Got a new bumper about to paint it.
Got a new bumper about to paint it. The primer that comes on the new bumpers is it much good? Would you guys just scuff it then seal and paint? About to start workin on this tomorrow just tryin to decide if I want to just scuff it or wetsand it with 360 and go from there. This is for my friends car.
if it has oem primer i take a d/a and 400 grit and d/a everything dry and then a red 3m scotch brite pad dry to scuff everything else then i use sealer then basecoat clearcoat. for bare plastic bumpers i wash the entire bumper then i use a scuffing paste from standox or spies and hekker and a gold scotch brite pad to scuff everything then wash it again.
Heres what im thinkin wetsand with 400 being careful not to sand down to the urethane then the areas i dont get to ill scuff then seal. I could use the DA but there isnt much area it will get too and I feel I can get it smoother by wetsanding.
One of my other bumpers I did like this I took it down to the urethane tho. It turned out smooth as glass.
Wet sand 360
adhesion promoter
k36
block
seal
base
clear
One of my other bumpers I did like this I took it down to the urethane tho. It turned out smooth as glass.
Wet sand 360
adhesion promoter
k36
block
seal
base
clear
Last edited by SpdFrk1990; Mar 2, 2008 at 05:48 PM.
We just use a gray scotchbrite pad and a sanding paste wet. Seal and paint. That is for new OEM bumpers. On aftermarket ones we sand with 500 wet first the go over it again with gray scotchbrite and sanding paste then seal and paint.
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Ide sand it all down with 360 wet getting all the scratches out then seal and repaint. Mine on my SS has some spider marks so I got to go down pretty far b4 I repaint it. With this new bumper then I think 400 might be a little too rough still think im gonna go with 600 and scuff then seal/paint.
if its new use a dry red scothc brite pad scuff it adhesion promote it eopoxy seal it and base coat clear coat, done hundreds of bumpers, that by far is still the best way to do it, used bumper just wet sand it with 400 or 600 depending on coler, and base coat clear coat it
if its new use a dry red scothc brite pad scuff it adhesion promote it eopoxy seal it and base coat clear coat, done hundreds of bumpers, that by far is still the best way to do it, used bumper just wet sand it with 400 or 600 depending on coler, and base coat clear coat it
yeah i forgot about the adhesion promotor dur lol. somewhere you will go through to the urethane theres really not much you can do about it. oem primer is thin on the edges. my first shop that i worked at when i prepped new bumpers with oem primer we just used a red scuff pad sealed it and so forth. now we use a d/a 400 and then a red scuff pad to get where the d/a couldnt.
Sweet I found this online think it was written by 3M so I think this is the route ill go.
Preparation of New Primed Plastic Parts
Though new primed parts do not need the application of an adhesion promoter, they do need to be cleaned using the three-step method (hot soapy water, isopropyl alcohol, and wax-and-grease remover). The primer should be scuffed with a gray abrasive pad and sanding paste, water-rinsed, and then re-cleaned with wax-and-grease remover. At this point the anti-static agent should be applied. If the part has no bare plastic showing through the primer, adhesion promoter does not need to be applied. The application of color coat and clearcoat then proceeds the same as on other parts.
Preparation of New Primed Plastic Parts
Though new primed parts do not need the application of an adhesion promoter, they do need to be cleaned using the three-step method (hot soapy water, isopropyl alcohol, and wax-and-grease remover). The primer should be scuffed with a gray abrasive pad and sanding paste, water-rinsed, and then re-cleaned with wax-and-grease remover. At this point the anti-static agent should be applied. If the part has no bare plastic showing through the primer, adhesion promoter does not need to be applied. The application of color coat and clearcoat then proceeds the same as on other parts.
SPDFRK1990 has got right for the most part. The cleaning is very important! You want to remove any mold release from the bumper (the hot soapy water). The antistatic rinse is important, especially on metalics and pearls, this helps better orientate them for a more consistant application/color match. Plastic developes a lot of static charge! Tack between coats and use a quality sealer, this promotes adhesion and "smooths" things out if applied correctly. Don't forget flex additive wherever it is reccomended by the paint manufacture, you don't want all your hard work and that beautiful paint job cracking.
SPDFRK1990 has got right for the most part. The cleaning is very important! You want to remove any mold release from the bumper (the hot soapy water). The antistatic rinse is important, especially on metalics and pearls, this helps better orientate them for a more consistant application/color match. Plastic developes a lot of static charge! Tack between coats and use a quality sealer, this promotes adhesion and "smooths" things out if applied correctly. Don't forget flex additive wherever it is reccomended by the paint manufacture, you don't want all your hard work and that beautiful paint job cracking.
Ide sand it all down with 360 wet getting all the scratches out then seal and repaint. Mine on my SS has some spider marks so I got to go down pretty far b4 I repaint it. With this new bumper then I think 400 might be a little too rough still think im gonna go with 600 and scuff then seal/paint.