Lowest Trans Am in the World - Radical Thinkers Only!!
05-31-2010, 12:31 PM
#501
I haven't touched the car in like 6 months other then cranking it up from time to time.
Lately I've been wanting to get back on it. I need to get a cheap fuel cell to put in the back so I can keep it runable. I'm torn between modding the stock rear suspension to go lower and just drive it like that, or to swap in the independant rear.
I'm also wondering whether to keep the rear seat or do something like this.
Here's a pic of a mini truck done super low. I plan to use the same tecniques, but not quite as extreme (no engine through hood for me). You just pop up the truck 4 to 5 inches and it's perfectly drivable.
Lately I've been wanting to get back on it. I need to get a cheap fuel cell to put in the back so I can keep it runable. I'm torn between modding the stock rear suspension to go lower and just drive it like that, or to swap in the independant rear.
I'm also wondering whether to keep the rear seat or do something like this.
Here's a pic of a mini truck done super low. I plan to use the same tecniques, but not quite as extreme (no engine through hood for me). You just pop up the truck 4 to 5 inches and it's perfectly drivable.
Last edited by JasonWW; 05-31-2010 at 02:07 PM.
05-31-2010, 04:36 PM
#502
So if we forget about the radical mid engine stuff and focus on what can be done on a small budget, we're looking at a choptop car with a radical suspension, fixed projector headlights and a reverse tilting hood. I'm going to do a widebody to it as well, but it might only be in the rear. I'm thinking about 3" wider per side. The entire fender will be wider, not a simple flare job and they will taper in to about the midway point of the door.
Since I'm doing this, it would be really easy for me to alter the wheelbase in the rear. Look at the overall car and tell me which wheelbase you guys think flows the best.
Since I'm doing this, it would be really easy for me to alter the wheelbase in the rear. Look at the overall car and tell me which wheelbase you guys think flows the best.
It might also be cool to do another rear bumper, remove the bumper support and get a bumper made that removes the 'shelf' on the rear, have it swoop down and a nice diffuser underneath.
05-31-2010, 08:16 PM
#505
That's not bad.
I gotta focus on one thing at a time, though. I need to get the car lower with more suspension work and that's gonna be a big job in itself. I'm at the point where every fraction of an inch is major work. It makes more sense to swap the IRS in now. Help me get started.
I need to make a budget for the swap:
I already have a complete IRS from a 97 T-bird. A new center section with lower gears and a limited slip tends to run $300 or so, but I'll stick to the stock 3.27 open diff for right now.
I figure no more than $200 to lengthen or shorten the drive shaft.
A steel T-bird driveshaft and a aluminum F-body driveshaft means I can't mix and match ends. I need to find out the u-joint sizes.
I can either redrill the ford hubs so I can bolt my Corvette style rims directly on or if the track width is a bit narrow, I can have adaptors machined. Either option is no more than $100.
Exhaust is out of the way right now.
I'll use T-bird shocks untill I can afford some sweet Konis for it. So $0 for now.
I'll use stock T-bird springs for now and swap over to air bags later. So $0 for now.
I'm gonna need square tubing and sheet metal, too. I'm gonna guestimate $200 and hopefully not more.
I can get a fuel cell for about $100, but swapping the stock sender into it along with the return line, etc... is gonna be custom work so I dont know what it might cost. Any thoughts on that?
I gotta focus on one thing at a time, though. I need to get the car lower with more suspension work and that's gonna be a big job in itself. I'm at the point where every fraction of an inch is major work. It makes more sense to swap the IRS in now. Help me get started.
I need to make a budget for the swap:
I already have a complete IRS from a 97 T-bird. A new center section with lower gears and a limited slip tends to run $300 or so, but I'll stick to the stock 3.27 open diff for right now.
I figure no more than $200 to lengthen or shorten the drive shaft.
A steel T-bird driveshaft and a aluminum F-body driveshaft means I can't mix and match ends. I need to find out the u-joint sizes.
I can either redrill the ford hubs so I can bolt my Corvette style rims directly on or if the track width is a bit narrow, I can have adaptors machined. Either option is no more than $100.
Exhaust is out of the way right now.
I'll use T-bird shocks untill I can afford some sweet Konis for it. So $0 for now.
I'll use stock T-bird springs for now and swap over to air bags later. So $0 for now.
I'm gonna need square tubing and sheet metal, too. I'm gonna guestimate $200 and hopefully not more.
I can get a fuel cell for about $100, but swapping the stock sender into it along with the return line, etc... is gonna be custom work so I dont know what it might cost. Any thoughts on that?
Last edited by JasonWW; 05-31-2010 at 08:26 PM.
06-02-2010, 03:26 AM
#513
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hey if u like it go 4 it i definately wanna see this thing finished keep it up.... hey look at it this way we wouldnt have alot of the things we use today everyday if people didnt dare to be different
