How to paint!!!!!!!!!
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
How to paint!!!!!!!!! Alright.. help me out here. I can paint well and I just did my hood but its got a ton of orange peel. BTW I also guessed on the mixing ratios.. my main concern is how to colorsand and then clearcoat
What are the steps after painting(colorsanding.. etc..clear)
What are the steps after painting(colorsanding.. etc..clear)
OK first off guessing on the ratios for someone who doesn't do this all the time is not the best idea. So are you saying you did your basecoat and it's got bad orange peel? If so, you can very carefully water sand it with some 1000 then clean it and degrease it and hit it with a tack rag prior to shooting another light coat of base then your clear. Normally you should be able to shoot the clear as soon as the base flashes off (no linger shiny). Get the data sheets for your paint and get some mixing cups so you can have the proper ratios.
EDIT: BTW there are some good links in the stickies above.....
EDIT: BTW there are some good links in the stickies above.....
isnt it a 1:1 ratio for basecoat/reducer and a 4:1 ratio for the clear/hardener? I think thats what i did when i painted some, now for the orange peel, hit it with some 1000 grit wetsand using a spray bottle with a small amount of dish soap, make sure you keep the area well wet while you sand but dont over due it or you will get the paint running. Wipe it down and degrease it. Then another coat of base and after that flashes, about 10-15 minutes i think. You put your first coat of clear on it. Wait 10 minutes between each coat of clear. Then you let it harden over night and clear sand the whole thing, same as wetsand, mist the area down with a spray bottle, start with 1200 grit, then 1500 then 2k grit. Make sure you dont get any little bits of sand on the paper as it will scratch the clear.
Teching In
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From: Northwest Indiana
All paint is different. Call PPG for data. Actually, it should be on the cans. I've only used Martin Senour products since I started painting at 16. Never had orange peel in a basecoat though..
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
You can't be guessing on your ratios man. You also cannot colorsand basecoat and then clear it, expecting it to match, cause it won't.
Clear coat is meant to go over fresh basecoat (applied in 24 hrs or less) and nothing should touch that basecoat except for a tack rag. If you have a bunch ov orange peel on the base - STOP, sand it down with 600 grit (preferably wet) and make sure the paint you have already applied has hardened before you apply more paint.
after you have sand the orange peel out with a sanding block (not your hand) get your ratios right and shoot the base. It should turn out smooth- if it doesn't, you either can't paint or your equipment sucks or both. Wait 30 mins for the base to flash off, then apply your clear as the manufacturer recommends (amount of coats varies per manufacturer).
Then when you are all done, let the hood sit for about 24 hours. Then get some 1500 and 2000 grit wet sandpaper. Wet sand the clear until it is flat, then buff it out with 3M rubbing compund until you get a high luster shine. Then go over it with machine glaze, then swirl remover if you need it. Don't wax it for about 4-6 weeks as to not trap any solvents in the paint. Curing takes a month or more depending on your climate.
Hope this helps.
Clear coat is meant to go over fresh basecoat (applied in 24 hrs or less) and nothing should touch that basecoat except for a tack rag. If you have a bunch ov orange peel on the base - STOP, sand it down with 600 grit (preferably wet) and make sure the paint you have already applied has hardened before you apply more paint.
after you have sand the orange peel out with a sanding block (not your hand) get your ratios right and shoot the base. It should turn out smooth- if it doesn't, you either can't paint or your equipment sucks or both. Wait 30 mins for the base to flash off, then apply your clear as the manufacturer recommends (amount of coats varies per manufacturer).
Then when you are all done, let the hood sit for about 24 hours. Then get some 1500 and 2000 grit wet sandpaper. Wet sand the clear until it is flat, then buff it out with 3M rubbing compund until you get a high luster shine. Then go over it with machine glaze, then swirl remover if you need it. Don't wax it for about 4-6 weeks as to not trap any solvents in the paint. Curing takes a month or more depending on your climate.
Hope this helps.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Regular
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
Right now its pretty warm across the states so regular products for medium climates should be fine.
He didnt say when or where he got his supplies from.. Humidity scale should always be used in the paint room.
yeah most companies have different mixing ratios. like standox for me is 1:60% even though some do 1:1 which on some colors will leave it super thin. but depending on the company they will be different. also there are harders and reducers that range from extra slow all the way to extra fast depending on the temperature. using a fast hardner when its hot out could result in the basecoat or clear coat or primer or sealer or whatever your spraying not getting proper flash time, a lot of orange peel and could result in solvent pop. if you color sand the basecoat you could use anywhere from 600-3000 if your want but usually 600-1200 is a good range to stay with. if you dont get a lot of orange peel and just some dirt use like 1000 to sand the knibs of dirt out. if you get a lot of peel use 600 and a block to wetsand the whole panel. after you wetsand it make sure its dry, and clean the panel to get rid of the contaminents, tach it off and spray a couple coats of base on the panel again to ensure that you have coverage. after your done with the basecoat let it flash off for 15 minutes depending on the paint manufactuer and then clear it.
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Its 4.1.1 thanks guys
NOW.. I was told this was single stage paint. The paint that I did temporary looked pretty damn good. I dont know what single stage is but yeah IDK. Im going to buy a nice porter cable one of these days and take my entire car apart.
WHAT SHOULD MY REGULATOR BE SET AT???
BTW here is what the rush job looks like. I just wanted it done for the car show
So I should repaint it, buy some clear, clear it, then buff it.. ok
NOW.. I was told this was single stage paint. The paint that I did temporary looked pretty damn good. I dont know what single stage is but yeah IDK. Im going to buy a nice porter cable one of these days and take my entire car apart.
WHAT SHOULD MY REGULATOR BE SET AT???
BTW here is what the rush job looks like. I just wanted it done for the car show
So I should repaint it, buy some clear, clear it, then buff it.. ok
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GOT ON THEIR WEBSITE!!
found all the info I needed. everything. all the sheets and pdfs. thanks guys. No more info needed. Soon as i get a buffer and some more tools im going to redo the hood, and buy some of their "extreme shine" clear I found for my type of paint
found all the info I needed. everything. all the sheets and pdfs. thanks guys. No more info needed. Soon as i get a buffer and some more tools im going to redo the hood, and buy some of their "extreme shine" clear I found for my type of paint
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what ppg system are you using
dbu is mixed 1;1 1/2 reactive reducer
dbc is mixed 1;1 dbc also uses dx57 mixed 5%
the ratio you posted looks like it is the ratio for 2042 or 2021, did you use dx61??
air pressure, fan pattern, to much material,
like the guys said base has to dry to be sanded i use 1,000, then re apply base, then clear, heat/humidity like they said is a big factor, we paint by the 15% degree rule, sound like you need allot more practice and experience in painting
dbu is mixed 1;1 1/2 reactive reducer
dbc is mixed 1;1 dbc also uses dx57 mixed 5%
the ratio you posted looks like it is the ratio for 2042 or 2021, did you use dx61??
air pressure, fan pattern, to much material,
like the guys said base has to dry to be sanded i use 1,000, then re apply base, then clear, heat/humidity like they said is a big factor, we paint by the 15% degree rule, sound like you need allot more practice and experience in painting
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
No clue bodyman. just go by the numbers that match my shopline product numbers. i got all the info off their site. as for practice i have had NONE.
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From: chicago
big problem right there a good combo tech knows his products/material he is working with, you need to know what you painting with is it what i posted above dbc or dbu
what clear are you using, yhou need to know what your working with you cant go painting blindly
thats the biggest first step, thats the first thing i was taught was to know what your working with
ya i can say single stage is allot more user friendly, and its now a urathene then what it was in the 80`s, but you not goin to get the shine the durability from a clear coat if you used single stage, base/clear is allot easier to use then single stage
you need allot more experience , people think what we do is so easy a monkey can do it
but like your having a problem then you come to find out oh **** its not so easy now is it
what clear are you using, yhou need to know what your working with you cant go painting blindly
thats the biggest first step, thats the first thing i was taught was to know what your working with
ya i can say single stage is allot more user friendly, and its now a urathene then what it was in the 80`s, but you not goin to get the shine the durability from a clear coat if you used single stage, base/clear is allot easier to use then single stage
you need allot more experience , people think what we do is so easy a monkey can do it
but like your having a problem then you come to find out oh **** its not so easy now is it
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Im not looking for show quality just a good durable shine till i get another DD and then have it shipped off. Im used to painting flat stuff( wwii military stuff) I got the specs on my base and they make somekind of extreme gloss clear for it .. so Im gonna get some of it and do some tests on my other hood thanks for the help guys
