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I want to repaint my 2000 firebird the paint isn't too bad but it has alot of rock chips, scratches and some defects I can't remove by polishing.
The car is black now but I want to paint it tamco toxicity pearl green.
Do you guys think i should strip the car to bare metal or scuff and shoot?
Either way I plan to spray high build epoxy primer in white as a base.
Also i plan to replace the sail pan cause i have the bubbling issue and im going to pull the engine, doors, bumpers, hood and paint off car.
I already compounded and polished the hood and the first Pic was the best I could get it.
The scratches in pics are down to primer and not sure what that hazyness on the hood line is bit wouldn't come out.
I already compounded and polished the hood and the first Pic was the best I could get it.
The scratches in pics are down to primer and not sure what that hazyness on the hood line is bit wouldn't come out.
looks like oxidation, which usually needs re paint. sand 320, 400, then 600. Then wipe down with wax/grease remover (VERY IMPORTANT). Then use a tac cloth (VERY IMPORTANT). You can use a HVLP gun even with a 28 gallon compressor. I've had great results with SpeedoKote jet black 2k.
keep in mind black can be a bitch to match other body panels. if ur gonna paint TAKE YOUR TIME on the prep. Painting is the easy part. the prep needs to be perfect. use electric sander and sanding blocks.
You think it's safe to paint over existing paint?
should I spray a high build epoxy primer and block sand that or just block sand existing paint?
New paint will stick to old paint better than primer on bare metal.. assuming paint is in decent shape I would always choose paint over stripping... that said epoxy as a sealer is not a bad idea..
I would also wipe it down with that degreaser mentioned above BEFORE and AFTER sanding.. that way you don't work any crap down into the sand scratches...
I'm leaning toward da sanding whole car down with 320 grit and than spraying high build primer.
Than block sanding primer 320, 400, 600.
Would it be ready for paint after that or should I spray a sealer before basecoat?
I am no expert by any means, and while particular I am not patient enough for those million dollar show car paint jobs, so take what I say with that in mind...
Looking at your pictures I would focus on the scratches you need to fill with your high build primer.. block the whole car with 600 then epoxy prime.. this will give you a sealer and good bond I think. and a lot less work than all that sanding..
So I'm retired and help a local body shop two days a week. I'm the king of block sanding on their resto projects. Latest project is a 89 Chev OBS 1500. No rust but it needed a complete repaint. Original paint.
So we I mean I under the owners direction started with 180 grit on a long/curved block as needed on the original paint. Then 320 grit on a long/curved block.
Then 2K primer. Then as above 180 and then 320. Then one more round with 2K. 180 and 320 on a block. Then 320 DA on a soft pad. Yeah it's a lot of sanding if you want it to be straight.
It may sound like a lot of primer but 90% get sanded off. Yes on the sealer.
Then three coats of base coat. Three coats of clear.
First cut on the clear is with 1000 wet with a flex pad. The 1000 knocks down the orange peal. Then 1500 wet with a flex pad. Them 3000 on a really flex pad. As you sand the 3000 you can see the shine coming back.
Pic of my 68 C10 the local body shop "let" me do all the skim coating sanding, poly sanding and 2k sanding. Along with the color sanding. Tons of hours that is really good for the shoulder muscles. Prior to any body work I stripped all metal down to bare metal.
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What grit for repaint? 
