool that I won't get into due here to complexity)
Lower ISO = less noise and a little sharper, usually. (Though lower ISO could also mean a numerically lower f-stop which with many lenses means blurrier). High ISO is often necessary though, at least in my experience.
Lower ISO = less noise and a little sharper, usually. (Though lower ISO could also mean a numerically lower f-stop which with many lenses means blurrier). High ISO is often necessary though, at least in my experience.
06-19-2009, 02:38 PM
#91
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No need for a really great camera. Mine is just a Canon Powershot A570 IS (was about $150), and I can take really good shots, even at night with a tripod or box to sit the camera on. Sometimes I balance the camera on top of my water bottle.
I forgot to mention that if the camera has the 10 second or 2 second delay for the shutter (you know, the thing so you can run and get into the photo before the camera takes the pic) use that so the camera has time to stop wobbling from you pressing the button down.
Here's a sample night shot I took a few years ago around Christmas time:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2197/...e16d0832_b.jpg
I forgot to mention that if the camera has the 10 second or 2 second delay for the shutter (you know, the thing so you can run and get into the photo before the camera takes the pic) use that so the camera has time to stop wobbling from you pressing the button down.
Here's a sample night shot I took a few years ago around Christmas time:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2197/...e16d0832_b.jpg
06-19-2009, 03:36 PM
#93
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The blue looks way better...
High ISO works better in low light. ISO is light sensitivity. But higher ISO is noisier. Even good cameras are noise at ISO 2000. Actually, 2000 is weird. Most SLRs that go high will do 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, etc. But anyway, if you need the high ISO then you need it, but it's better to get around it with long shutter times when possible.
High ISO works better in low light. ISO is light sensitivity. But higher ISO is noisier. Even good cameras are noise at ISO 2000. Actually, 2000 is weird. Most SLRs that go high will do 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, etc. But anyway, if you need the high ISO then you need it, but it's better to get around it with long shutter times when possible.
06-19-2009, 04:04 PM
#94
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haha I know it man, MMM is a great color that gives off a great deep shine but it never really did it for me. I like to be different I guess so I went with a non factory color, IMO EBM owns MMM sorry haha.
06-19-2009, 04:04 PM
#95
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I'm not photographer particularly, but I can tell you some basics.
High ISO = fast speed, so there is a lot of noise in the photo, but you can take pics of like... sports and stuff without the shot being blurry.
Low ISO = slow speed, so if you wiggle, the picture is blurry.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds, and the same is basically true of it as what I said above. I prefer changing the shutter speed instead.
The main difference between it and ISO is that a fast shutter speed = dark photo because the lens isn't open long. A slow shutter speed = light photo because the lens can be open like 15 seconds or something ridiculous.
High aperture = like F8.0 = the camera tries to get everything in the shot to be in focus
Low aperture = like F3.2 or lower = the camera will blur the background. This can be good if taking a picture of a person close by and wanting the background out of focus, but I generally haven't had luck with it when taking pics of cars, because the front end will be in focus, and rear end blurry, and I don't like that.
The exposure goes from -2 to 2, and honestly, I consider it a waste of time. I haven't found a good use in changing that.
I typically leave the ISO on 200, and just adjust the shutter speed instead when I do shots in low-light. I never use manual mode in bright light. I sometimes use aperture priority mode in extremely bright sunlight, because in automatic mode, the aperture is F8.0, which can sometimes bring up UV spots or something in my camera, particularly when shooting white cars. I change it to F5.0 to get rid of those unusual spots. Looks like a dirty lens, but the lens is clean, and only happens in extremely hot sunny weather at car shows.
I got my tripod at SAM'S Club for $14. It's a very nice lightweight aluminum one with a level in it. Very satisfied with it, it holds my little camera just fine. Probably wouldn't work too well with a big SLR expensive camera, but it's like a 2 ft tall to 5 ft tall tripod, so it's good. A box or water bottle works better if you want a really low shot taken 6 inches off the ground of course.
High ISO = fast speed, so there is a lot of noise in the photo, but you can take pics of like... sports and stuff without the shot being blurry.
Low ISO = slow speed, so if you wiggle, the picture is blurry.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds, and the same is basically true of it as what I said above. I prefer changing the shutter speed instead.
The main difference between it and ISO is that a fast shutter speed = dark photo because the lens isn't open long. A slow shutter speed = light photo because the lens can be open like 15 seconds or something ridiculous.
High aperture = like F8.0 = the camera tries to get everything in the shot to be in focus
Low aperture = like F3.2 or lower = the camera will blur the background. This can be good if taking a picture of a person close by and wanting the background out of focus, but I generally haven't had luck with it when taking pics of cars, because the front end will be in focus, and rear end blurry, and I don't like that.
The exposure goes from -2 to 2, and honestly, I consider it a waste of time. I haven't found a good use in changing that.
I typically leave the ISO on 200, and just adjust the shutter speed instead when I do shots in low-light. I never use manual mode in bright light. I sometimes use aperture priority mode in extremely bright sunlight, because in automatic mode, the aperture is F8.0, which can sometimes bring up UV spots or something in my camera, particularly when shooting white cars. I change it to F5.0 to get rid of those unusual spots. Looks like a dirty lens, but the lens is clean, and only happens in extremely hot sunny weather at car shows.
I got my tripod at SAM'S Club for $14. It's a very nice lightweight aluminum one with a level in it. Very satisfied with it, it holds my little camera just fine. Probably wouldn't work too well with a big SLR expensive camera, but it's like a 2 ft tall to 5 ft tall tripod, so it's good. A box or water bottle works better if you want a really low shot taken 6 inches off the ground of course.
06-19-2009, 04:09 PM
#96
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As far as software goes, Irfanview is highly recommended in the design world as far as free software goes. Adobe used to sell (and may still sell) Photoshop Elements for about $30 or $40, and it has most of the good stuff in it. Jasc or Corel Paint Shop Pro is about that price, but is better for making graphics rather than editing an "ok" photo into a "good" one like Photoshop is great at.
06-19-2009, 04:33 PM
#97
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ISO is not speed. It's the light sensitivity of the sensor.
Shutter speed: Obvious
ISO: light sensitivity, higher = noisier
f stop (aperature): How much light the lens lets in, affects sharpness and depth of field. Lower number = brighter picture, better in low light, less depth of field, sometimes blurrier picture depending on the lens.
Edit: by the way, a lens with a large aperature (numerically low f/stop value) is sometimes called a "fast" lens because it lets in more light and often times allows you to use faster shutter speeds as a result.
Shutter speed: Obvious
ISO: light sensitivity, higher = noisier
f stop (aperature): How much light the lens lets in, affects sharpness and depth of field. Lower number = brighter picture, better in low light, less depth of field, sometimes blurrier picture depending on the lens.
Edit: by the way, a lens with a large aperature (numerically low f/stop value) is sometimes called a "fast" lens because it lets in more light and often times allows you to use faster shutter speeds as a result.
Last edited by dragonrage; 06-19-2009 at 04:39 PM.
