Flat black on entire car question..
Flat black on entire car question.. How many coats of flat black should I lay down on it after sanding and prepping? Also do I need to apply clear coat on flat black or will I be good to go?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
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No clear flat has pourpose imperfections which give it the matte look. Some say 2 coats i say 3 i would go with 3. Then you will be good to go remember never wax flat black just keep it clean and no waxy soaps dawn dish soap works good on flat black. What are you painting?
Would I need primer though since the flat black basically acts as a primer?
We are going over the car with a scuff pad, then with 400 grit, then wash, then another light pass with 400 grit, then wash and maybe use degreaser then wash off again then paint
We are going over the car with a scuff pad, then with 400 grit, then wash, then another light pass with 400 grit, then wash and maybe use degreaser then wash off again then paint
why not paint with hot rod flatz satin black? it holds up the best and its pretty cheap. ive got my entire car done in it without a clear over it. it looks exactly like the day it got done 2 years ago
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From what I know (and this doesn't come from owning a flat black car or painting any), if you want a durable "flat black" paint job, you have to coat it with a satin clear. This makes it a bit more satin and less chalkboard flat but it is much more durable. Which route you should take depends on how you store the car, how much you drive it, and how long you want the paint to last. For sure, if you get sap on your paint, or leave bird poop on it, or drive through construction with fresh tar, you'll have to repaint those areas to get rid of it if you don't have a clear coat. If you drive on the freeway, the dust will sand down the top of your rear bumper over time too.
Even the OEMs haven't really been able to offer a true flat black due to the longevity issues of not using a clearcoat. Lotus even attempted a soft rubber-like coating on their Exige for a limited edition going by Stealth, Scura, or Matte Black Final Edition depending on the market and the specification. Still, they felt the need to warn owners of the natural wear that is implicit in that finish. If you want to save some time and money and have the more authentic hotrod look, go without the clear, if you don't want to have to maintain it and can invest a bit more now, get the satin clear.
Even the OEMs haven't really been able to offer a true flat black due to the longevity issues of not using a clearcoat. Lotus even attempted a soft rubber-like coating on their Exige for a limited edition going by Stealth, Scura, or Matte Black Final Edition depending on the market and the specification. Still, they felt the need to warn owners of the natural wear that is implicit in that finish. If you want to save some time and money and have the more authentic hotrod look, go without the clear, if you don't want to have to maintain it and can invest a bit more now, get the satin clear.
From what I know (and this doesn't come from owning a flat black car or painting any), if you want a durable "flat black" paint job, you have to coat it with a satin clear. This makes it a bit more satin and less chalkboard flat but it is much more durable. Which route you should take depends on how you store the car, how much you drive it, and how long you want the paint to last. For sure, if you get sap on your paint, or leave bird poop on it, or drive through construction with fresh tar, you'll have to repaint those areas to get rid of it if you don't have a clear coat. If you drive on the freeway, the dust will sand down the top of your rear bumper over time too.
Even the OEMs haven't really been able to offer a true flat black due to the longevity issues of not using a clearcoat. Lotus even attempted a soft rubber-like coating on their Exige for a limited edition going by Stealth, Scura, or Matte Black Final Edition depending on the market and the specification. Still, they felt the need to warn owners of the natural wear that is implicit in that finish. If you want to save some time and money and have the more authentic hotrod look, go without the clear, if you don't want to have to maintain it and can invest a bit more now, get the satin clear.
Even the OEMs haven't really been able to offer a true flat black due to the longevity issues of not using a clearcoat. Lotus even attempted a soft rubber-like coating on their Exige for a limited edition going by Stealth, Scura, or Matte Black Final Edition depending on the market and the specification. Still, they felt the need to warn owners of the natural wear that is implicit in that finish. If you want to save some time and money and have the more authentic hotrod look, go without the clear, if you don't want to have to maintain it and can invest a bit more now, get the satin clear.
not sure if I will do the gun option but I will for sure get the satin clear
Having trouble with the rear driver quarter panel, looks like its spiderwebbing or stress crack looking things are on it so might just get like a 60 grit and go over it with one pass, I may need to take that down to bare metal or atleast the blue-ish part (not sure what the proper term is)
then before I paint the car just go over certain areas and dings with a coat of primer and let it dry then apply my first coat of primer
then before I paint the car just go over certain areas and dings with a coat of primer and let it dry then apply my first coat of primer
Thanks. Again, I'm not a painter, but I own a couple of HVLP guns and have painted with automotive base & clearcoat. I've looked into getting a compressor and water trap setup for home, but the investment is just too high if you want to do it right and don't plan to get a lot of use out of it. It's much cheaper to find a local shop and pay them to rent their spray booth when you are ready to paint your car. You could probably shoot primer at home, but with base and clear you can't mess around if you want it to look good. You have to have pressure and capacity (big enough air tank), you need a dry source of air with no condensation in the lines, and a dust free painting area. If you scout around for a good deal at a local paint shop, you may be able to strike up an arrangement that works for both parties.
Sweet thanks... good info guys, and also the cherry red accents like my emblems, the camaro lettering, calipers, coil packs, fuel rail and cruise control cover will look like this:
Just got done painting this:
Just got done painting this:
I wouldn't rattle can it... That never turns out even looking it usually is blotchy etc. like said above find a local booth if you can but I spray in my garage. Wet the walls and floor with a hose right before you spray. Not the ceiling though! Common sense will tell you water will drip down on the car. As for your paint look into John Deere blitz black. It's a satin black with built in uv protection etc. in the long run it's going to be cheaper for this than even using rattle cans. You cant beat 40 bucks a gallon. Call your local implement dealer or you can get it online. Just mix it with the John Deere paint thinner as the directions on the can state. This stuff looks amazing if you are into the flat/satin colors and sprays decent as well I did my pos in it and just waiting for more of it to arrive to do my ta. It will all be the satin black except I'm doing the vht nightshades on the tails and gloss black the filler panel
That's gonna look sweet bones... how many gallons would it take if I'm doing like 2 coats... like 2 gallons? And should I just primer it in the garage before taking it to a Booth?
wait.. are you rattle canning it? this comes for a paint gun and 2 gallons for a car is ridiculously too much
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/HRF201.aspx
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/HRF201.aspx
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 6
From: Marengo, Ia
+1 on the JD Blitz Black. +1000 on not painting it with rattle cans. I've done a fair amount of research on blitz black and plan on painting my 86 SS with it. From what I've read, it's easy to spray, and pretty durable considering it's made for farm equipment. The only major down side to it is that if you ever want to repaint your car shine again you'll have to sand all the blitz black off or bad things might happen when you put new paint on top of it. you shouldn't have to use primer it your paint is in good shape just sand it and paint it, I'd only prime it in placed where you have to sand to bare metal. then I'd do my best to barrow an air compressor, and buy a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart for $10-20. Don't forget prep work is 90% of what it take to get a good paint job, do a good job of sanding, cleaning, and masking or your paint will look like crap.
wait.. are you rattle canning it? this comes for a paint gun and 2 gallons for a car is ridiculously too much
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/HRF201.aspx
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/HRF201.aspx
+1 on the JD Blitz Black. +1000 on not painting it with rattle cans. I've done a fair amount of research on blitz black and plan on painting my 86 SS with it. From what I've read, it's easy to spray, and pretty durable considering it's made for farm equipment. The only major down side to it is that if you ever want to repaint your car shine again you'll have to sand all the blitz black off or bad things might happen when you put new paint on top of it. you shouldn't have to use primer it your paint is in good shape just sand it and paint it, I'd only prime it in placed where you have to sand to bare metal. then I'd do my best to barrow an air compressor, and buy a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart for $10-20. Don't forget prep work is 90% of what it take to get a good paint job, do a good job of sanding, cleaning, and masking or your paint will look like crap.