Some surface rust
06-09-2017, 02:23 PM
#3
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08-19-2017, 12:18 PM
#5
I have been using POR15 on my '85 C10 and so far love the stuff. I have been using foam brushes too and after getting a quart size can, I have since been getting the pint size. It goes pretty far but dries quickly. I also drilled a hole in the can and put a bolt into. Easier to pour a little out of it instead of taking the lid off and trying to get it back on.
09-02-2017, 07:54 PM
#6
Been using POR15 for many years. Up here in the northeast Ohio rustbelt,it's difficult to keep things rust free. Get it on your skin/clothes,it's permanent,use lacquer thinner for skin immediately. Once cured/set on iron/steel,it's very tough and resistant. I mainly use it on rear ends. Doesn't work well on bare clean metal,needs to be treated with their 'etching' compound or wet the bare metal with water to create a natural orange patina. Interacting with a molecular rust surface is part of the curing process. A freshly opened can is very 'watery' and not thick like paint. Has excellent penetration.
09-07-2017, 07:46 AM
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Been using POR15 for many years. Up here in the northeast Ohio rustbelt,it's difficult to keep things rust free. Get it on your skin/clothes,it's permanent,use lacquer thinner for skin immediately. Once cured/set on iron/steel,it's very tough and resistant. I mainly use it on rear ends. Doesn't work well on bare clean metal,needs to be treated with their 'etching' compound or wet the bare metal with water to create a natural orange patina. Interacting with a molecular rust surface is part of the curing process. A freshly opened can is very 'watery' and not thick like paint. Has excellent penetration.