whiteheartbeat

iTrader: (4)

Just do an internet search you'll find alot more useful info then this site offers! Most people that paint in their own garage just end up spraying the floor down with water right before you start to spray. Painting/sealing the floor isn't going to remove dust. There is always some dust but most things you can just get rid off when you cut/buff. I'm doing my whole car right now and all i have is concrete garage floor and i didn't even really clean too much and i'm getting good results! Anyways good luck man!!!!

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

yeah first thought of us all but we dont own the place so were not makeing any perminant mods to the building

deathbydisplacement

iTrader: (3)

i have painted a number of cars in homemade booths as well as professional booths. The best thing to do is wet the floor and keep it damp. It will keep dust down and catch alot of trash floating around do to the poor enviroment.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

will do, thanks buddy.

Anybody have any tips for actually spraying the products?

badazzta00

iTrader: (14)

My buddy who just painted my car has a full paint booth and shop on his property. It just came out of the booth a few days ago. He has a regular job, and does it as a hobby, but he's used to work at a paint and body shop. His work is professional quality and both he and I couldn't be happier the way my WS6 came out. It took us a little over 3 weeks(with more than a few all-nighters). He cut, buffed, and polished it. He did quite a bit more, but he knows more than I do about the actual process. The Trans Am WS6 was black, but he primered it, sprayed the Copper basecoat, and sprayed 8 coats of Copper Kandy and 4 coats of clear. He's got pics of the project from the very beginning, to the final cut, buff and polish on his camera. Here's just a few of about 100 pics that I have on my camera:

I decided to go with a Copper Kandy w/maple Pearl






I know this is not the color your planning on, but I just wanted to show you the quality of work my buddy did in his private paint booth that he had built on his property.

userws6

might want to keep in mind that what your spraying is extremely flammable and heaters, lighting ect is a possible ignition source depending on your air circulation.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

WOW I can see why you cant be happier lol

blades11b

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ yeah wow at first i wasnt so sure about that color then seeing it in the sun it looks amazing i can only imagine how it looks in person. im thinking of going the route of painting my own car myself so im definately keeping track of this. im also gonna suggest wetting the floor thats why my father told me to do and hes been in th auto repair and body business for 30+ years

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

Is there any difference in painting the metal surfaces of a car vs the plastics? ie the front fenders, bumpers etc.? these will be removed form the car for all product spraying.

Ive got a pretty good working knowledge of it already but state you opinion, all info is greatly valued, the more the merryer!

SPDMETL

Is static a factor with the plastic ?

Reject

iTrader: (24)

so final decision was no on
plastic walls?

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

yes on plastic walls and ceiling, no on plastic floor as it will collect the overspray and become sticky and tacky.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

How much of each product did you get and do you have any results?

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

Ive done this back when I was a kid... it's not worth it. Just find an independently owned shop that will rent you their booth. $100 give or take is the going rate. The quality will be much better for you in the end and it's not such a pain in the ***. Leave the garage sprays for doorjambs and engine compartments IMO.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

OK, absolutely NO heat or flame sources in the booth and also make sure that paint doesnt come in contact with a fan motor. Each of those can result in combustion. Also even if your floor is painted, water will keep dust and debris from flying around, sooo...WET THE FLOOR, it'll also keep dry overspray from flying around. Painting metal and plastics will be the same after they're primered. Don't try to 'bake' the paints after they're applied, again you may cause combustion, and causing a change in conditions can alter how the paint turns out (milky, hazy). You should make sure you paint on a day when the weather is in your favor 70 to 85 degrees and the lower the humidity the better. Warmer days = more thinner and cooler days = less. Also, make sure you screen the paint going into the gun's cup, not the paint going into the mixing cup. When you re-wet the floor, use low pressure on the hose and hold it horizontal and close to the ground to avoid spalshing/splatter, you might need to re-wet the floor between coats. If your color coats come out with orange peel or debris in it, you CAN wet sand it with 800 grit AFTER it dries well. If you get a run, take a razor blade and run the blade backwards along a strip of 400 grit sandpaper (to create a curl on one side) and use that curled side to gently scrape the run down a bit to make it easier to wet sand flat before clearing. Have a good time with your DIY painting!

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

wow i didnt realize this thread was almost a year old. we never ended up trying it due to the owner of the car changed his plans, although my car is getting a little ragged lol