Possible to delete MAF?
For the difficult cars, why do they die when unhooked (fuel, spark, airflow, or other)?
I don't really do them much different than the 99-ups, I just can't use RTT on the 98s. I make up a base file from my head (changes to an OEM file for the car) to rough the setups in, get them up and going and close enough to work with and I tweak from there. There is nothing extra special that I do for 98s. There are 2 approaches to SD in a 98 for N/A applications. I use the HPTuner's 2bar custom OS whenever possible since the secondary VE is workable, but sucks (and the 2bar OS does away with it) next to a full table. The custom OS puts you back on the HO table too. You can setup the MAP parameters to run the OEM sensor with the 2bar OS. On the occasion that that was not possible or not desired by the customer, we tune off the secondary VE and LO table like back in the day.
For the difficult cars, why do they die when unhooked (fuel, spark, airflow, or other)?
Ive heard many things about what needs to be done and what not but never from a trusted source. any suggestions?
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Ive heard many things about what needs to be done and what not but never from a trusted source. any suggestions?
I don't see anything but boltons in your signature... unless its missing a lot of info, I wouldn't ditch the MAF for your setup.
Being built right now is a 6.0 with forged rods and pistons, 706's with full p&p on a flow bench, 2.08 1.60, and a custom cam that with 1:8 rockers will achieve nearly .700ths lift. not sure about whp but weve got our fingers crossed for at least 600 fwhp. If i was betting id put money on a yes.
while the motor goes together im trying to prepare the rest of the car for it, SD, im looking at a 12pt cage, trying to find a 12 bolt rear, and looking at driveshafts. couple of suspension pieces on their way, etc. etc.
Even if it doesnt get the Speed Density till after the motor, Im trying to put my ducks in a row before i get there. At least to have information and parts waiting on the floor of my bedroom for when it all goes down.
I also wanna remove as many variables as possible to eliminate problems surrounding the swap. less problems less headache less stress less cussing and throwing tools
got time to plan it, may as well.
Im glad you agree, otherwise id feel like a dick for wasting your time lol. so back to my last question and to add another. Should I go SD before the motor then retune after or wait till after the swap then go SD?
I was thinkin go SD before so that i can break in the cam with some degree of rightness in the motor. It would be way to much work to put an EFI motor on my dyno.
What hard parts are needed to run SD? 3 bar MAP? Wideband O2?



