Door literally falling apart, what to do
05-10-2010, 12:06 AM
#21
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Yup, door skin.. Panel bond, as mentioned above (with clamps).. Heat lamps help speed the process.. And that's the way it came from the factory.. so you didn't buy a heap.. lol
05-10-2010, 02:44 AM
#23
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i fixed a guys firebird who had the same problem. Work at a bodyshop so i took some panel bonding and left a vice grip on there for a few hours. held fine.
05-11-2010, 08:20 AM
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Well what you want to do is tape off where you dont want to get fiberglass on you should use kittyhair its really strong and you can layer it a lot unlike bondo this stuff should not crack you can find it at napa or autozone or keystone thats what we use at our shop
05-12-2010, 08:16 PM
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I bought a 94 Camaro with the door skin coming apart on drivers door. Looked really bad whole side had broken off and the idiots before tried super gluing it and that didn't hold just made more junk to scrape off.
Went to the local body shop supply place and bought corvette panel adhesive and it worked like a charm.
Make sure to get all the old adhesive off real good and sand/scuff up the mating surface and clamp it together until it drys.
CPA was not cheap , cheaper than a door by far tho. You can buy it (or something very simillar that will work, a fiberglass adhesive) in a tube for a caulking gun and special tip to mix it while you squeeze.
Went to the local body shop supply place and bought corvette panel adhesive and it worked like a charm.
Make sure to get all the old adhesive off real good and sand/scuff up the mating surface and clamp it together until it drys.
CPA was not cheap , cheaper than a door by far tho. You can buy it (or something very simillar that will work, a fiberglass adhesive) in a tube for a caulking gun and special tip to mix it while you squeeze.
05-12-2010, 09:20 PM
#28
I used Fusor on two metal parts and it was pretty amazing. It would certainly handle your fiberglass repair. It is basically a epoxy, but designed for automotive panels. From what I have heard, this product was formulated for exactly the kind of work you need done. I borrowed a friend's so I don't know where you would find Fusor.
05-20-2010, 03:43 PM
#30
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thanks for all the help guys, i'm glad to hear this is a common problem and not just me buying a car that's rotting out or anything. i got my hands on some panel bonding adhesive that worked awesome, but come winter I'm going to take the door off and do a more complete job.
05-20-2010, 04:09 PM
#32
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Like mentioned above, use an adhesive. I had the same problem with my doors after someone tried to break in and separated the outer door skin from the door. I used a bonding adhesive from Eckler's, P/N 10703. That was quite a while back and it is still holding. Clamp it together while it sets, it will hold for good.
05-20-2010, 07:37 PM
#33
if you use 3M panel bond adhesive aka quarter panel glue (is kinda expensive around $50 a tube) it will never ever come aprt..the door frame will break before the skin comes off.
We use that **** at work to glue 1/4's on cars insted of miging them..much cleaner..takes 24 hours to cure. Just take the door off the car and and glue the skin, then use wood clamps or paddle vice grips to pull the skin tight to the frame..(use masking tape under the paddels so you dont scratch the outer surface of the paint)
Good luck!
We use that **** at work to glue 1/4's on cars insted of miging them..much cleaner..takes 24 hours to cure. Just take the door off the car and and glue the skin, then use wood clamps or paddle vice grips to pull the skin tight to the frame..(use masking tape under the paddels so you dont scratch the outer surface of the paint)
Good luck!
05-21-2010, 11:51 AM
#34
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I've had this exact problem and I used a product called Plastic Welder from Napa for about $15 it works great and is taking the abuse of the door being open and closed all the time.
After you put it on I put some card board on the outside of the door and then used a clamp to hold it tight together after about 2hrs (it says 15mins) of me letting it dry I have never had a problem with it. Had it on the car for about 8months now cant tell it was even done.
After you put it on I put some card board on the outside of the door and then used a clamp to hold it tight together after about 2hrs (it says 15mins) of me letting it dry I have never had a problem with it. Had it on the car for about 8months now cant tell it was even done.
05-23-2010, 06:03 PM
#35
3m has a few different panel bonding adhesives. They are 2 part adhesives that come in the cartridge form and have special "mixing tips" to mix the 2 parts together properly. There is a "door skin bonding" glue and there's a "panel bonding glue". Both will work but the door skin version should hold up better. If you see mention of Duramix or Automix it is the same stuff. 3m bought out Duramix...
06-04-2010, 03:58 PM
#37
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the door is SMC not fiberglass so any fiberglass repair stuff wont hold.
get some fusor or something similiar that works with SMC, clamp it and enjoy having a rattle free door
get some fusor or something similiar that works with SMC, clamp it and enjoy having a rattle free door
06-05-2010, 09:16 PM
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Something to keep in mind to prevent it from happening again in the future is when you put the window all the way down, bump it back up just a smidge. When the windows hit the very bottom they put pressure on the doors and make them bulge. Poor design by GM.
I've always made sure that once they hit bottom to nudge them up just a tad to make the bulge go away. Not sure if the previous owners did or not, but at nearly 148k and original doors and nothing is separating yet.
I've always made sure that once they hit bottom to nudge them up just a tad to make the bulge go away. Not sure if the previous owners did or not, but at nearly 148k and original doors and nothing is separating yet.
