uneven ltrims
for the o2's but found no defect.I changed sparkplugs also
with no help.The plugs that came out looked good,but the car has a shakey idle when in closed loop.I also changed
bank 2 o2 sensor with no help.Cross counts on bank 2 are lazy compared to bank 1 on my in car scan tool.I checked the o2 extentions for ohms and all was well also.Anybody
have any ideas on this problem.Thanks in advance for all your replys.
Mark Johnson
You said you tried new O2's.
you can try swaping them from one side to the other,
to see if the problem moves from side to side,
If that doesn't work you know your O2's are ok.
I would highly suspect anything else, cause you would
be throwing other codes if it was spark or fuel.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Paul
directly from the pcm to the extender to the o2 sensor,4 wire sqare connetor.Is that correct?
What values should I see on this circut?
Thank again for the reply.
goto page 61
http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/LS1/Holden_LS1.pdf
You could verify the heater is getting voltage with a VTOM from PCM via its 2 wires and also see if the biased .450 mvolts from PCM is getting to the O2 without engine running but key on but if your using a compliant EPA PCM scanner it has to have a O2 test that returns results as to all phases of 1 O2 cycle and then compare that to the other S1 O2.
If air is entering that side causing exhaust to stay cooler even if heater is working the DTC would still set being even with heater on the temps are too low.
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If I remember right, P0135, and P0155 have to do with the O2 sensors not heating up fast enough. Mine do it all the time in the winter. I think the general concensus is that since they are farther from the motor, they take longer to warm. If they are not up to temp within a certain amount of time, then you get the code....
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new check valves when I did the plugs.The exhaust is also
leak free.Thanks to all for the help.This problem is starting to annoy me.I hope its not a pcm problem.Team z1r i only have a ramchargers scanmaster to work with.
and pluged them in one at a time and checked that the heater was working.I put my freshest one in and went for a ride.Now car runs better but bank 2 ltft is +25 when bank 1 is around 0 wtf.The 02,s read way low on bank 2 and do not fluctuate.Car now codes P1153.Think i'll try a different sensor and see if I can get some crosscount action.
I do have a rub mark on the header on that side
from a speed bump but I can't here a leak.Any more ideas?
If nothing else I would agree with ZR1,exhaust leak before or near sensor.If thats not it I would replace the 02 extension wire.
I don't have a slp fan switch,but I do have a 160
thermostat and fans set accordingly.The o2 readings on bank2 never go below 480 and switch
way slower than bank1.When I get on the throttle
hard the readings rise but still don't switch properly.When I go back to cruise the readings drop even when the engine is fully warmed up.This
is starting to drive me nuts.
If the problem moves, then you know it was the component. If not, then you have eliminitated it as part of the problem. And best of all, as I suggested before, this is free.
First thing to do is swap the 2 front ones.
the way the gas mileage went in crapper also.



