That's not what I'm talking about, unless you idle at WOT.

Well you have an MS3. Leave the idle at 1000rpm, get your fueling correct, and get your RAF correct. You can't just throw that cam in your car and expect everything to run peachy without doing a proper tune. Honestly it sounds like the car is running rich on startup.

 

The car does have a proper tune.

It was dyno tuned the day after the cam and everything went in. It has just had this issue since the day I picked it up.

 

So let me get this straight... you had idle issues before you installed the cam...?

 

If you send me your tune I can take a look at it and help you out. I am not an expert but I feel I have a good grasp on hptuners.

Or compare your tune to andy670ho's his appears to be very professional.

 

So the tuner redid your VE/MAF and gave you a PROPER tune yet you are having idle issues?


Amazing.

I am flabbergasted.

 

Idle Airflow, Startup Airflow Initial, and IAC Park Position Airflow all
reference coolant temperature.

 

No. I have had this idle issue since I picked the car up from the shop AFTER the cam went in and got dyno tuned.

 

heres my tune...

 

do a search...theirs a good amount of people on here with the MS3 that have been dyno tuned and have the same idle issue as me.

The car runs very strong besides the idle issue. I just got back from the track and the car trapped 116mph 4 times in a row...I just suck at launching so my ET's sucked but 116 trap is pretty good for a bolt on MS3 car with stock 3.42's on street tires

 

Ok well things dont look too good in your tune. The MAF and VE are not tuned at all. Your power enrichment tables have been hacked so you get proper wide open fueling. You got ripped off I'm sorry thats some crappy work there. I bet you are not too happy with the driveability of the car? Well you better start reading the hptuners boards to learn to do it yourself!

Your air pump is still enabled, go to your General tab and put 284 in the air pump spot. I changed a few things that should help your car start up when its warm, give them a shot and see what happens. I changed the tabs that are in the red, copy over the values i put into those tables.

 

^what he said.

Looks like they just bumped up idle rpm and idle airflow, then just scaled
the pe table.

 

actually driveability is pretty good on the car...I DD it everyday and I get a little surge here and there between 1500-1900rpms

also, I still have my air pump on the car.....

thanks alot. I just changed all the tables you posted. I will scan it onto my car after work and see how it runs. I really appreciate it

 

what are you mods??

 

What do you mean "dyno" tuned? Did the tuner go through and correct all of your fuel tables or only tune WOT? Car should have never left the shop with idle issues.

 

To me a DYNO tune means WOT.

A TUNER should do DYNO and STREET tunes.

End of story.

 

I mean the car got the cam/valve train installed then went on the Dyno for tuning?

Im not sure how far to a extent the tune went.

 

so I changed all my tables and everything to what you posted and it still does the same thing but worse. It was idling at 300rpms for a few seconds I dont know how it didnt stall.

Maybe I just need to drive it more and let it learn the new tune??

 

Ok so who tuned it new era?

 

Do you still have egr ? I think you should ditch the air pump too. If you do not have EGR and Cats go into your Spark Control > Spark Advance tab and Zero out the Cat lightoff tables. Also zero out the EGR Correction tables. You really need to have your MAF and VE tables tuned I'm sure its running way rich in open loop (before its warm). Here is another table you should also change for cold starts.

The table that I changed last night under Fuel Control > General > Initial adder vs ECT is basically your choke. Look at the coolant temperatue (car warm or cold) areas that you are having problems and try subtracting a little bit of fuel at a time (fine tune it try going .010 less fuel until it helps out).

 

I have a 01, so EGR didnt even come on it. I have hooker competition long tubes, Pacesetter off road Y pipe...so no cats either.

when the car is cold and I start it, it idles right up to 1200rpms until its warm then makes its way to 1000. It doesnt idle down around 400-600rpms like when its on a hot start.

Now, with the chart you posted, Open Loop F/A Vs coolant temp Vs Map...should I do the whole column from 20kpa-100kpa in the temps its doing it? Or only up to a certain KPA