Tuning foe bracket racing consistency
There is really nothing different about tuning a car for bracket racing - except, once you tune it before the season starts, don't change anything about the car or tune!! Several years ago, I had my car running mid 11's NA and bracket raced it every week - it was dead consistent for the given conditions... meaning that I kept track of the weather conditions because that was really the only variable.
The easiest way to do that is to buy a weather station (Jegs or Summit) that you input your runs into and it records them along with the weather conditions at the moment. Then you just ask it what you should dial, and it bases your dial off of the library of runs you have put in and the weather. You can do this manually as well by keeping a log and using a barometer/thermometer - but the weather station is much more accurate and easier...
One thing I will add - for this to work well, you need to have a suspension setup that dead hooks the car all of the time regardless of track conditions. That is why when I was bracket racing, I spent my money on suspension parts instead of making the car go faster.
Also, a trans cooler is a must... and get the car up to operating temperature before every run - don't try to keep it cold to go faster - you will never be consistent like that...
The easiest way to do that is to buy a weather station (Jegs or Summit) that you input your runs into and it records them along with the weather conditions at the moment. Then you just ask it what you should dial, and it bases your dial off of the library of runs you have put in and the weather. You can do this manually as well by keeping a log and using a barometer/thermometer - but the weather station is much more accurate and easier...
One thing I will add - for this to work well, you need to have a suspension setup that dead hooks the car all of the time regardless of track conditions. That is why when I was bracket racing, I spent my money on suspension parts instead of making the car go faster.
Also, a trans cooler is a must... and get the car up to operating temperature before every run - don't try to keep it cold to go faster - you will never be consistent like that...
Everything Blk02 said plus - never tune to the 'ragged edge' - a couple of tenths richer and a couple of degrees less timing will greatly aid in consistency and be more stable against changing conditions / fuel / etc. Once you have that, it's all in the suspension setup...............
Bird
Bird
I have a Performaire weather/et predictor, I'm running Sunoco 93, I have all the susp stuff (car hooks) and my 60s are consistent..usually 1.60-62..and I run at the same h2o temp each time (except for the late rounds when I can't cool down in the summer).
My question was really centered around if I do get a tune what should I look out for if my goal is consistency? Also, why would a trans cooler help with consistency?
Thanks guys for the tips.
My question was really centered around if I do get a tune what should I look out for if my goal is consistency? Also, why would a trans cooler help with consistency?
Thanks guys for the tips.
I have a Performaire weather/et predictor, I'm running Sunoco 93, I have all the susp stuff (car hooks) and my 60s are consistent..usually 1.60-62..and I run at the same h2o temp each time (except for the late rounds when I can't cool down in the summer).
My question was really centered around if I do get a tune what should I look out for if my goal is consistency? Also, why would a trans cooler help with consistency?
Thanks guys for the tips.
My question was really centered around if I do get a tune what should I look out for if my goal is consistency? Also, why would a trans cooler help with consistency?
Thanks guys for the tips.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: IL/WI Border
a weather station is a must - so is lots of practice - have a race next weekend - try and hit up some t&t the week before - granted each day is different but if you are consistent that weekend it is a good chance it will be consistent the next weekend
we also found that when we pooch the car out of the hole works a lot better - more consistent times when the car just goes then takes off
this isnt heads up where that lost time on the 60' will kill you - however if you spin on the launch kiss that round good bye
cant count how many times people have lost because they have a small tire slick and the car spins on launch and the run is basically thrown away - had they set the launch lower it would of hooked and got them that consistent et
we also found that when we pooch the car out of the hole works a lot better - more consistent times when the car just goes then takes off
this isnt heads up where that lost time on the 60' will kill you - however if you spin on the launch kiss that round good bye
cant count how many times people have lost because they have a small tire slick and the car spins on launch and the run is basically thrown away - had they set the launch lower it would of hooked and got them that consistent et
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: IL/WI Border
pretty much - we could launch the nova at 4500+ but is normally leaves at 3800 - it is very slow out of the gate especially with a big tire - but our 60' times are pretty identical every time
each car is different - but if you are making big hp with a smaller slick - i wouldnt rev it too high if you are just bracket racing
each car is different - but if you are making big hp with a smaller slick - i wouldnt rev it too high if you are just bracket racing
