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the man that sold me the door instructed me on how to remove the door keylock just lift up on the flat piece that surounds the lock.
The man who is painting the door only paints so I will have to show up w/ door minus side protecter,door handle & lock. (he will help me hold the door up while I bolt it in.
I plan to use a hair dryer to remove the door spec. lable.
Please provide tips on
1. removing the door handle
2. removing the wireing and reinstalling the wires.
3.and how to adjust the height of door.
I just found out that I can't purchase Dupont paint (which is the paint Pontica used) anymore.
4.Please suggest a decent paint and where to buy in Montgomery, ALabama.I'm thinking PPG mite be good.
5.I'm thinking a 1/2 pint will be enought to paint inside and door skin.
lastly I have 1/2 pint of Dupont base maker leftover from last paint job can it be used w/ the PPG paint.
this will be my first door swap so.
Thanks for any tips I searched and did'nt find anything on a door swap.
From: Weatherford Tx 76085 corner of N. Hwy 51 and 150 Green branch Rd.
Door handles have two 10 or 11mm nuts that you can get to really easy.
Behind the latch there's two or one plug I think depends on year that you'll need to unplug. Then just follow the wires and undo the tabs that holds it in place one by one. The window motor will be kinda difficult since it's in a tight spot to undo especially if your not familiar with the plug. Once it's all unpluged, remove the wiring boot from between the jamb and door and leave the wires hanging out of the way.
Now adjustment of the door that can get difficult. My best advice to you would be remove the nuts on the door itself and just leave the bolts from the hinges to the body frame alone. That way it eliminates adjustment variables from the other door. If the door opens and closes good right now leave the door latch striker alone as well. Adjusting the door is the most difficult part of it all and to keep from damaging it when reinstalling the new door. I would strongly recommend a hand or two once you get ready for the door to be put back on.
Any good auto paint mixer store should be able to get you the base color matched. Most of the time it won't be 100% but depends on color and mixer it will be very close maybe half a shade off. At that point it will be up to the painter to blend it in with the rest of the car.
If the left over paint is not old and not chemically contaminated it should be fine and mixing brand names is not recommended but should work, I stick to what I know is guaranteed to work. Hope this helps.
...At that point it will be up to the painter to blend it in with the rest of the car.
If the painter specifically won't paint the new door unless it's removed, it doesn't sound like it will be attached, to blend the color onto the fender and quarter panel. If the color is a shade off, I'd think a mis-matched door will stick out like a sore thumb. Am I understanding the OP correctly?
Door handles have two 10 or 11mm nuts that you can get to really easy.
Behind the latch there's two or one plug I think depends on year that you'll need to unplug. Then just follow the wires and undo the tabs that holds it in place one by one. The window motor will be kinda difficult since it's in a tight spot to undo especially if your not familiar with the plug. Once it's all unpluged, remove the wiring boot from between the jamb and door and leave the wires hanging out of the way.
Now adjustment of the door that can get difficult. My best advice to you would be remove the nuts on the door itself and just leave the bolts from the hinges to the body frame alone. That way it eliminates adjustment variables from the other door. If the door opens and closes good right now leave the door latch striker alone as well. Adjusting the door is the most difficult part of it all and to keep from damaging it when reinstalling the new door. I would strongly recommend a hand or two once you get ready for the door to be put back on.
Any good auto paint mixer store should be able to get you the base color matched. Most of the time it won't be 100% but depends on color and mixer it will be very close maybe half a shade off. At that point it will be up to the painter to blend it in with the rest of the car.
If the left over paint is not old and not chemically contaminated it should be fine and mixing brand names is not recommended but should work, I stick to what I know is guaranteed to work. Hope this helps.
Thanks
yes the door doe's open and close not properly where the door is damaged is the fiberglass at the door where it bolts to the hinge.
Originally Posted by unixken
If the painter specifically won't paint the new door unless it's removed, it doesn't sound like it will be attached, to blend the color onto the fender and quarter panel. If the color is a shade off, I'd think a mis-matched door will stick out like a sore thumb. Am I understanding the OP correctly?
the painter will paint it however I'd like on the car or off being off is more convenient for me and him.
he painted the front fender off car, painted headlight off car and small spot on hood on the car (he also cleared complete hood) w/ Dupont paint no blending at all it was a prefect match .
I wanted the same Dupont paint Pontica used, now I'm thinking it mite be better to blend since Dupont is longer available.
Thanks
out of necessity I'm driving the TA again still a great car.
can't believe its 2 years.
well I need to get this fugly purple door on the TA.
in the past 2 years the few times I've driven her I have to bend down grab bottom of the door elevate 1" push close, its a pain however I love to drive the TA
Roll the window down all the way so you can shine a flashlight down in there and you've got more room to work. take the interior door panels off. Pull out the big C-clip that holds the lock onto the door with a pair of angled pliers.
on the door swap the purple door is in excellent shape, I fore see the large door bolts falling into the inside of door so I’ll tie the bolts out w/ metal fishing line.
Yesterday I got some light inside the door was able to remove the big C Clip- doorlock cylinder is detached unsure of how to separate from the rods w/out breaking the plastic attachments please advice.
I’m thinking this electrical FOB part needs swaping also correct? I do see the 2 wires however unsure how this piece is removed please advice again. Thanks
The lock cylinder is only held in with a C shaped clip. Pop the clip off and pull the cylinder out after disconnecting the linkage to it. May need a longer handle flat screwdriver to pry the clip loose, but that's it.
The lock cylinder is only held in with a C shaped clip. Pop the clip off yes you are correct I was able to remove the clip and pull the cylinder out after my image usalley turns out w/ the cell phone I must have be slightly in motion look closely the cylinder is disconnected.
disconnecting the linkage to it. yes this is where I stopped because I don't know correct way or place to dissconnect the linkage should pliers be used to squeese press the linkage off?.May need a longer handle flat screwdriver to pry the clip loose, but that's it.
I actuelly pushed the c-clip off w/ my finger my response in bold above
Edit:I’m thinking this electrical FOB part doesn't require swaping if I replace my & reprogram a new key FOB (it is about worn out I really need a new FOB) is this true or false?https://www.remotesremotes.com/produ...SABEgJX0vD_BwE I do see the 2 wires however unsure how this piece is removed please advice again. Thanks
if this piece must indeed be swapped. I'm starting to think to remove the 3 star bolts on the outside of door. I just dont want to ruin 20 year old plastic and have door lock issues.
No, if you replace your key fob, all you have to do is get it reprogrammed to your car. The fob is programmed to the body controller. You don't have to swap anything else over if you are replacing the door other than the key lock cylinder. The latch/lock mechanism is the same, along with the handle. The body controller is what actually controls the lock/unlock function. The key fob sends the command to the body controller, which tells the lock actuator to lock/unlock the doors.
No, if you replace your key fob, all you have to do is get it reprogrammed to your car. The fob is programmed to the body controller. You don't have to swap anything else over if you are replacing the door other than the key lock cylinder. The latch/lock mechanism is the same, along with the handle. The body controller is what actually controls the lock/unlock function. The key fob sends the command to the body controller, which tells the lock actuator to lock/unlock the doors.
Once you have removed the linkage from the lock cylinder and pulled the lock cylinder out, you don't need to remove it from anywhere else. Based on your picture, it looks like the replacement door has all of this stuff in there as well, so just take the cylinder out of your door and the replacement door. Install your lock cylinder in the replacement door, done. No linkage has to be swapped.
Once you have removed the linkage from the lock cylinder
"Once you have removed the linkage from the lock cylinder "anyone know how this is done
seams to me it's directly behind the lock cylinder maybe a small screwdriver to press the rod out?
think I'll practice on the old door once I find out where to dissconnect linkage/
edit:I'm not sure but I believe this door was stored outside being exposed to rain.
mite as well drill out an install the electric window motor now think I test this doors motor first.
thanks for advice
Yes it's right behind the cylinder. The rod connects to it with a small plastic clip. If you look up in there with a light, you'll be able to see what I'm talking about. The rod slides into a hole on the cylinder, then a plastic clip pivots around and clips on the rod to hold it in place. It's not easy to see, but with a light, you'll see where it is through a couple of different holes in the inside panel. Is the window currently up or down? If it's down (inside the door) you won't be able to get to it. The window has to be all the way up to get to it.
As far as the window motor, I'd try it out before replacing it, but that's just me. Do a search on replacing the motor, you don't have to remove the regulator, just the motor. It's been covered a ton regarding which motor to use and how to do it.
excellent I'll slide the window up and take a close look at the clips, are these pryded apart w/ a small screw driver? I take a image of behind the cylinders linkage attachment.
I remember the rod is bent 90* then inserts into the plastic rod holder is this where to press out at?
I've done the electric door engine swap so I'm kindof farminarl w/ it's procedure.
I was usually able to get it to come loose with my fingers. You just push it off the rod. Once you get a look at it, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Here's a generic pic of a lock cylinder, but it's got the same clip on the end I'm talking about. The red part is what spins around the rod and locks on. You just push it on or off.
good news I got the lock cylinder out w/out tearing it apart, I didn't need to roll the window down I was able to get off w/ my fingernail kindof pulled back on clip part then upward out the hole was easy.
bad news is this door is long and heavy maybe my floor jack will hold it in place because I'm doing this door on my own if I can. I just completed the front bumper which I've done a few times previously , never done a complete door swap.thanks for advice
more good news Mission accomplished well the heavey lifting is done so to speak off.
I’m very pleased w/ being able to swap the door, well at least it’s mounted and the fit is excellent except for the small gap inbetween the front fender and the larger gap at the ¾ panel.
Next the electric motor will indeed need swapping. Door opens and closes fine hopefully I can loosen the front fender and adjust forward or should the door be adjusted rearward?
So now I’m asking about fitment and adjustment procedures. thanks Guy;s for advice
edit: another observation is the lower rear of door appears to be sticking out a tad or and I mistaken.
It's a matter of sliding the door back and forth with the mounting bolts loosened up a touch to get it right. It's kind of a trial and error thing. Tighten them, see how it looks. Loosen a bit, move, tighten, see how it looks. Best done with another person to help so the door doesn't keep moving on you. Bribe someone w/ a 6 pack to help you.
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Please need tips on installing a 4th gen door. 
