Is an "airbrush" adequate?
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Is an "airbrush" adequate? My wife has an airbrush with a tiny compressor (I think like 60 psi max, and doesn't hold that). I am doing some interior work and am curious whether this could work? Guy at Napa suggested a one step gloss black with hardener at a 4:1. Is it possible to get a smooth exterior-like finish out of this? What about on an intake manifold? Even on urethane ground effects (guy at Napa said this would be ideal for those)?
Thanks and sorry for such a newbie question. I've never strayed from a rattle-can before. I want a damned smooth high-gloss finish, so I figured it was time to hang up the ol' rattle cans.
Thanks and sorry for such a newbie question. I've never strayed from a rattle-can before. I want a damned smooth high-gloss finish, so I figured it was time to hang up the ol' rattle cans.
An intake manifold would be a lot to paint with a hobby style air brush. I own a fishing lure business and on occasion will airbrush some custom/signature lures. It would be a chore. Im sure guys have more experience with this than I, but I think you'd be better off with a small paint gun setup. On the interior pieces, it depends on what your looking to do. Airbrush allows for insane detail, just depends on what your looking for.
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I'm just looking to lay down gloss black. Nothing fancy and only on a few parts. Is there a gun that would work with this tiny compressor? I don't mind buying the extra parts, I just live in an apartment and have no real access to a larger compressor (makeshift temporary paint-booth on the balcony - 100% sealed).
Thanks!
Thanks!
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major chain stores line homedepot and lowes should carry small gravity feed spray guns. They are usually called touch-up guns. They might work off of that small compressor.
When speaking of compressors, the psi doesn't matter as much as the CFM. 60psi is way to high for any type of spraying that I have ever done. The touch-up gun I have uses around 15-20 PSI. Those little guns work great for spraying small pieces.
When speaking of compressors, the psi doesn't matter as much as the CFM. 60psi is way to high for any type of spraying that I have ever done. The touch-up gun I have uses around 15-20 PSI. Those little guns work great for spraying small pieces.
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Excellent, thanks. I'll pick one up tomorrow. Is the one step paint okay to use? I have adhered and primed the plastics. What about for the urethane ground effects (rear bumper pieces from the Wings West kit - about 4" tall by about 2 feet long)? Is the single stage as good for that as Mr. Napa guy said?
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I chose a B.A. rather than a B.S. for a reason!!! I am can understand numbers and calculations well, but I just never put in the time to understand mechanics like this.
This compressor is a 1/8 hp (think I could hook nitrous up to it, I have the spare parts, or maybe I could let it borrow some from my engine). It is rated to 0.7 CFM @ 50 PSI. If I understand correctly, as PSI goes down, CFM goes up. Is there a formula that I could use to calculate the CFM @ 20 PSI?
Thanks again everyone. This is a great break from finals. Now, back to the Roman Empire...
This compressor is a 1/8 hp (think I could hook nitrous up to it, I have the spare parts, or maybe I could let it borrow some from my engine). It is rated to 0.7 CFM @ 50 PSI. If I understand correctly, as PSI goes down, CFM goes up. Is there a formula that I could use to calculate the CFM @ 20 PSI?
Thanks again everyone. This is a great break from finals. Now, back to the Roman Empire...
Last edited by transsam; May 3, 2010 at 11:21 PM.
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I'll pick up the tank after my final tomorrow! (too bad I have another 2 days later, so no go on actually getting anything done - yet).
Thanks again!
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yeah you'll definitely need a tank with that low of a cfm number. Most of those guns operate in the 15 cfm range or so. That must be one tiny air compressor. You wont be able to spray for too long. Basically once the tank runs down below the pressure you are spraying you will have to wait till its full again to continue spraying.
Yes, as pressure goes down, cfm goes up. I just looked on harbor freights website and found a gun that should work for you that is pretty cheap. It wont atomize as good as a good gun, so you wont get as good of a flow. You'll just have to be ready to wetsand and buff everything. It takes 3 cfm@50psi, so basically 6 times the capacity of your compressor. There is another one that is gravity feed that is only 1.5 cfm@ 30psi, but also states that 12cfm is recommended for supply.
Yes, as pressure goes down, cfm goes up. I just looked on harbor freights website and found a gun that should work for you that is pretty cheap. It wont atomize as good as a good gun, so you wont get as good of a flow. You'll just have to be ready to wetsand and buff everything. It takes 3 cfm@50psi, so basically 6 times the capacity of your compressor. There is another one that is gravity feed that is only 1.5 cfm@ 30psi, but also states that 12cfm is recommended for supply.
Last edited by 99345hp; May 4, 2010 at 06:01 PM.
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I don't want to cut corners. If this is a project that really won't work, I'll just buy the right tools. What kind of CFM can I get out of a tank if I fill it up and what kind of spraying time will I have? Should I peace-meal this together, or pony up on an adequate compressor. If I need a compressor or compressor/tank combo that I should go with that could save a little coin, lemme know.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Last edited by transsam; May 4, 2010 at 07:21 PM.
The big results will come from the prep....you will need to sand that grainy texture down on the pieces. Start by prepping the pieces with an adhesion promoter, then spray a thick coat of high build primer. Then go to sanding, maybe start with 400 and work your way to 800, then 1000, 1500, etc.
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Yup, done and done. The parts are waiting for me to make up my damned mind. They are sanded to 2000. Ready to put paint to them. I spent so many hours on the actual sanding and prep, I don't want to mess it up with the paint.
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2000 grit? that might be a little too far. 800 would be more than plenty. You still need some light surface scratches for the paint to adhere to.
I would go and get a small compressor with around a 5 gallon tank. You should be able to get a decently cheap one at lowes or home depot. You will be able to use it over and over again for different projects. You don't want to paint the ground effects a little bit at a time because you keep running out of air. You dont get cfm out of a tank, you get that from your compressor. All you get with a tank is reserve air.
I would go and get a small compressor with around a 5 gallon tank. You should be able to get a decently cheap one at lowes or home depot. You will be able to use it over and over again for different projects. You don't want to paint the ground effects a little bit at a time because you keep running out of air. You dont get cfm out of a tank, you get that from your compressor. All you get with a tank is reserve air.
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I was beginning to be afraid the 2000 was excessive. Looks like I get to resand back down to a less smooth finish. Talk about prep, sand to 2000 then sand back! Oh well. For the compressor, my brother-in-law has a great compressor and only lives a half hour away. Thanks for the help and information!
If it was me, id use good quality rattle can, and unless you wanna buy the gun to have or to practice or use to get experience or for fun,, i wouldnt buy it. I have a touch up gun and like it but it is messy and still as much work actually more work then the cans.
The air brush gun doesn't hold enough paint for what you want it for.
as for rattle cans,,, you get what you pay for,,, I always use to buy the cheap rust paint or value paint and you will never get a perfect gloss look.
If your ganna use rattle can buy the good stuff... rattle cans come with really nice spray nossles now more then ever.
alot of it is spray technique,, so if you cant get good results with a can you probably wont with a gun either.
Also dont rush it.
If u use the good stuff,,, prime, base coat, and then clear,,, letting it dry properly between you can get great results with a can.
Most mistakes ppl make with cans is,, poor spray pattern due to old paint, cloged nossle, cheap nossle or cheap paint, uneven paint application, too dry (not shinny) or too wet (runs), not waiting inbetween coats (pin holes or runs), not cleaning parts or primeing (runs, fisheyes), combining different incompatible paints (cracking, lifting, fisheyes)
Most of the time the problem is too much paint... and some ppl find a gun will lay it on thinner so its harder to get runs. But you still can mess it up with a gun as well.
The air brush gun doesn't hold enough paint for what you want it for.
as for rattle cans,,, you get what you pay for,,, I always use to buy the cheap rust paint or value paint and you will never get a perfect gloss look.
If your ganna use rattle can buy the good stuff... rattle cans come with really nice spray nossles now more then ever.
alot of it is spray technique,, so if you cant get good results with a can you probably wont with a gun either.
Also dont rush it.
If u use the good stuff,,, prime, base coat, and then clear,,, letting it dry properly between you can get great results with a can.
Most mistakes ppl make with cans is,, poor spray pattern due to old paint, cloged nossle, cheap nossle or cheap paint, uneven paint application, too dry (not shinny) or too wet (runs), not waiting inbetween coats (pin holes or runs), not cleaning parts or primeing (runs, fisheyes), combining different incompatible paints (cracking, lifting, fisheyes)
Most of the time the problem is too much paint... and some ppl find a gun will lay it on thinner so its harder to get runs. But you still can mess it up with a gun as well.
