Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

HOK or PPG Paint?

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by melchoir
I work for PPG, and would get a discount, so I'd go with them personally.
I didnt know that
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:26 PM
  #22  
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House of kolor is the only paint company that designs their paint to be up to 15 mils in thickness which is about 4 times the factory paint job. So if you plan on doing graphics or any kind of job that requires several different colors layered then I would seriously think about going with HOK.

Generally speaking I could tell you which colors on cars are painted with HOK. The color is much more rich and vibrant than most brands. With 98% of the pigment being organic HOK is not cutting any corners and therefore they also cost a lot more than PPG. While PPG would be a much better choice for production work it isnt along the same lines of HOK when it comes to custom paint.

Like it has been said already. If its a daily then go with PPG, if its a weekend cruiser that you plan to take care of go with HOK.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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HOK here, gorgeous colors. the clear I used seems to chip really REALLY easily I need to do a repaint of the back of the car, does anyone have a good suggestion for a tough clearcoat? My dad backed into it, right after I snap wheel studs and f- up the wheelwell.

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 67RSCamaroVette
HOK here, gorgeous colors. the clear I used seems to chip really REALLY easily I need to do a repaint of the back of the car, does anyone have a good suggestion for a tough clearcoat? My dad backed into it, right after I snap wheel studs and f- up the wheelwell.

which clear did you shoot and what was your application method along with how many coats?
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 12:18 AM
  #25  
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My truefire is HOK, and the clear is Dupont.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by stryker14
which clear did you shoot and what was your application method along with how many coats?
3 coats HOK-01 base white

dust adhesion promoter

4 coats Cinnamon Pearl

3 medium coats UC-35 clear

i've had it where I shut the car door and a chip flies off the edge
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 67RSCamaroVette
HOK here, gorgeous colors. the clear I used seems to chip really REALLY easily I need to do a repaint of the back of the car, does anyone have a good suggestion for a tough clearcoat? My dad backed into it, right after I snap wheel studs and f- up the wheelwell.


I just had mine cleared with Dupont about 2 weeks ago. The body shop clears all of their custom jobs with dupont. They have kicked out some sweet rides. THey have some show cars and some DD cars, 72 Mach 1 and 68 camaro SS come to mind. They are sweet. Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 06:58 AM
  #28  
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I would love to get a test panel sprayed, but since I'm in Afghanistan it will be kind of hard, or at least prolong the process for the week or two it took to mail it. I will definitely keep that in mind though.

I went through the PPG book last night and have one I really like. Going through the HOK book tonight. Gonna have to get the books out into the sunlight though so I can really see what it'll look like.

Generally speaking, when comparing a chip to the actual car, does the whole car look darker or lighter when painted because of the size?
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 04:36 PM
  #29  
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Roll Tide your car looks amazing. You all need to stop talking about this stuff because I'm thinking I need to step up and repaint my car a lot sooner than I planned
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 67RSCamaroVette
3 coats HOK-01 base white

dust adhesion promoter

4 coats Cinnamon Pearl

3 medium coats UC-35 clear

i've had it where I shut the car door and a chip flies off the edge
Well I was gonna say if you went over 3 coats before sanding and recoating that could have caused an issue with the UC-35. Since you did not it could be two problems off the top of my head... bad batch of clear and/or hardner or improper mixing which would most likely be too much hardner. While UC-35 is not known as the most durable clear out there it is known for its high gloss and depth. I have sprayed many clears and none have met my expectations like the 35 does when it comes to gloss. It may not be bullet proof but what your describing sounds like a problem. I would point my finger at those possible explanations that I have mentioned.
For what its worth I have sprayed a bunch of motorcycles with UC-35 and none have come back with any rock chips or the like so that does say something for its durability.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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could it be that the primer's the problem? when it chips, its always down to the primer.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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oh, and I didn't sand it before I recoated.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 07:30 AM
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My paint chips very easily and all the way down to the base coat of the pewter. Now I have a problem of the pinstriping is pulling away from the flames or the flames are pulling away. Whatever it is there is now a 1/8" gap in a couple places on the hood. Also I dont think the painter put enough flex agent in because the slightest tap on my front gfx makes the gfx and into the bumper crack and actually peel in big pieces . The paint on the hood is just about 3 years old and I think it should hold up longer then that. THe painter has helpers do work and I think they did the last one...who knows but I bet he won't do anything about it. Im pretty disgusted with the work done

BTW Styker I have the paint code for the Porsche. It is Orangerot and it's L198
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 08:01 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 01 Red WS6
Roll Tide your car looks amazing. You all need to stop talking about this stuff because I'm thinking I need to step up and repaint my car a lot sooner than I planned
Thanks man! If it ever stops raining I'll post some outdoor pics... i have the wheels and tires on now too and I'm dying to take some pics.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 11:15 AM
  #35  
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i was goin to use hok on my bike, but my distributer recomended i went with the ppg vibrance, for its overal durability compared to hok, i heard the ppg was more then hok in price, but i dont know, cause i didnt have to price it out, sponsership is great, although i did gather that most places have to special order your hok, colers tints etc, but with the vibrance a good paint shop should have everything to mix it on site
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by redramair98
i was goin to use hok on my bike, but my distributer recomended i went with the ppg vibrance, for its overal durability compared to hok, i heard the ppg was more then hok in price, but i dont know, cause i didnt have to price it out, sponsership is great, although i did gather that most places have to special order your hok, colers tints etc, but with the vibrance a good paint shop should have everything to mix it on site
PPG is not cheap. I cant speak for HoK as Ive never used them. From what Ive heard PPG's D884 (Global line) is not only has the most gloss (in the PPG line up) but its the most durable. I know it gets hard because I messed around and waited three weeks before I cut and buff. And wow, did I ever pay for it.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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I like using ppg base covers alot better then house of kolor and then go with hok candy and then ppg global clear. I dont really like hok bases or clears. Have you used ppg candy a few times but that **** is real expensive. I get hok candy, hardner and reducer for around 220. Ppg candy is way more then that. Also the hok candy covers better then ppg and noticed it lasts alittle longer in the texas sun.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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i always try to cut a car down the next day or two after i apint it with some 1000 then let it set up a few more then 1500 and 2000 it, but thats only if i have the car long enough, how can i post a few pics of my car on here it was painted liek 3 years ago and looks like it was done only months ago
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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I'd go for HOK. We've had many things painted over the years and each one comes out stunning.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 67RSCamaroVette
could it be that the primer's the problem? when it chips, its always down to the primer.
If it chips all the way down to your primer, taking basecoat with it, then it is a problem with your base. Your weakest link is the last layer that chips off therefore being the base coat. Did you use a sealer before spraying base or did you go over sanded primer? How heavy were you spraying the base coat? I can tell you that if its chipping off down to the primer that it isnt the clear that you are having problems with it is the basecoat. Either the mechanical bond wasnt good enough assuming you sprayed over sanded primer or your flash times over the sealer were to short or way too long.
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