Door pin
Door pin My drivers side door is sagging like a cougar, I've seen some door pins on eBay and a few say 82-2002 and some 93-2002. Are all these pins the same? Does anyone have a part number? Maybe it's easier to get at napa or something instead of eBay?
You need to lube it. I use a gun cleaner/lubricant/preserver called "Break-Free CLP." It cleans rust and other buildups as you use it, it's a lube and has teflon in it to prevent rusting and keep it lubed when dry. I apply 3 drops twice a year when the door starts to squeek again. And it doesn't leave a dirty ugly mess like grease does.
Oh. If it's sagging then yeah. I was thinking there was a typo or smart-phone correction when you typed "sagging like a cougar." I thought you meant "sounding like a cougar!" LOL There's always the scrap yard for finding parts like that. It's where I'd go first. I'd be quite comfortable saying the 93-02 would be identical, but I don't know about if the earlier years would be.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: chicago
its not just the pins that need replacing its also the bushings in the hinge
remove the trim panle
remove the wiring harness
remove the door
correct me if iam wrong but if the lower hinge has a spring, then you need a special tool to remove that spring
get a hammer and tap out the pins
then use a punch to remove the bushings
i then reinstall bushings, use a small bit of grease on the new pins, hammer the pins into hinge
reinstall door, remove the striker to get gaps at the fender and quater, with the striker in its a big pain in the *** to get gaps back
its not hard to do but its time consuming, and at 4-6 hours a side at 48 per hour for labor its costly to have done
remove the trim panle
remove the wiring harness
remove the door
correct me if iam wrong but if the lower hinge has a spring, then you need a special tool to remove that spring
get a hammer and tap out the pins
then use a punch to remove the bushings
i then reinstall bushings, use a small bit of grease on the new pins, hammer the pins into hinge
reinstall door, remove the striker to get gaps at the fender and quater, with the striker in its a big pain in the *** to get gaps back
its not hard to do but its time consuming, and at 4-6 hours a side at 48 per hour for labor its costly to have done
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: chicago
thanks
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Shouldn't have to replace the spring, just the upper pin and bushing. Autozone probably has a kit in the help section. It probably is compatable with 3rd gens too, and probably a lot more GM vehicles. It's not too bad to do. Take a floor jack and a piece of wood put a little pressure on the back of the door So that the pressure is not binding the pin. The rest is self explanatory. Punch and lube!
This is a 4th gen. Most people have said you just need to support the door, knock out the pin and replace the pin and bushing.
If you do one hinge at a time, the door doesn't have to come off. I did em all the time with a floor jack at the dealership. You do need the door spring compressor though. No reason to pull the whole door off. The whole job should take less than an hour for the whole car. This comes from a REAL tech that knows how to make money when paid flat rate.....take that for what it's worth. Also, maybe don't be such a douche in the future.
I got the bright idea to put one in a vise, compress it fully, and wrap wire around opposite sides to keep it compressed. It held so I sat it on my spoiler while I got the door ready. The wires simultaneously broke and the spring shot up, went ceiling, floor, ceiling, floor and luckily, hit the underside of my work bench while I curled up in the fetal position next to my car. thank God it didnt hit anything expensive
I really think some bored GM engineer saw a box of old valvesprings and decided to use those to keep our doors in place
yes
I got the bright idea to put one in a vise, compress it fully, and wrap wire around opposite sides to keep it compressed. It held so I sat it on my spoiler while I got the door ready. The wires simultaneously broke and the spring shot up, went ceiling, floor, ceiling, floor and luckily, hit the underside of my work bench while I curled up in the fetal position next to my car. thank God it didnt hit anything expensive
I really think some bored GM engineer saw a box of old valvesprings and decided to use those to keep our doors in place
I got the bright idea to put one in a vise, compress it fully, and wrap wire around opposite sides to keep it compressed. It held so I sat it on my spoiler while I got the door ready. The wires simultaneously broke and the spring shot up, went ceiling, floor, ceiling, floor and luckily, hit the underside of my work bench while I curled up in the fetal position next to my car. thank God it didnt hit anything expensive
I really think some bored GM engineer saw a box of old valvesprings and decided to use those to keep our doors in place
Hey,you guys sound like you know a lot about this.I have a '99 T/A Vert and the passanger door seems to lean out away from the top of the car and in a little at the bottom-this results in the top not sealing as well as it used to.Can you walk me through adjusting this?Would the fender need removal?Can it be done by adjusting bolts on door or frame?Any help will be appreciated--pics appreciated even more!!!!
[QUOTE=VinR1;14321291]yes
I got the bright idea to put one in a vise, compress it fully, and wrap wire around opposite sides to keep it compressed. It held so I sat it on my spoiler while I got the door ready. The wires simultaneously broke and the spring shot up, went ceiling, floor, ceiling, floor and luckily, hit the underside of my work bench while I curled up in the fetal position next to my car.
I got the bright idea to put one in a vise, compress it fully, and wrap wire around opposite sides to keep it compressed. It held so I sat it on my spoiler while I got the door ready. The wires simultaneously broke and the spring shot up, went ceiling, floor, ceiling, floor and luckily, hit the underside of my work bench while I curled up in the fetal position next to my car.
Just a heads up, my door was sagging also but it was because the fiberglass at the lower hinge on the door side was being pushed in. I had to add some washers to bring it back up to level.