Learning to Paint
As far as guns, Stick with one of the HVLP low CFM models. Eastwood and DeVilbiss both have good "lower priced" guns. I believe I have the Eastwood Concours Pro that takes a lower CFM. Lower CFM will also help you get by with the smaller compressor.
Buy some cheap plastic saw horses and a bunch of 2x2 to make the stands you will need to stand pieces up for painting.
For practice I would head over to Harbor freight and buy one of their HVLP guns and then go to a big box store and buy a gallon of rust o leum. You can thin it with Acetone and it makes great cheap practice. Plus the stuff with a little hardener really is decent stuff for suspension and underbody components.
For Paint suggestions I stick with DuPont but I have friends that say PPG is just as good. Also, stay with the base coat/clear coat 2 part system. The single stage stuff should be relinquished to suspension or underbody stuff if you need that much attention to detail. They each have individual lines within them. For instance, Dupont has Nason which is lower end and typically used on daily driver stuff or they have ChromaPremier which is their high end and typically used on show cars. Their ChromaClear is arguably one of the best you can buy. I use that clear and it is good stuff, good, good stuff. There are lots of differences between those two lines but that's the easiest way to break it down.
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I have learned tons from all these guys. Practice will be your best tool for successful paint job.
30 gallon compressor is pushing it. It will be working overtime. Find a 60 gal 5hp for best results. Build a "cooling" section of tubing from compressor for water.
Don't forget you need a booth. What's your budget and goals? Need cleanliness and ventilation, large fans, etc. You're at least $1000 into this project on a budget.(compressor, guns, booth) 10k if you want a real booth
I had good results with Eastwood paint. Only issue, you are stuck with predetermined colors. No customs. I second tibo's reply, and practice, practice, practice!
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I want to chime in about compressors, you need to look at their capacity (ie 30gal etc) and their cfm output at specific PSI. Look at the gun you want and how much car you need to spray ask around and get a compressor 10-15% larger than what the math says. You definitely want a good water separation and filter system or else all the tips/tricks and experience in the world will not help you from getting trash in what could have been a beautiful paint job.
Also painting one panel at a time can help if you can't afford a big compressor but this only works on certain paints and paint types. If you have any flake, metallic or pearl in your paint you have to paint the car in one shot or else the panels may not look correctly. If your doing a single stage solid color as long as your painting with the same mixture and gun setup the paint should match but there is no guarantee's. Sometimes painting a panel on a different day (temp/humidity) or using different spray patterns can affect how the paint looks.
Any painter will also tell you prep work is 90% of the job, doing the sanding in the correct stages, keep the area your painting super clean. Read the data sheets for the products you are using from your base layers to the top layer and make sure you follow their instructions! Since your a new painter you are going to get some trash in the paint it happens even with pro painters in a pro booth, there are ways to fix this.
I'm not a fan of Kevin Tetz personally but he is actually a good teacher for a novice, watch his youtube videos or buy his dvd's you can learn alot and build a good foundation of knowledge to work from.
SPI paints has a good forum with a lot of unbiased info. Check out the manual & perfect paint writeup under products on homepage. Products priced good next to others that they compare to, but are limited on their own color choices.
Different products can have different intended uses & their use & temperature range can be specific. Different brands have differences in use. There are cheap , better & best ways to do things. Their will be many different opinions on how to do things, but on some procedures that are consistant common knowledge ,beware about straying from them.
Much better to stick with sold colors, rather than metallic , or especially pearl & tri-color finishes. Though black takes better bodywork, the color itself is more forgiving as far as matching, being sprayed evenly, etc. Red, even solid is a little more difficult & pigments more costly.
If you get the proper bodywork, primer & thick enough paint layed down properly, even though a little rough on finish, color sanding & buffing skills can make up for it. Most all the best jobs get sanded down & buffed for a flat finish.
Even a newbie can be capable of a great first paint job studying up for a while & listening to good advise, But at some point you need to narrow down what you read, particularly on products & who you talk to to in order to have your own method & not be so confused.
At the end of the day, just remember it's just paint.
One more thing, there are good single stage paints for solid colors & can be hard to detect from bc/cc, even next to each other when all clean, though the single stage will take a little more maintenance. Cheaper paint , like nason, can look nearly as good after finishing, but will not last near as long in the elements.
This is an older pic of mine with the main body done in DuPont chroma bc/cc, the bedlid in nason ss, & the front nose, fenders, & hood in nason ss, covered with cheap nason clear, See any difference in a pic?
best bet is find someone to teach you to prep. once you master that hire a painter as a side job to hose it down for you.
secondary to prepping is the edging of the parts. there is where you learn to mix paint and clear and spray. body shops discard parts all teh time
if you want to score a hood to mess with. get one that has been hailed on and either do nothing with the dents, or pave them over with mud and keep learning.
your local community college may have some refinishing courses to get you up to speed faster.









