Key Scratch
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
Key Scratch Ok some ******* keyed my passanger side from front fender to rear quarter panel 
. My finger nail sinks in the scratch so i take it is deep! So i went to get a est. and they want about $1400 to fix it (O HELL NO)! So my dad and i decide to do it ourselves next month. Also it is not to the metal so its not rusting at all! My question is how hard is it to blend it all together when it is ready to paint (after proper prep)?
. My finger nail sinks in the scratch so i take it is deep! So i went to get a est. and they want about $1400 to fix it (O HELL NO)! So my dad and i decide to do it ourselves next month. Also it is not to the metal so its not rusting at all! My question is how hard is it to blend it all together when it is ready to paint (after proper prep)? Dr. Pookey,
I'm guessing your car is red, a difficult color to match. If your scratch is into the base I would wet sand with 400 grit a couple of inches past the scratch. You're feather edging at this point. You could sand the rest of the of the clear area with 1000. I reccomend using a 9" block and sand in several directions including 45 degrees to the scratch. You can then blend in some primer surfacer over the 400 grit area. Don't worry if the primer surfacer falls away from the repair area, you are going to block again prior to paint. You can reverse mask past the repair slightly to contain the over spray.
Picking the right varince for your color code is crucial if you are going to blend your base, you can also put one coat of base on all the panels on your last coat of base. I reccomend a sealer preferably the same color the factory used (probably gray) prior to base coat application. This helps the paint match. Then clear all the panels as you normally would. Then wet sand and buff if necessary. Good luck!
I'm guessing your car is red, a difficult color to match. If your scratch is into the base I would wet sand with 400 grit a couple of inches past the scratch. You're feather edging at this point. You could sand the rest of the of the clear area with 1000. I reccomend using a 9" block and sand in several directions including 45 degrees to the scratch. You can then blend in some primer surfacer over the 400 grit area. Don't worry if the primer surfacer falls away from the repair area, you are going to block again prior to paint. You can reverse mask past the repair slightly to contain the over spray.
Picking the right varince for your color code is crucial if you are going to blend your base, you can also put one coat of base on all the panels on your last coat of base. I reccomend a sealer preferably the same color the factory used (probably gray) prior to base coat application. This helps the paint match. Then clear all the panels as you normally would. Then wet sand and buff if necessary. Good luck!
Yeah basically what he said. sand the scratch out paint. Not sure if you need to prims I would if you had to sand down to the metal or plastic. And paint then clear the whole panel or door or whatever then buff if you have too and know how but wait about a week to buff for the clear to cure
TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: Texas...that says it all
Red IS hard to match. My question would be have either you or your father ever done anything like this? If this isn't your area you may want to look around for someone who can do it on the side. It will cheaper and hopefully come out good. If you were in SA then I could get my husband to hook you up. Hope you get it done correctly.
Ok some ******* keyed my passanger side from front fender to rear quarter panel . My finger nail sinks in the scratch so i take it is deep! So i went to get a est. and they want about $1400 to fix it (O HELL NO)! So my dad and i decide to do it ourselves next month. Also it is not to the metal so its not rusting at all! My question is how hard is it to blend it all together when it is ready to paint (after proper prep)?
. My finger nail sinks in the scratch so i take it is deep! So i went to get a est. and they want about $1400 to fix it (O HELL NO)! So my dad and i decide to do it ourselves next month. Also it is not to the metal so its not rusting at all! My question is how hard is it to blend it all together when it is ready to paint (after proper prep)?
yeah just do what greg campbell said and you should be fine $1400 is wayy to much.. do you have any pics of it so we can see the severity of it?
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: jenkintown, pa/cleveland, oh
is it past the clear coat, base coat, or all the way to the primer? if you got lucky and its just the clear coat, dab on some clear touch up paint, wet sand, buff n polish like normal. your good to go. or if its down to the base, touch up with base coat, wet sand, then dab on your clear, wet sand, and buff and polish. all of this with 1500 grit should be good.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
another thing about red is its expensive, the reason being is red is not a synthetic color they use real red rock to make the color, I think red is the only non synthetic color. What the body shop was probably gonna do is just paint that whole side of the car, thats what they did for me. Well good luck with it anyways!
