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Inner Deck-lid Skin Separating

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Old 03-24-2015, 11:18 AM
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Default Inner Deck-lid Skin Separating

Been hearing a really bad squeak/rattle from the back of the car for a while now and finally decided to track it down.

Tracked down the noise to the hatch. Took off the plastic trim piece on the inside of the hatch and found that the inner metal skin of the hatch on the back edge (underneath the spoiler/latch area) was no longer bonded to the exterior of the hatch. Therefore, when I go over bumps, I get the horrible sound of the metal skin against the hatch.

Curious to see if anyone has had this problem and what they have done to fix it.

What I am leaning towards is drilling holes along the perimeter of the skin and filling the gaps with epoxy, using clamps to keep the skin tight against the hatch and then maybe caulk or epoxy the outer edge. I've used a similar method with good results to reinforce part of the floor in my dad's boat.

Anyone have other ideas?


Thanks,

Sean
Old 03-25-2015, 01:18 PM
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If you can get in between with a piece of 40 grit and rough it up you can reglue it. 3m makes a nice panel bonding glue that sticks to about anything. Adhesive number 8115 I believe. That's what we use to bond metals to composites, also can is used to bond door skins and could be used to bond quarter panels. It's very strong stuff and is an accepted panel replacement adhesive by almost all manufacturers. Only catch is it takes a special gun. Find an autobody supply store and ask them about it. You won't need to drill any holes.
Old 03-28-2015, 03:01 PM
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1320Chicken, thanks for the product recommendation. Looking online, it looks like this is a two part epoxy specially designed for bonding composites in automotive applications. And you are correct about needing the special applicator gun. I have used 3M products before and have been very happy with the quality of their products and am comfortable with the premium one pays for their products.

That being said, I already have various epoxies and applicator tools for them. As long as I use an epoxy that will bond to composites and metals, is there any additional qualities that the 3M epoxy has to justify paying the extra cost for their epoxy and applicator gun?


Thanks,

Sean
Old 03-29-2015, 11:55 PM
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My recommendation is based off of what we use at the shop. So I'm just going with what I know. We used duramix for years but I believe 3m bought them out. A lot of the 3m adhesive carry the same number as duramix did. I'm only familiar with duramix, 3M, and Lord's Fusor products.

If you've used something in the past with good results and are setup with the applicators then stick with what works for you. This is the only product that I have personally found to work bonding metals to composites. That doesn't mean more aren't out there.



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