Subframe rail rusted out - fixable or the beginning of the end?
Subframe rail rusted out - fixable or the beginning of the end? I went to jack up my car to check my torque arm bushing. Jacked it up by the subframe rail in front of the driver side rear wheel. It buckled under the weight of the car, dropping large rust flakes all over 
So is this kind of thing reasonably repairable, or is the cancer too far along and this the beginning of the end of my Camaro?
So is this kind of thing reasonably repairable, or is the cancer too far along and this the beginning of the end of my Camaro?
Not what I want to hear. I really like this car, and I can't afford to replace it.. I mean, yeah looking at it, it'll hold together for a while longer, but still... I'd sure miss it. And in its current condition and miles I couldn't sell it for much of anything.
Crap.
I have several new parts for it in the basement too that I've been slowly collecting for the originally-planned fix-up/makeover.
I'm planning on asking the body guy tomorrow to look at it and see what he thinks but I fear he'll say the same as you said
Crap.
I have several new parts for it in the basement too that I've been slowly collecting for the originally-planned fix-up/makeover.
I'm planning on asking the body guy tomorrow to look at it and see what he thinks but I fear he'll say the same as you said
Hard to get pics with it on the ground - I'll try tho.
Guess I should say yes it is fixable, but is it financially reasonable to fix. ANYTHING can be fix given enough money and work. But when chasing rust, he warned that such a thing can snowball into a large expensive project quickly...
Guess I should say yes it is fixable, but is it financially reasonable to fix. ANYTHING can be fix given enough money and work. But when chasing rust, he warned that such a thing can snowball into a large expensive project quickly...
OK, pics as requested - warning - the photos are graphic, not for the faint of heart.
Driver side rear subframe member - this is the one that was crushing under the weight of the car. You can push on it by hand and it gives.
Floorpan right in front of that
Front driver side subframe
Passenger side isn't as bad as the driver side.
Rear subframe
Front subframe
Driver side rear subframe member - this is the one that was crushing under the weight of the car. You can push on it by hand and it gives.
Floorpan right in front of that
Front driver side subframe
Passenger side isn't as bad as the driver side.
Rear subframe
Front subframe
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo I thought POR15 prevented rusting by sealing everything out, not slowing down rust at all.
I do wonder how hard it would be to weld in new sub frames... like what if I bought a rust-free car that had been totalled (front end accident or something) and swapped the undercarriage out, wonder how difficult/expensive that would be.
I do wonder how hard it would be to weld in new sub frames... like what if I bought a rust-free car that had been totalled (front end accident or something) and swapped the undercarriage out, wonder how difficult/expensive that would be.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 3
From: somewhere that doesn't get snow
ugg reminds me of the 93 supercoupe i had. This was a pic of the rocker panel 2 years AFTER i had it repaired. you can see the area with the "fresh" paint in pic 2 between the ground effects (top) and where it was rusting out again attatched to the frame rail. That whole section of metal in between the 2 was replaced the first time. It broke apart some time after the pic was taken right before i sold the car. Rust really is like cancer.
OP:
Its not that bad! you just need to get it to an experienced body man, or shop. The rail that caved in can easily be cut out and replaced. There really is no reason to buy a donor either. either you could talk to a salvage yard and they can cut you out what you need, or someone that knows what they are doing can fabricate a rail pretty easily. For the rest of the rust such as the floor pan and everything else, it all just looks cosmetic from what i can tell. POR-15 would get it sealed up and you wouldn't have to worry about it any longer.
Its not that bad! you just need to get it to an experienced body man, or shop. The rail that caved in can easily be cut out and replaced. There really is no reason to buy a donor either. either you could talk to a salvage yard and they can cut you out what you need, or someone that knows what they are doing can fabricate a rail pretty easily. For the rest of the rust such as the floor pan and everything else, it all just looks cosmetic from what i can tell. POR-15 would get it sealed up and you wouldn't have to worry about it any longer.
OP:
Its not that bad! you just need to get it to an experienced body man, or shop. The rail that caved in can easily be cut out and replaced. There really is no reason to buy a donor either. either you could talk to a salvage yard and they can cut you out what you need, or someone that knows what they are doing can fabricate a rail pretty easily. For the rest of the rust such as the floor pan and everything else, it all just looks cosmetic from what i can tell. POR-15 would get it sealed up and you wouldn't have to worry about it any longer.
Its not that bad! you just need to get it to an experienced body man, or shop. The rail that caved in can easily be cut out and replaced. There really is no reason to buy a donor either. either you could talk to a salvage yard and they can cut you out what you need, or someone that knows what they are doing can fabricate a rail pretty easily. For the rest of the rust such as the floor pan and everything else, it all just looks cosmetic from what i can tell. POR-15 would get it sealed up and you wouldn't have to worry about it any longer.
Most of the floorpan is cosmetic, yes. There is one spot that is a tad spongy but the floorpan repairs aren't a big deal really. I already figured that was going to need done.
Hmm. I need to borrow a lift so I can see underneath it and inspect it really well.
Well I was changing the oil and inspecting my tq arm bushing, so I got a better look at the rails.
Left rear, totally shot and spongy. Right rear isn't as bad but still not too good. Left front is crusty with a few loose flakes inside, but still solid (I use that as a jacking point when I change the oil), and right front is a little crusty on the bottom but not as bad as the other 3. Downside is, all of them - fronts included - have some loose crusty flakes inside, so to fix that all 4 would have to be cut off the car anyway. Sigh. A couple small rust holes through the floorpan under the rear seats but nothing huge.
And I noted a design flaw - the drain holes are stamped from the bottom upward, so when water gets in there it has to be something like 1/16" deep before it will actually drain. Geez no wonder why they are rusting, the water doesn't drain properly. Good job GM
I'm starting to really want to save this car, again. Man why am I so attached to it, just keeps costing me money but I have the hardest time with the idea of letting it go Maybe it is because I've done so much to it (just to get it reliable, lol) and have so many plans for it...
Left rear, totally shot and spongy. Right rear isn't as bad but still not too good. Left front is crusty with a few loose flakes inside, but still solid (I use that as a jacking point when I change the oil), and right front is a little crusty on the bottom but not as bad as the other 3. Downside is, all of them - fronts included - have some loose crusty flakes inside, so to fix that all 4 would have to be cut off the car anyway. Sigh. A couple small rust holes through the floorpan under the rear seats but nothing huge.
And I noted a design flaw - the drain holes are stamped from the bottom upward, so when water gets in there it has to be something like 1/16" deep before it will actually drain. Geez no wonder why they are rusting, the water doesn't drain properly. Good job GM
I'm starting to really want to save this car, again. Man why am I so attached to it, just keeps costing me money but I have the hardest time with the idea of letting it go
Maybe it is because I've done so much to it (just to get it reliable, lol) and have so many plans for it... 
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
it can be fixed ... I think Goatman, & your body shop guy, stated the important part - 'could snowball'.
you could pickup another v6 camaro for 4 or 5k ... or even a v8. Have you considered biking? it's fun in the summer
you could pickup another v6 camaro for 4 or 5k ... or even a v8. Have you considered biking? it's fun in the summer
I drive 55 miles one way to work. A bike would take me forever to get there and they wouldn't let it on the highway anyway 
I'm thinking if I do fix this thing, I'll have 3 point SFCs installed at the same time. While doing all that welding might as well put them in then coat it all in POR-15. But that all depends on if I fix it. I haven't decided yet, but I have a long time to decide.
I'm thinking if I do fix this thing, I'll have 3 point SFCs installed at the same time. While doing all that welding might as well put them in then coat it all in POR-15. But that all depends on if I fix it. I haven't decided yet, but I have a long time to decide.
