Rattle canning engine bay.
#21
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Originally Posted by socmguy
****** AMAZING job man! I have the same problem. It seems in my cars past a battery had leaked and fucked everything up. I hate the way my engine bay looks now and I love popping my hood at get togethers but hate when people notice. I'm seriously considering giving this a try. If you can give any more pointers I'm all ears man. How to remove rust and prep for paint?
#24
Originally Posted by socmguy
****** AMAZING job man! I have the same problem. It seems in my cars past a battery had leaked and fucked everything up. I hate the way my engine bay looks now and I love popping my hood at get togethers but hate when people notice. I'm seriously considering giving this a try. If you can give any more pointers I'm all ears man. How to remove rust and prep for paint?
I did not have any rust when I started just spots where the acid had cut down to the primer from the battery leaking.
I removed the lid, radiator support and removed the battery and the battery hold down which is also one piece together with the overflow bottle. I took a canvas tarp and covered the motor. I taped the edges around where the lights mount to the cross beam and taped the sides edges where the fenders end along the inside under the hood. I used aluminum foil to cover the hard to tape or weird shaped items under the hood such as the fuse boxes and wires, brake lines and controler.
I sanded the heck out of the areas that had acid on it, then made sure it was a smooth transition from the spots that were now down to the metal versus the areas adjacent to the spills where I was still on the factory paint.
Then it was pretty much as I said before I primed it sanded, clean it up, painted it, wet sanded, clean it up, painted again, let it dry for a day or so then waxed. Like I said before I do not know if this is the best way to do it. It was my first time really painting anything but I am very pleased with the results.
I also did the wire mod at this time and relocated the ground wires. I filled in the holes with bondo which wasn't a good idea but so far they have been fine except for one which popped out, I simply went and bought a stainless hex button head bolt sanded it down and painted it white to match, then used a nut and bolted it in the hole. If you look closely you can see it on the passenger side wheel well.
#25
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I personally dont like the look/ finish of spray paint, and it definatly doesnt hold up as well, ive painted many motors, trannys and rearends, and its all held up much better then spray, even with the heat and chemical mishaps
Then again im a custom painter for a living, so i know its not practical for everyone
Etch primer is good for BARE surfaces, i wouldnt do the whole engine bay with etch, etch is meant to be put on very thin, almost transparent, and should never be used as a filler, or surfacer.
If you guys want a good color match, go to your nearest paint supply place with your paint code, and they can mix you aerosol cans of the color, they go for 20 bucks here.And top it off with some good high end clear, i would let that sit more then a day, i would give it about a week, and sand any dirt nibs with 2500 grit, and get some rubbing compound and rags ( not paper towel) and rub out where u sanded, your gonna have to rub alot, could you use a buffer, yes you could but i feel a novice, combined with the sharp edges, and rattle can clear would burn through, so slow, high grit sand papers, and hand rubbing will be alot friendier to people that are new to this.
Then again im a custom painter for a living, so i know its not practical for everyone
Etch primer is good for BARE surfaces, i wouldnt do the whole engine bay with etch, etch is meant to be put on very thin, almost transparent, and should never be used as a filler, or surfacer.
If you guys want a good color match, go to your nearest paint supply place with your paint code, and they can mix you aerosol cans of the color, they go for 20 bucks here.And top it off with some good high end clear, i would let that sit more then a day, i would give it about a week, and sand any dirt nibs with 2500 grit, and get some rubbing compound and rags ( not paper towel) and rub out where u sanded, your gonna have to rub alot, could you use a buffer, yes you could but i feel a novice, combined with the sharp edges, and rattle can clear would burn through, so slow, high grit sand papers, and hand rubbing will be alot friendier to people that are new to this.
#26
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Here are some pictures of my progress, I don't really like the spray paint quality. I went with flat black, What do you guys think should i use a clear on it? I also didn't sand the primer all that great.
The rest
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0080.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0079.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0076.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0075.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0074.jpg
The rest
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0080.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0079.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0076.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0075.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/IMG_0074.jpg
#28
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I don't like it, I was looking at it right now and the paint dosn't seem to want to stick. It kind of becomes dusty/bumpy when it hits the primer. Maybe its the prep that sucked, I sanded it down with a electric sander and primered.