Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

Paint guns and supplies?

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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Default Paint guns and supplies?

looking to buy the basics. going to try to tackle a small area i need fixed on my own car and see where i go from there.

what are good brands to get. DO NOT want crazy nice stuff that i have to sell body parts for.

i was thinking around 100-150 total for every thing?

i already have an 80 gal compressor.
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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anyone??
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 07:59 AM
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really? nobody has any help here?
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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Hey mane, I've been a professional painter for 20 years and I can tell you you won't get anywhere with $150. First off you and your gun are the most important factors here. You need to know how ( books,friends, video) and your gun needs to be pretty damn good. Sata and Iwata are THE best IMO but are 5-700$ guns. Devilbiss, Sharpe, and Binks are some of the better less expensive ones. To learn but not have a great finish go for a Harbor Freight gun or paint supply store special. See if you have a Carquest Auto paint store in your area. They have cheap guns ( 40$) (set of 3 for $100) but they are cheap and pretty much disposable, but you can learn on them. Again your finish (end result) will not be as slick as a more expensive gun. Carquest can also fix you up with you paint and clearcoats as well. Tasco Auto color is also a paint supply co. that is nationwide. PPG and DuPont have cheaper lines of product yo can use and gget great results. Nason is DuPonts lne of cheap and Shop Line is PPGs bttom end line. YOu can use a good quality spray can primer for small areas. Sand with 220-320 for paint and 36 grit-180 grit for body work and such ( bondo).Then go over with the finer 220-320 prior to primer and paint. Let me know if I can help anymore.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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yeah, if i have the nack for painting, i will be going for a sata gun or comparable. for right now i just wanna see how it goes. the local paint shop wants to sell me the shop line paint, and they have a 3 gun kit that includes an air reg. it goes for 168 there, which sounds like they want more than it worth.

all i'm going to do is do my driver rear qtr. it's got peeeling paint at the very rear of it. from what i under stand i need to block the entire panel to get the clear to look right. want to do this here in the next few months, so im researching now. thanks for the help.

EDIT: that 3 gun kit is a vapor brand. if that helps at all?
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by shtnfrds
yeah, if i have the nack for painting, i will be going for a sata gun or comparable. for right now i just wanna see how it goes. the local paint shop wants to sell me the shop line paint, and they have a 3 gun kit that includes an air reg. it goes for 168 there, which sounds like they want more than it worth.

all i'm going to do is do my driver rear qtr. it's got peeeling paint at the very rear of it. from what i under stand i need to block the entire panel to get the clear to look right. want to do this here in the next few months, so im researching now. thanks for the help.

EDIT: that 3 gun kit is a vapor brand. if that helps at all?
Yep that's the budget kit I was thinking of. Tell tham to give you shop cost on it if they can. Should be closer to a bill -125$ or go to Harbor Freight. About the same quality. You don't need to block the panel at all. That is for straightening out bad body work. You want to DA sand ( dual action sander) the entire body with 320 and feather all the edges you feel where the clear is liifting. Basically when you can't feel that peeling edge you're ready to paint. Feather the paint from the good paint towards the peeling paint. In other words your sander should start sutting down the good paint to help bring it down to the level the flaked paint is and they meet in the middle with a smooth edge. PREP is the key to a great finish. If you can feel it it is going to show up ten times worse after paint.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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ahhh, ok. so no need to block it unless i do body work. then it's best to just spray another good coat of base right? and then clear?

i guess i should have mentioned that the base AND clear are peeling, leaving just the factory primer exposed.
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