When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's a matter of sliding the door back and forth with the mounting bolts loosened up a touch to get it right. It's kind of a trial and error thing. Tighten them, see how it looks. Loosen a bit, move, tighten, see how it looks. Best done with another person to help so the door doesn't keep moving on you. Bribe someone w/ a 6 pack to help you.
More progress on the door.
I tested the new doors electric motor w/ 12V DC motor's gear didn't move, I'm not sure if this motor works off 12VDC or 5VDC so I'm assuming the motor is toast.
Had to drill out the original electric window motor, I’ve swapped this motor before a long time ago I used small bolt and nut instead of rerivoting so I’ll probably reuse the old sm. Bolts for swapping in new old motor.
The door needs to be slide back ¼” because the window isn’t sitting correctly on the weather seal.
Are there special spacing washers to push door rearward? If yes what size washers should I get to space back ¼” maybe ¼”?
I can make my own spacing washers w/ scrap aluminum.
edit installed old mirror yet to install the door lock better hurry before I forget how to reassemble that thing w/out breaking it.
thanks
My last post wasn't clear enough. You need to loosen the bolts that hold the hinge to the body and adjust it that way. Those are slotted and will slide the door up/down, forward/backward. Like I said, it'll be easier with a 2nd person helping you. The weight of the door is going to want to make it keep sliding around since you have to do it with the door open (unless you're going to pull the fender off), but the bolts that hold the hinges to the body are the ones to adjust to move the door.
OK I will attempt to adjust at the hinges slot. will make a mark where to push back to. you say the hinge's slots allow up/down/forth/aft are these slots basiclly elongated? because I am satisifed w/ height and don't want to mess that up, just want to go back 1/4".
I will cruise around a little today w/out the electric window motor surporting the window, it's taped in place.
would like to know how do you test the electric window motor before it is installed?the motor out of the orginal door worked before removal but was 50% the speed as a new motor. would like to test before installing.
like what voltage comes out of the window switch maybe 12VDCwas to much for the motor.
edit:for future reference: now you have me thinking it could be easier to remove the front bumper (the one I just put on) pull fender then adjust door
thanks
Grab a wiring diagram, should be able to find one on here. Disconnect the power window switch. Look for the 12V supply line, then apply 12V to either of the wires going to the motor using a jumper wire. If the motor spins, it's good. You can apply 12V to either wire, it will spin the motor one way or the other (that's how you get the window to go up or down).
one more thing about the motor is it like a windshield wiper that has a top dead center?
I'm hopping no but am thinking it doe's have TDC like how doe's the motor know when to stop when window is either shut or completely open. if it indeed has a TDC how do I know like if I go up w/ window won't the motor have to be TDC, that was the plan leave window up leave motor set as is was to insure a complete rollup or a complete roll down then I had to start testing the motor so now it's probally w/in the middle of a complete cycle. thanks
I'm unable to figure out how this electric window motor position is. I believe the motor is somewhat parallel to the big round surport bar inside door and slitely upward at wire connection end.
I've fought this thing for over 2 hours yesterday now 1 more today. searched over 20 hours for a image of a motor installed, I dare you will never find such image you are suposed to know how to reassemble. problem is I started this door swap 2 years ago an forgot the position of motor.
I see the holes used on the old motor. but for the live of me so far can't agline the motor w/ the holes and yes I did bump the motor down a tad still can't aline never had this problem the many times I replaced prior window motors.
if I could figure out what hole one #1 is on both motor and regulator or if someone will share the trick to line the gear w/ reg. these motors swaps would be much appreciated.
My last post wasn't clear enough. You need to loosen the bolts that hold the hinge to the body and adjust it that way. Those are slotted and will slide the door up/down, forward/backward. Like I said, it'll be easier with a 2nd person helping you. The weight of the door is going to want to make it keep sliding around since you have to do it with the door open (unless you're going to pull the fender off), but the bolts that hold the hinges to the body are the ones to adjust to move the door.
I'm swapping the door again. I never got around to loosening hinges and adjusting door rearward so it's still out of adjustment by the 1/4" forward.
my new door has hinges already attached to door.I can access the top hinges nuts can't access the lower hinges nut at body. must the front fender be removed to remove door hinges? if yes then I'll have to remove front bumper as well correct?
I assume I could opt to reuse orginal hinges an not use new doors hinges but door would still need reward adjusting (unless I could put spacing washers inbetween door an the bolts)? or do adjustment at a later time when I can get a assistant.
seams like adjusting maybe easier w/ fender off. thanks for advice I've been rereading this thread an couldn't of got the door on w/out the advice from the kind ppl here at ls1tech.
The bumper does not need to come off to remove the fender.
how is this done the bumper is bolted to the fender?
so the fender has to be removed to access hinges nuts? I would prefer to use my new doors hinges already on door. thanks for advice
The bumper does not need to come off to remove the fender.
you Sir are absolutey correct sorry to question you.
update on door swap progress:
good news is I was able to adjust door backward so now the window sits correcetly in it's seal an the gap on driver side is same as pass. side so I'm pleased w/ progress.
bad news is after adjustment rearward I had the door surported w/ paint sticks however the door dropped at the rear.
I then used the GM cars jack to elevate the rear placed at rear of door. after retightening hinges rear still drops.
maybe the GM car jack should be placed in middle of door.
here's the hinges I made a sharpie mark of where I started. note the lower seams twisted a tad could this be why the rear drops?
my current plan was to adjust hinge & door back then reuse the orginal hinge on new door.or should I scrape that plan an use new doors hinges?
1.sense I kindof know how much to move hinge is it easier to adjust the hinge w/out the door attached?
I have the back of door positioned correctly
dissapointed the back of door dropped.
2. during height adjusting w/ bolts at body both top & bottom hinges must be loose? I think the lower hinge twisted causing the rear to drop.
3. is the inner hinges bolts at door for adjusting inward & outward?these slots appear to have very little adjustment room for height but decent room for inward & outward.
4.and the outter hinge that bolts to body is forward & backward & height?
thanks for advice
new door is a prefect paint match bc it's the same silver color code only found on 99 & some 00.
saved me a paint job. all other years 93-02 where a darker shade.
the lower rear of new door seams to stick out a tad just like the fugly purple door did.
by comparing the pass. side the new door needs to slide back a tad more, this would give a bigger gap at the fender which is needed.
I lucked up w/ the key FOB just plugged in an she locks/unlocks just need to swap the key cylinder, swap the newer motor upper & lower weather seals and replace the electric mirror control tore it up removing it.
plus speaker and cracked door panel.
tip on motor plug wire in first then screw in ask me how I found this out.
I'm very pleased w/ my new door an rear doesn't drop when opened, just a little more fine tuning.
there's not much left of my lower fender flange on body considering self tampers though the rocker.
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
