Some surface rust
i had some surface rust on mine - nothing bad. I used the POR-15 system. i did mine 2 years ago, and it has not come back. Need to clean thoroughly and dry thoroughly.
i put mine on with foam brushes
i put mine on with foam brushes
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
I have been using POR15 on my '85 C10 and so far love the stuff. I have been using foam brushes too and after getting a quart size can, I have since been getting the pint size. It goes pretty far but dries quickly. I also drilled a hole in the can and put a bolt into. Easier to pour a little out of it instead of taking the lid off and trying to get it back on.
Been using POR15 for many years. Up here in the northeast Ohio rustbelt,it's difficult to keep things rust free. Get it on your skin/clothes,it's permanent,use lacquer thinner for skin immediately. Once cured/set on iron/steel,it's very tough and resistant. I mainly use it on rear ends. Doesn't work well on bare clean metal,needs to be treated with their 'etching' compound or wet the bare metal with water to create a natural orange patina. Interacting with a molecular rust surface is part of the curing process. A freshly opened can is very 'watery' and not thick like paint. Has excellent penetration.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Been using POR15 for many years. Up here in the northeast Ohio rustbelt,it's difficult to keep things rust free. Get it on your skin/clothes,it's permanent,use lacquer thinner for skin immediately. Once cured/set on iron/steel,it's very tough and resistant. I mainly use it on rear ends. Doesn't work well on bare clean metal,needs to be treated with their 'etching' compound or wet the bare metal with water to create a natural orange patina. Interacting with a molecular rust surface is part of the curing process. A freshly opened can is very 'watery' and not thick like paint. Has excellent penetration.
