badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

my car 99 TA bright silver metallic
what is more accurate to color match orginal color
using the VIN# or door lable

or a camera.

also seriously confussed why 1/2 pint of color (supreme one step down from the diamond) from BASF that includes the reducer is only $12.

where the PPG 1/2 pint is $115. and it doesn't include the reducer?

I wanted the same Dupont used ten years ago for a fender and headlight.
is the co. that took over Dupont Exaltar still making quality paint?
Thanks for any tips.

Bandit2000

iTrader: (1)

A camera will always be the most accurate way of getting the color for your car. Basically every car has variants in the paint. So your car could have 4 or 5 variants of the same silver and if you just got a code match then it might be a shade or two off. Always do a straight camera read. Where I go to pick up paint I have the option of leaving a panel/gas door overnight or I can do a camera read where they do two or three shots of the gas door and get the color. Just make sure you clean the area the best you can so they get a correct read.


Also the reason why PPG is so expensive is because it is some of the highest quality paint that you can buy. Every brand of paint will eventually fail, but some will fail earlier then others. You get what you pay for. Also you need to match the clear with the paint. Cheaper clear is going to look like **** and be hazy, foggy, and will yellow so understand that too when making your purchase.


Dupont is still a good brand of paint. I actually just picked up a 1/2 pint can of dupont for a Subaru the other day, and it looks great, but it's only been on the car for a day or so.


Personally when I eventually repaint my car I will be getting PPG or Diamont. It's expensive but I want the paint and clear to last for a long time. I had my Trans Am completely resprayed with Diamont and it came out great. There probably are better brands but I don't want to shell out anymore for my paint job then I already am.


Last thing I want to say is that I'm not the painter. I'm just the prep guy, I sand **** and pick up paint so I don't know everything there is to know, and someone on here might say I'm full of ****. But this is what I do know and have been picked up over time. So I hope it's been of some help. If you got anymore questions I'll ask my guy for you.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

yes please ask you'r man if the Exaltar is the same quality paint as Dupont.

and can I use the leftover chromobase base maker w/ the Exalter color.
I've stored the quart can in a household closet for about 11 years the Lady at carquest paint sniffed it and said it can still be used like it wasn't rotten I think she got a buz.

the Lady at the carquest told me that using the VIN # will take out the 4 or 5 variants of the same silver and be a exact match for color and for metallic size flakes.

I have picked up a door from a LStech member he usalley sends the smashed F-body body to the salvage however he saw my wanted to buy and saved me a nice door thanks Robbie up in Huntsville ,AL.


I believe the door was stored outside because it was covered in red clay deposits it looks like a nice door however it was coered w/ a shrink wrape type material that folks use to winterize boats.

I have spent some time peeling of the shrink wrape and the side impact protection I used a hair dryer to heat the adhesive then just pull.

I want to do as much as I can to prepare the door for paint the painter really appreciates this and it also lets him know how much I like this car.

so I would like a few tips on prepping the door. I'm supplying the paint,reducer and CC.is there a clean solution that will remove the
Georgia red clay or can I just wash the door w/ regular car wash soap?

also the shrimk wrape and the door protecter has left some glue reside I have some goof off can I use this to remove the glue reside or should I just wash the door w/ car soap and let the painter totalley clean the door prior to paint.

edit I want to either peel back or totalley remove the outside windoor seal can I use a flat head screw driver to pry out the rubber inserts holding the seal? or will I need a special tool?
BTW that is a cool looking green/blue TA you have there congrates.
Thanks