Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

DIY Budget flat black...

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Old 05-04-2010, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Indrid_Cold
That SEM stuff apparently sprays best through 1.3 or 1.4mm heads. Is that what yours has?

Also- the SEM: is it a satin black or a matte/flat black? I'm not a fan of satin- the "kinda" shiny "kinda" flat appearance. Just looks like a half-assed Makko job IMHO. I like either completely flat or very glossy. No in between
1.4. i agree with ya on the satin. i dunno about the sem, i just went with flat black primer. it was cheap and didnt look all that bad. but that was a mud truck so im sure ur lookin for somethin a little better
Old 05-04-2010, 05:26 PM
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^Well, one could always use sealer- sprays smoother than primer and doesn't absorb moisture, plus its pretty cheap. Don't know how it'll hold up to direct sunlight though.
Old 05-04-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Indrid_Cold
^Well, one could always use sealer- sprays smoother than primer and doesn't absorb moisture, plus its pretty cheap. Don't know how it'll hold up to direct sunlight though.
i never thought about that. i just the primer on there cause i had intentions of painting it. but considering the cost and amount of work, it looked good enough to run through a mud pit. im sure the sealer would be better than primer
Old 05-04-2010, 05:36 PM
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^Yeah, possibly. Its not too expensive either. Hell, I might just go that route lol. Of course, that means I'll have to prime and block the whole truck too... decisions decisions.
Old 05-04-2010, 05:40 PM
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what kinda truck are you painting?
Old 05-04-2010, 05:53 PM
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The SEM paint is UV resistant, guarenteed not to chalk up & also fairly marr/chip resistant. If you dont want a glossy paint job thats gonna cost a decent amount & want paint thats gonna hold up & not fade in the sun just get the SEM paint.

Trust me it look better than a half assed Macco job, LOL. But prep is 90% of how it'll turn out, so do shitty prep & any paint will look like a cheapo Macco paint job, LOL.

There is a thread on here with a murdered out Formula painted with the SEM paint if you wanna get a good look at it.
Old 05-04-2010, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ls6firebird
what kinda truck are you painting?
'90 GMC Sonoma, single cab, short wheel base.

BIG MIKE- Oh okay, I know the car you're talking about! I'll probably be going that route then.
Old 05-06-2010, 03:05 PM
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SEM Hotrod Black, its a satin color but very clean looking. You have to spray the last coat like you are spraying a silver metallic to get it to look this dull otherwise it will look shinnier.

Old 05-06-2010, 11:29 PM
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^Hmm, interesting. You spray it dry on the last coat? Any worries about it chalking or whatever its called?
Old 05-07-2010, 07:19 AM
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Says in the product description "chalk resistant"
Old 05-07-2010, 10:28 AM
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roll on???
NO NO NO

Trust me the cheapest and best way to paint a car is the method I use on stock cars. Ive also done my old beater 1987 Cavalier in white for probably 40bucks useing this method. Look in to this for sure.
Do you have a compressor or garage?

heres pics of the car before and after:





So what I did was was sand it down well, to go cleap use a couple scotch brite style pads, cheaper and last longer then sandpaper (the car was rollerd when I bought it so thats why I tryed the 40buck spray job). Buy yourself a 20 dollar spray gun (I got mine at a place called Princess Auto in canada, used the regulator on my little compressor and turned it down to 35-40psi constant pressure. I bought 1 pint of tremclad (rustoleam or cleap brand whatever) rust paint primer (like 8 bucks) and 2 pints of white gloss rust paint ($15) or so. And a gallon of mineral spirits. The mineral spirits were to wipe clean the car before paint, clean the cheap gun, and you will also use it to mix into the paint they say 1 part spirits to 5 parts paint. It takes a while to dry sometimes a day or 2 but will look 10 times better then spray cans and is way cheaper. Were a good respirator,,, if not at least don't breath in the paint and do it in a well ventilated area and use a premium quality dust mask... no protection is dumb as A$$ and will clog your lungs with dripping paint,,, im sure you know this but for anyone else reading or want to try this. So you see the car above,, I bought it in running condition for 140$ then painted it this way, welded the floor up, changed some interior stuff over to new sunbird stuff I had left over from another car added the spoiler and side skirts and then sold it for 900$ (made about $600 or so plus drove it for a winter)
If you want a satin look,, mix a small can of flat black and gloss black together,,,no worry about it dulling then.

here is another great link if you want to add hardner and go one step better if you use a gloss paint
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/bo...paint-job.html

Last edited by BCKNBLK; 05-07-2010 at 10:39 AM.
Old 05-07-2010, 06:30 PM
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Nah, I'm not even minutely interested in Satin black- definately want a matte finish, but a smooth matte finish. As I said before, IMHO, satin black looks like half-assed single stage. Completely matte or completely glossy are the only way to me lol.

BTW, that came out pretty damn good for a $40 paint job! Oh, and don't worry- I have a 3M resporator and will be buying plenty of red Scotch brites . I agree- they are MUCH easier to use and last longer than sandpaper. Doesn't hurt that they're cheap either.
Old 05-07-2010, 06:57 PM
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Roll on truck bed liner the entire thing and spray it with a cheapo texture gun.

I just did a "party bus" with UPOL's "raptor" kit it took a solid two gallons to do it, and I would get two gallons to do the truck.

Just patch everything up, this stuff is incredibly tough and easy to use, just prep with 80 grip, degreaser, scotch bright, pressure wash, and go! The kit comes with a texture gun. If it ever fades, just hit it with a gallon of roll on paint.

I would do it again any day!

Also NO it isnt heavy... it only weighs like 15lbs (for some reason everyone thinks this stuff weights a **** ton)
Old 05-07-2010, 08:30 PM
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^Yeah, but is it a smooth finish or rough? Not looking for a gritty surface.
Old 05-07-2010, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Indrid_Cold
^Hmm, interesting. You spray it dry on the last coat? Any worries about it chalking or whatever its called?
Nah no chalking, you still spray it in the flash window so it can addhere good to the previous coat. Its easy to clean as well.

I think the other way around i think satin looks better than straight up flat black. Flat black looks like they left it primered because they did not have the money for the paint. Plus i would think it would chalk much easier do to its pourous nature.
Old 05-07-2010, 09:43 PM
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Aye, I follow you. I admit, I'm pretty unorthodox in my tastes.
Old 05-08-2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Indrid_Cold
Aye, I follow you. I admit, I'm pretty unorthodox in my tastes.
In the end its up to you but if you are going to do it and be proud of it go with something that is proven.
Old 05-08-2010, 03:31 PM
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^Will do.

As a side note, I'm probably gonna spray my bumper with the flat black rattle cans I have sitting around. The bumper is grayish in color and just looks WAY out of place on a black truck lol.

So here's the plan for the future- Get about 2 quarts of that SEM Hot-rod black in addition to reducer and whatnot, red sctoch brite everything, clean/degrease, mask, repeat clean/degrease as well as tack cloth, spray, cure, get some bed liner and do my bed lol. Will probably get my windows tinted too.

Last edited by Indrid_Cold; 05-08-2010 at 07:11 PM.
Old 05-08-2010, 09:55 PM
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Sounds good man, post some pics when you finish.
Old 05-09-2010, 06:09 PM
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^Will do. Its gonna take a little while because I have to find a place to do it and source a good compressor to use.

I was kicking around the idea of filling in the body creases as well, but the body is so straight and there are no dents, so I may just leave it alone.


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