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OL vs. CL with LT's

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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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Default OL vs. CL with LT's

Hi all
I have a good tune with the WB of the VE and MAF.
I am currently using only the STFT's, LTFT's off.
With the LT's the nb 02's are not real accurate at idle, after you get going they read pretty well, I have tried the OL/CL tune, but mine stays in OL, is there any good reasons not to just run in OL?
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 05:35 AM
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I actually got my O2 sensors to switch decent at an idle with LT's and the vette o2 sensors. I had to set the CL IDLE O2 switch values to around 500-550. It was set around 125 or so from the factory. Your car may be different but just add 100 at a time until you see your o2's switching. How do you know your car is staying in open loop, and why do you have your LTFT's disabled?
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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 07:33 AM
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Disabling the LTFT's is one way people choose to tune on hptuners.com.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
I actually got my O2 sensors to switch decent at an idle with LT's and the vette o2 sensors. I had to set the CL IDLE O2 switch values to around 500-550. It was set around 125 or so from the factory. Your car may be different but just add 100 at a time until you see your o2's switching. How do you know your car is staying in open loop, and why do you have your LTFT's disabled?
The car is in OL when there is no fuel reading on the STFT, and yes I have LTFT off.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by tblu92
Wouldn't adding some to the switching table make it richer ? and with LT's it typically makes it richer anyway because of the 02 placement being further back--so you would need to subtract from the 02 switching point table to make it leaner--
That's what I thought, if anything I should lower them??
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Try replacing the 02s with downstream 02s out of a 01 Corvette.
As for the switching tables, they only change the switch point. Changing those tables will not make the 02s react any faster.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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You can try an OL idle tune ; it can work wonders
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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Sorry guys I gave you some bad info but I did not mean to change the o2 switch points as that only changes the AFR average switch point. The table you need to adjust is the Closed loop proportional idle airflow tables. I have mine set at 555 all the way across the table and my o2 sensors switch fine at an idle. Since the headers are further away you need to add more fuel to get the o2 sensors to switch properly.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
Sorry guys I gave you some bad info but I did not mean to change the o2 switch points as that only changes the AFR average switch point. The table you need to adjust is the Closed loop proportional idle airflow tables. I have mine set at 555 all the way across the table and my o2 sensors switch fine at an idle. Since the headers are further away you need to add more fuel to get the o2 sensors to switch properly.
My exhaust smells rich at idle, I would think I would need to lean it up.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 02WS6FREEBIRD
My exhaust smells rich at idle, I would think I would need to lean it up.
Your exhaust smells rich because you probably have no cats. Adding fuel to make the o2 sensors does not change your AFR. Try leaning out your idle to 15-16.5 AFR and the smell will go away. But if you want to get your o2 sensors to switch properly you will have to listen to what I said. Your nose and your o2 sensors are two very different sensors. Your o2 sensors are further down stream than their original location and do not get hot enough with the amount of idle fuel there. Go over to hptuners and you can read all about it, this isn't something new I invented. But if you trust your nose over your o2 sensors than do not even run in CL, idle your car in OL using power enrichment settings to idle at your desired AFR. Good luck.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
Your exhaust smells rich because you probably have no cats. Adding fuel to make the o2 sensors does not change your AFR. Try leaning out your idle to 15-16.5 AFR and the smell will go away. But if you want to get your o2 sensors to switch properly you will have to listen to what I said. Your nose and your o2 sensors are two very different sensors. Your o2 sensors are further down stream than their original location and do not get hot enough with the amount of idle fuel there. Go over to hptuners and you can read all about it, this isn't something new I invented. But if you trust your nose over your o2 sensors than do not even run in CL, idle your car in OL using power enrichment settings to idle at your desired AFR. Good luck.
1. I do have high flow cats about mid way (the only place we could get them on) and they DO heat up and really help with the smell.

2. I will try your first suggestion and I did try the OL idle/CL running using the PE settings and did it correct, but for some reason the car stays in OL and does not switch, actually every now and then it switches in to CL for a little bit then back to OL...does not work correctly.
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