Car runs for 2 secs & shuts down
01-01-2009, 11:22 AM
#21
Turned off VATS and it still has the same symtoms. I did however get a log of one of the longer times it would stay running. Another weird thing is happening when the car starts up and runs for the longer periods the idle goes pretty high like around 3k rpm and the guages including the tach dont move like they are dead and after about 3 seconds they come on and peg out and then they return to their normal positions like they will do when you have the battery disconnected and you reconnect it for the first time. I think this may be a hint as to whats going on but I dont know what it means exactly.
Anyway here's the newest log
Anyway here's the newest log
01-01-2009, 11:45 AM
#22
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heres a few ideas for you to check:
1. its possible the crank sensor isn't re-learning properly so i would test that
2. because of what i read about your gauges there is also the possiblity of a charging problem. check the battery voltage, fuses and also make sure you battary terminals are tight. loose terminals can cause the same condition and i know that from experiance. hope this helps. goodluck!
1. its possible the crank sensor isn't re-learning properly so i would test that
2. because of what i read about your gauges there is also the possiblity of a charging problem. check the battery voltage, fuses and also make sure you battary terminals are tight. loose terminals can cause the same condition and i know that from experiance. hope this helps. goodluck!
01-01-2009, 11:51 AM
#23
heres a few ideas for you to check:
1. its possible the crank sensor isn't re-learning properly so i would test that
2. because of what i read about your gauges there is also the possiblity of a charging problem. check the battery voltage, fuses and also make sure you battary terminals are tight. loose terminals can cause the same condition and i know that from experiance. hope this helps. goodluck!
1. its possible the crank sensor isn't re-learning properly so i would test that
2. because of what i read about your gauges there is also the possiblity of a charging problem. check the battery voltage, fuses and also make sure you battary terminals are tight. loose terminals can cause the same condition and i know that from experiance. hope this helps. goodluck!
Thanks, I double check that. The batt I have in the car is a brand new Optima yellow top and when I'm not trying to start the car I trip a 200A breaker to disconnect the battery and charge it. I kow battery voltage is important so every time I use it it has at least 12.4 V. I'll double check all my connections but everything looks good. Thanks again.
01-01-2009, 11:55 AM
#24
Another weird thing is happening when the car starts up and runs for the longer periods the idle goes pretty high like around 3k rpm and the guages including the tach dont move like they are dead and after about 3 seconds they come on and peg out and then they return to their normal positions like they will do when you have the battery disconnected and you reconnect it for the first time. I think this may be a hint as to whats going on but I dont know what it means exactly.
Well that's weird. It still looks like something is just shutting off the fuel on the one time the the LM1 came on. If you can get another 12 volt power source to connect the the LM1 to, to avoid the warmup cycle reset during cranking. I bet the fuel is just being shut off everytime.
01-01-2009, 11:57 AM
#25
Thanks, I double check that. The batt I have in the car is a brand new Optima yellow top and when I'm not trying to start the car I trip a 200A breaker to disconnect the battery and charge it. I kow battery voltage is important so every time I use it it has at least 12.4 V. I'll double check all my connections but everything looks good. Thanks again.
01-01-2009, 12:11 PM
#26
Well that's weird. It still looks like something is just shutting off the fuel on the one time the the LM1 came on. If you can get another 12 volt power source to connect the the LM1 to, to avoid the warmup cycle reset during cranking. I bet the fuel is just being shut off everytime.
Also the fact that the guages act like they loose juice makes me want to look in that direction.
:
01-01-2009, 12:24 PM
#27
I will add the battery V PID, think thats a very good idea.
01-01-2009, 01:40 PM
#28
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Like i said check the crank sensor, it could even be loose or a bad wire on it,EX. burned, cut etc...cause once the car starts if its not picking up the signal it will shut the fuel off
01-01-2009, 01:58 PM
#29
I went over all my grounds and all connections and didnt find anything out of order, I tested all fuses and all were powered except the mini starter fuse under the hood but I think it dosent get power till you turn the ignition switch, I would have tested that theory but I dont have anyone here to turn the key for me.
I also did another log and added in some PID's, couldnt find a PID for battery voltage so I logged ignition voltage. Anyway, here it is. I guess the next step is for me to unplug the PCM and double check all my injector to driver connections for accuracy.
Thanks for all your help and LMK if you see anything fishy in the log file.
01-01-2009, 02:14 PM
#30
The voltage looks normal. Not sure how to read that crank sensor PID
You can test the crank sensor with a DMM using the procedure on this page http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic8876...c4c95b000c7121
It should set a code if it's bad though. Do you have any DTCs?
You can test the crank sensor with a DMM using the procedure on this page http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic8876...c4c95b000c7121
It should set a code if it's bad though. Do you have any DTCs?
01-01-2009, 02:25 PM
#31
The voltage looks normal. Not sure how to read that crank sensor PID
You can test the crank sensor with a DMM using the procedure on this page http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic8876...c4c95b000c7121
It should set a code if it's bad though. Do you have any DTCs?
You can test the crank sensor with a DMM using the procedure on this page http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic8876...c4c95b000c7121
It should set a code if it's bad though. Do you have any DTCs?
[PCM] P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
[Brake] C0237 - Rear Wheel Speed Signal Erratic (Current)
[Brake] C0240 - (Current)
[HUD] U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (History) (Current) (Immature)
Continuous Tests
Misfire: Complete
Fuel System: Complete
Comprehensive Component: Complete
Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Complete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: Complete
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: Complete
[Brake] C0237 - Rear Wheel Speed Signal Erratic (Current)
[Brake] C0240 - (Current)
[HUD] U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (History) (Current) (Immature)
Continuous Tests
Misfire: Complete
Fuel System: Complete
Comprehensive Component: Complete
Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Complete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: Complete
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: Complete
01-01-2009, 03:53 PM
#32
I looked over the injector driver wiring and it looked like I had some wires wrong. The wires I had going in the driver came out the same color but that cylinder # didnt match the color of their schematic so I rewired the whole thing. I still have the same problems though, right when I connected the injector driver back up it ran for about 12 seconds but went back to dieing after 2 seconds. The fumes are so strong, this thing is so rich its burning my eyes. I really think its flooding somehow, anyway I got a few more DTC's this time.
If you look at the last log I did the TPS will show about 30% , I had the pedal on the floor when it only showe 30%. Could this be part of my problem?
[PCM] P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency (Pending) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[PCM] P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (SES) (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[PCM] P1122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage (History) (Immature)
[PCM] P1635 - 5 Volt Reference Circuit (SES) (History) (Immature)
[Brake] C0237 - Rear Wheel Speed Signal Erratic (History)
[HUD] U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (History) (Current) (Immature)
Continuous Tests
Misfire: Complete
Fuel System: Complete
Comprehensive Component: Complete
Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Complete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: Complete
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: Complete
[PCM] P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (SES) (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[PCM] P1122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage (History) (Immature)
[PCM] P1635 - 5 Volt Reference Circuit (SES) (History) (Immature)
[Brake] C0237 - Rear Wheel Speed Signal Erratic (History)
[HUD] U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (History) (Current) (Immature)
Continuous Tests
Misfire: Complete
Fuel System: Complete
Comprehensive Component: Complete
Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Complete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: Complete
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: Complete
If you look at the last log I did the TPS will show about 30% , I had the pedal on the floor when it only showe 30%. Could this be part of my problem?
01-01-2009, 07:47 PM
#34
I have considered rescaling them for the stock ones and reinstalling them but its a huge PITA, guess that will be my next step. If that dosent work I plan on asking Bill about rewriting my 1 bar OS just to see if it will run on that.
I installed a crank position sensor from a 4.8L that I had laying around, it had the same # in raised characters so I'm pretty sure it was the right sensor. Anyway, it made no difference.
.........
01-01-2009, 08:11 PM
#36
I know I have them scaled right. The first time I scaled them I did it in gallons per sec because the lable on HPT's IFR table says its g/sec but in actuallity its in #'s per hr. I found out the hard way, it never started, I had to change the oil because it was so flooded. I posted the tune and then thats when Bill brought it to my attention.
