Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

Painting for the first time.

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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Default Painting for the first time.

Now I have Primerd cars before.

My hood and rear panel are fading pretty bad, clearcoat peeling off the hood.

I have seen rattle can jobs look halfway descent. Using the Dupli-color gm color match paint code 81 bright red..

I was thinking I could make it look better then what it is by sanding it down, using applying a new layer or 2 of paint then clear coating. Would I be better off re primering it first.

Just want something simple until I can get a Professional paint job. Anything has to look better than it does now, also what is the best grit to use.

Should I sand
Primer
Sand
base coat
clear...or what?



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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:23 AM
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My damn hood just started this

Rattle can jobs are pretty tough to do man.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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I having nothing to do this weekend, so Id figure I would give it a try.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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it's not easy, but all clear must be sanded off the entire panel - it's been compromised and if you paint over it it will peel again or do other stuff you don't want. Use whatever grit works but obviously try to keep it higher if possible like 150-220-320 (especially on fiberglass panels - you don't want to go through), primer then paint.

If you do a rattle can job, then have it done professionally, you MUST tell the body shop and they will have to take off everything you did, you cannot spray real paint over rattle can stuff.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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If you plan to rattle-can it I'd just wait on it. It's REALLY hard to rattle-can that large of an area and get a uniform finish. You'll most likely end up with Zebra stripes, even with a good nozzle. However if you really can't wait it can be done.

Since it looks like (in the back passenger corner) that it's down the primer, you have to sand it down until all the clear is gone, paint the color, then clear. You don't HAVE to primer since you're not covering up any body work or raw material. If you cut though the stock primer to the fiberglass, then yes, you have to primer.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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don't do it with the rattle can, it's too big a surface and it can look worse. You'd probably need 6-8 cans, may not be worth it cost wise. no one likes maaco and I'd do some reasearch before I used them, but is it an option for you? few hundred until you can get a better paint job? if that doesn't work, leave it alone, i think it will create more headache than it's worth. You'll have to tape off everything, do a lot of sanding and might actually make it look worse.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Not suitable for a rattle can job.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 06:56 AM
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so becasue your bored you want to rattle can the entire car.................wow!
with no experience in the trade at all just gonna "blah" paint your car huh

body work prep work paint work everything in this trade can not be taught online, us techs can give advice little tips here and there but i could never teach anyone online this is a hands on teaching trade not teaching online

so whats the very first thing you do?? dis assemble the whole car everything off......bumpers, headlights tails lights, all the parts on the doors everything that can come off does

working with SMC panles takes experience if there is a small chip do you sand it all the way down to the smc?? nope becasue it will cause a huge divet in the panle, i block the chip out very lightly then swipe a small amount of glaze in the chip

plastic same thing sand to hard sand uneven a divet will be there might possibly warp the plastic i have seen that happen

what do you sand with A D.A. using what?? start with 120 then 180

primer i use ppgs ncp 271

paint guns
tools
sanding blocks

the list goes on and on

just a fyi for ya you hack up your car and then take it to a shop il tell you right it will cost you double the amount of money for us techs to fix your rattle can and bad body work so keep that in mind

not being a dick just honest
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 02:19 AM
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Find a good Maaco.. if you remove lights, lens, door handles, etc

get a good single stage for ~$350..

It'll be worth it.. when you spend half that on materials and end up regretting it.
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