sanded through clear coat in two spots
09-18-2011, 02:46 PM
#2
replace the clear... clean it off and just put two coats of clear over it, make sure to feather it, DO NOT tape off the area then clear it.... Ive done that a couple of times. its easy to fix...
09-18-2011, 04:04 PM
#3
How much do I feather out the area? Like I said, they are about the size of a nickel.
Also, I wet sanded the entire fender so right now the fender is dull looking. I guess I now need to polish the fender and bring back the shine.
With replacing the clear coat, do I spray the entire fender? or just the area where I went through the clear coat?
thanks
Also, I wet sanded the entire fender so right now the fender is dull looking. I guess I now need to polish the fender and bring back the shine.
With replacing the clear coat, do I spray the entire fender? or just the area where I went through the clear coat?
thanks
09-18-2011, 04:30 PM
#4
Do you have a pic with the areas notated? you just want to avoid having a step in the surface from where tape was, as long as you cover the burn, it really doesnt matter since you are wetsanding then buffing again... if you feather/blend your new spot, you wont have to resand the whole fender. you also run the risk of changing the texture of the clear and making it stand out. pics would help so we can see the color and location of the burn...
09-18-2011, 08:42 PM
#5
I'll post pictures of where I went through the clear coat tomorrow.
Check out the pictures I attached. This is where the pin stripe used to be. It left this damn inbedded mark in the paint. Ive sanded with 1500, 1000, 800 and finally 600 grit...thats when I realized I went through the clear. How the hell do you get rid of this?
Check out the pictures I attached. This is where the pin stripe used to be. It left this damn inbedded mark in the paint. Ive sanded with 1500, 1000, 800 and finally 600 grit...thats when I realized I went through the clear. How the hell do you get rid of this?
09-19-2011, 02:09 PM
#7
I'll post pictures of where I went through the clear coat tomorrow.
Check out the pictures I attached. This is where the pin stripe used to be. It left this damn inbedded mark in the paint. Ive sanded with 1500, 1000, 800 and finally 600 grit...thats when I realized I went through the clear. How the hell do you get rid of this?
Check out the pictures I attached. This is where the pin stripe used to be. It left this damn inbedded mark in the paint. Ive sanded with 1500, 1000, 800 and finally 600 grit...thats when I realized I went through the clear. How the hell do you get rid of this?
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09-19-2011, 02:27 PM
#8
Here's how it went
Started with 1500, got nowhere, went to 1000, got nowhere, went to 800, got nowhere, went to 600....went through clear coat
Its like someone installed the pin stripe on the base coat and then cleared over top of the stripe. So after I removed the stripe what I am seeing is the base coat. Does mean I will have to remove all of the clear coat to get it down to the base coat and then re-clear the entire fender?
Started with 1500, got nowhere, went to 1000, got nowhere, went to 800, got nowhere, went to 600....went through clear coat
Its like someone installed the pin stripe on the base coat and then cleared over top of the stripe. So after I removed the stripe what I am seeing is the base coat. Does mean I will have to remove all of the clear coat to get it down to the base coat and then re-clear the entire fender?
09-19-2011, 02:29 PM
#9
you used a shitload of paper for just knocking down the clear coat.. lol
LMT... I did this on my own car and you cant tell a bit... I did the top of my wing, and one of my rear fenders, there is no color variation at all, nothing. I have a bright red car so maybe the color itself makes a difference.. I know when I tried to repair a metallic color like silver met, or pewter, the flake would have a different look cause it layed down differently...
LMT... I did this on my own car and you cant tell a bit... I did the top of my wing, and one of my rear fenders, there is no color variation at all, nothing. I have a bright red car so maybe the color itself makes a difference.. I know when I tried to repair a metallic color like silver met, or pewter, the flake would have a different look cause it layed down differently...
09-19-2011, 02:32 PM
#10
OP, if you have stripes under the clear, youre most likely better off just spraying the whole piece.. the time and effort it will take to make it look right will far exceed just respraying it... Im not a professional but I have painted lots of small parts for guys on here and this is just my opinion
09-19-2011, 04:25 PM
#12
When sanding start with the coarser grit first. In your case it would be 600 then go from there. The higher the number the finer the grit is.
If the pin stripe is under the clear coat I don't see any other way than repaint the panel/car.
Is it like that on the entire car or just that panel? I've seen people fix a spot on the panel and instead of taking the pin stripping off they just clear the whole thing.
IMO, for whatever that's worth, is to respray the base and then re clear it. As mentioned before there can be a ring or a halo around where you sanded through. If you ended up with 600 grit you would have to sand it smoother to lay the clear on which means you will be taking more base coat off. Base isn't very thick and isn't as tough as clear coat. When you sand base, especially with something like 600 it "tears" through the base instead of just sanding through it.
Hope this helps some.
If the pin stripe is under the clear coat I don't see any other way than repaint the panel/car.
Is it like that on the entire car or just that panel? I've seen people fix a spot on the panel and instead of taking the pin stripping off they just clear the whole thing.
IMO, for whatever that's worth, is to respray the base and then re clear it. As mentioned before there can be a ring or a halo around where you sanded through. If you ended up with 600 grit you would have to sand it smoother to lay the clear on which means you will be taking more base coat off. Base isn't very thick and isn't as tough as clear coat. When you sand base, especially with something like 600 it "tears" through the base instead of just sanding through it.
Hope this helps some.
09-19-2011, 04:57 PM
#13
When sanding start with the coarser grit first. In your case it would be 600 then go from there. The higher the number the finer the grit is.
If the pin stripe is under the clear coat I don't see any other way than repaint the panel/car.
Is it like that on the entire car or just that panel? I've seen people fix a spot on the panel and instead of taking the pin stripping off they just clear the whole thing.
IMO, for whatever that's worth, is to respray the base and then re clear it. As mentioned before there can be a ring or a halo around where you sanded through. If you ended up with 600 grit you would have to sand it smoother to lay the clear on which means you will be taking more base coat off. Base isn't very thick and isn't as tough as clear coat. When you sand base, especially with something like 600 it "tears" through the base instead of just sanding through it.
Hope this helps some.
If the pin stripe is under the clear coat I don't see any other way than repaint the panel/car.
Is it like that on the entire car or just that panel? I've seen people fix a spot on the panel and instead of taking the pin stripping off they just clear the whole thing.
IMO, for whatever that's worth, is to respray the base and then re clear it. As mentioned before there can be a ring or a halo around where you sanded through. If you ended up with 600 grit you would have to sand it smoother to lay the clear on which means you will be taking more base coat off. Base isn't very thick and isn't as tough as clear coat. When you sand base, especially with something like 600 it "tears" through the base instead of just sanding through it.
Hope this helps some.
The reason I started with 1500 grit is I thought the inbedded stripe would be removed easily with a little wet sanding and some fine 1500 grit. However, 1500 didnt phase the stripe at all, so thats why I went to 1000 grit...and I saw that wasnt phasing the stripe, then tried 800 and finally 600....
I know for prepping a panel you finish with a fine wet sanding. I use 2000 grit.
Last edited by 30th t/a; 09-19-2011 at 05:04 PM.
09-19-2011, 05:33 PM
#14
I didn't mean you should necessarily have to start out with 600 I just used that as an example because those were the grits you mentioned. Yes it's always best to use the finest grit you can when sanding something. I understand why you did what you did now.
Sorry if my post was confusing.
Sorry if my post was confusing.
09-19-2011, 09:44 PM
#15
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If your having to use 600 to get something off the paint, then your going to have to repaint
As far as im concerned i would have stopped at 1000. After that it gets really risky but i do use 800 from time to time on small areas.
If the stripes are literally under the clear, then your gonna have to get under the clear to get them out, and replace the clear coat. Sorry bro.
Sounds like some shoddy body work or something.
Can you post some more detailed pics of what your trying to remove?
As far as im concerned i would have stopped at 1000. After that it gets really risky but i do use 800 from time to time on small areas.
If the stripes are literally under the clear, then your gonna have to get under the clear to get them out, and replace the clear coat. Sorry bro.
Sounds like some shoddy body work or something.
Can you post some more detailed pics of what your trying to remove?
09-19-2011, 09:58 PM
#16
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scuff entire area around sanded through area. use gray scotchbrite. Then spray your base over the sanded through area. try to kind of lightly overspray around the area{or fade it out} then spray your clear after that flashes, then use burn in solvent around the edges where you sprayed clear further out then you sprayed your base coat. but go easy with the stuff, because too much will cause it to run like a big dog... This is called spotting in. Your local paint shop has all these supplies and will tell you how to use them. Or you can scuff the whole panel, spray your base in the areas you screwed up, and kinda do the fade thing again, no need to spray the entire panel most likely. Then just clear the whole thing
09-20-2011, 02:47 AM
#17
scuff entire area around sanded through area. use gray scotchbrite. Then spray your base over the sanded through area. try to kind of lightly overspray around the area{or fade it out} then spray your clear after that flashes, then use burn in solvent around the edges where you sprayed clear further out then you sprayed your base coat. but go easy with the stuff, because too much will cause it to run like a big dog... This is called spotting in. Your local paint shop has all these supplies and will tell you how to use them. Or you can scuff the whole panel, spray your base in the areas you screwed up, and kinda do the fade thing again, no need to spray the entire panel most likely. Then just clear the whole thing
No. Seriously. I'm not being an ***. I would like to see before/after. I'm always down for learning something.
09-20-2011, 06:19 PM
#19
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As he stated, the best way is of course to re clear the entire panel. If you suck at blending you will make a mess and probably end up doing it anyway lol