**** How-to Sagging door fix**** (with pictures)
#1
**** How-to Sagging door fix**** (with pictures)
Ok here is a quick how-to.
First remove the door panel and wiring from the door.
Here is the damaged area causing the sag, I had 1/2" of washers to make the door straight.
Mark the hinge spots on your door before removing, will save you a bunch of time adjusting.
Here is the spot to repair (lower hinge mount of door)
Grind away the cracked fake fiberglass, I went further out then the picture showed. As you can see the metal plate behind the door is bent towards the inside causing it to sag, you can try to remove this plate by removing the impact bar on the inside and reinstalling everything. I did not....
Here is the glass caked on thick, there is a giant hole here so I made sure it filled the hole and mated to the metal plate. This is glass I use on our boats and this thing is more then tough enough to do the job, but as long as you fiberglass it it will hold.
Since I didnt remove the plat and bother straightening it out, I just shoved a bunch of glass around it keeping it from moving back further.
Sand the outside flat, redrill holes and install (no pictures)
Im off to eat, enjoy and comment or ask questions.
First remove the door panel and wiring from the door.
Here is the damaged area causing the sag, I had 1/2" of washers to make the door straight.
Mark the hinge spots on your door before removing, will save you a bunch of time adjusting.
Here is the spot to repair (lower hinge mount of door)
Grind away the cracked fake fiberglass, I went further out then the picture showed. As you can see the metal plate behind the door is bent towards the inside causing it to sag, you can try to remove this plate by removing the impact bar on the inside and reinstalling everything. I did not....
Here is the glass caked on thick, there is a giant hole here so I made sure it filled the hole and mated to the metal plate. This is glass I use on our boats and this thing is more then tough enough to do the job, but as long as you fiberglass it it will hold.
Since I didnt remove the plat and bother straightening it out, I just shoved a bunch of glass around it keeping it from moving back further.
Sand the outside flat, redrill holes and install (no pictures)
Im off to eat, enjoy and comment or ask questions.
#6
Regular open and closing wont cause it too sag I feel. I've seen people get out of the car and put one hand on the end of the open door and use that to hold all their weight as they get out of the car. That will cause the door to sag.
#8
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The point of this thread is to show that the hinge/bushings are not the problem with sagging doors. It's the actual door, as the OP has demonstrated. Nice job.
#9
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That looks rather crude, being how the doors are SMC I would have went a different route. That really looks like fibral, not a good fix, Probably fine to use to water proof a crack or hole but that stuff is not structural at all, and those doors are extremely heavy. Fiberglass resin and mat would have been better than fibral, but like mentioned earlier those doors are SMC not fiberglass so a product like Fusor 100EZ with there reinforcement mesh which I believe is Fusor700 would have been best.
Also, the reason those doors sag is because there a very very heavy and long, I'm sure people leaning on the doors while open doesn't help matters but that is not the sole reason for them to sag.
On another note, stacking shims and washers all jimmy rigged and such between the door and the hinge is not the proper way to realign the door. If the door is sagging and the bushing are not the problem obviously something is bent or cracked, So in your case, the door being cracked that is, I would have used a door alignment tool, which slides in to your door latch and hooks to the striker and gives you leverage to spring your door up or down. I would have done this prior to repairing the cracked door shell.
Steck makes a rather cheap door alignment tool that allows you to attach a breaker bar to it for leverage. Here is a part number 21845. I think there are like 20 dollars.
-Bad Brad Buck
Also, the reason those doors sag is because there a very very heavy and long, I'm sure people leaning on the doors while open doesn't help matters but that is not the sole reason for them to sag.
On another note, stacking shims and washers all jimmy rigged and such between the door and the hinge is not the proper way to realign the door. If the door is sagging and the bushing are not the problem obviously something is bent or cracked, So in your case, the door being cracked that is, I would have used a door alignment tool, which slides in to your door latch and hooks to the striker and gives you leverage to spring your door up or down. I would have done this prior to repairing the cracked door shell.
Steck makes a rather cheap door alignment tool that allows you to attach a breaker bar to it for leverage. Here is a part number 21845. I think there are like 20 dollars.
-Bad Brad Buck
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If the door is sagging and the bushing are not the problem obviously something is bent or cracked, So in your case, the door being cracked that is, I would have used a door alignment tool, which slides in to your door latch and hooks to the striker and gives you leverage to spring your door up or down. I would have done this prior to repairing the cracked door shell.
Steck makes a rather cheap door alignment tool that allows you to attach a breaker bar to it for leverage.
Steck makes a rather cheap door alignment tool that allows you to attach a breaker bar to it for leverage.
#14
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I don't think the doors sag because they are long and heavy (even if they are). Think about it, when the door is closed it is supported on both ends, and the door spends 90% of its time closed. I think it is caused by what the OP said, people putting their weight on the doors, leaning on them, etc. That extra pressure bends the plate and cracks the door.
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You just can't argue with stupidity, they just drag you down to there level and beat you with experience. I wont make the mistake of posting some true and useful information again.
Anyways, for all of you do it yourself body men or painters, sometimes or I guess 99% of the time you will be better off to take your stuff to a professional or get a professionals assistance even if you have to pay them for there advice or guidance. There is no glory to be had if you do it yourself and it looks like ****.
Anyways, for all of you do it yourself body men or painters, sometimes or I guess 99% of the time you will be better off to take your stuff to a professional or get a professionals assistance even if you have to pay them for there advice or guidance. There is no glory to be had if you do it yourself and it looks like ****.
#17
door cracks can also be fixed using "Nortans -Speed Grip"
just for ***** and gigs, OP get up close and personal with your top and bottom while have someone slightly lift up on the end of the door, anyone who has any kind of mileage on their car ( not like 10k) will see that this shitty *** hinges do wear fast, not saying its the only reason why they sag but i found it to be a role of both parts hinges and some cracks in my case
once the bolt part of the hinge wears though the thin bushing it starts cutting into the hinge itself
just for ***** and gigs, OP get up close and personal with your top and bottom while have someone slightly lift up on the end of the door, anyone who has any kind of mileage on their car ( not like 10k) will see that this shitty *** hinges do wear fast, not saying its the only reason why they sag but i found it to be a role of both parts hinges and some cracks in my case
once the bolt part of the hinge wears though the thin bushing it starts cutting into the hinge itself
#18
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I don't think the doors sag because they are long and heavy (even if they are). Think about it, when the door is closed it is supported on both ends, and the door spends 90% of its time closed. I think it is caused by what the OP said, people putting their weight on the doors, leaning on them, etc. That extra pressure bends the plate and cracks the door.
#19
Anyone ever come up with a better solution to fixing these cracks at the lower door hinge .......Both my passenger and drivers door have cracks starting and i would like to stop it in its tracks! Thanks!
#20
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I just bought a junk yard door to gut for autocross. The lower hinge area was cracked on this door. I noticed there is a ton of load on the door coming from the check spring. That little spring is very stiff! I believe the doors are cracking because of the very high load from this check spring over many door cycles, not from leaning on the door etc. I put a doubler plate on the lower hinge AND I removed the check spring completely. If you want to stop the cracking I think the only choice is to remove that spring.