idle issue...MS3
I have a 01, so EGR didnt even come on it. I have hooker competition long tubes, Pacesetter off road Y pipe...so no cats either.
when the car is cold and I start it, it idles right up to 1200rpms until its warm then makes its way to 1000. It doesnt idle down around 400-600rpms like when its on a hot start.
Now, with the chart you posted, Open Loop F/A Vs coolant temp Vs Map...should I do the whole column from 20kpa-100kpa in the temps its doing it? Or only up to a certain KPA
when the car is cold and I start it, it idles right up to 1200rpms until its warm then makes its way to 1000. It doesnt idle down around 400-600rpms like when its on a hot start.
Now, with the chart you posted, Open Loop F/A Vs coolant temp Vs Map...should I do the whole column from 20kpa-100kpa in the temps its doing it? Or only up to a certain KPA
Really I think you need to do a cold start log with everything off (fans, radio) and go to hptuners and search on how to do an idle airflow scan with your scanner. Try messing with the Initial Adder vs ECT (the one like choke I described above). Try lowering the value in the 177 degree cell to .115 and see if that helps.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Round Lake, NY
Oh duh I knew 01's didn't come with EGR (LS6 Intake) Why do you have timing in your EGR table?? I still think you should zero it out and the cat light off table. The open loop F/A table I posted up is just supposed to help a cammed car out while its cold, as you can see only the 14-104 degree tables are modified.
Really I think you need to do a cold start log with everything off (fans, radio) and go to hptuners and search on how to do an idle airflow scan with your scanner. Try messing with the Initial Adder vs ECT (the one like choke I described above). Try lowering the value in the 177 degree cell to .115 and see if that helps.
Really I think you need to do a cold start log with everything off (fans, radio) and go to hptuners and search on how to do an idle airflow scan with your scanner. Try messing with the Initial Adder vs ECT (the one like choke I described above). Try lowering the value in the 177 degree cell to .115 and see if that helps.
I did everything you said to do. I also added a few degree's of timing from 400-1800 rpms down to .20g/cyl to help on the start and also lesson my little surge issue. I will upload the tune tomorrow, scan it, take it for a spin make sure its not knocking and what not and play around with my idle now that im learning how to do it. I really appreciate it.
alright, heres my updated tune....
I did everything you said to do. I also added a few degree's of timing from 400-1800 rpms down to .20g/cyl to help on the start and also lesson my little surge issue. I will upload the tune tomorrow, scan it, take it for a spin make sure its not knocking and what not and play around with my idle now that im learning how to do it. I really appreciate it.
I did everything you said to do. I also added a few degree's of timing from 400-1800 rpms down to .20g/cyl to help on the start and also lesson my little surge issue. I will upload the tune tomorrow, scan it, take it for a spin make sure its not knocking and what not and play around with my idle now that im learning how to do it. I really appreciate it.
.132 down to .035 thats a big jump, use small increments, but if the car wont start when its hot tomorrow you will know why! But hell you have to start somewhere.
One other thing that will help it idle, you need to bump up your idle timing from 22 up to 26 or 28 degrees. DO this under the Idle spark advance table > In drive and Park. Your high octane table only is referenced when you are moving so I highly suggest you change these.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Round Lake, NY
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Round Lake, NY
Oh I just noticed something you will really want to change! Fuel Control > COT Lean cruise > Cat over temp protection disable that for sure as it can cause all sorts of problems. You have to be careful with the Initial Adder vs ECT table, you went from
.132 down to .035 thats a big jump, use small increments, but if the car wont start when its hot tomorrow you will know why! But hell you have to start somewhere.
One other thing that will help it idle, you need to bump up your idle timing from 22 up to 26 or 28 degrees. DO this under the Idle spark advance table > In drive and Park. Your high octane table only is referenced when you are moving so I highly suggest you change these.
.132 down to .035 thats a big jump, use small increments, but if the car wont start when its hot tomorrow you will know why! But hell you have to start somewhere.
One other thing that will help it idle, you need to bump up your idle timing from 22 up to 26 or 28 degrees. DO this under the Idle spark advance table > In drive and Park. Your high octane table only is referenced when you are moving so I highly suggest you change these.
or copy exactly what you posted up?
Last edited by kidcamaro98; May 15, 2009 at 08:03 AM.
Either way you could copy everything I put in there or just the 0 to 1600rpm tables. That table is only really used when you rev it while you are not moving and everyone seems to make that table different. As long as your first rows 0 to 1600rpm are around 26 degrees it should not matter. I just posted a pic up as it helps show what two tables I was talking about.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Round Lake, NY
Either way you could copy everything I put in there or just the 0 to 1600rpm tables. That table is only really used when you rev it while you are not moving and everyone seems to make that table different. As long as your first rows 0 to 1600rpm are around 26 degrees it should not matter. I just posted a pic up as it helps show what two tables I was talking about.
I will let you know tonight how the new tune is.
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Speed inc did a mail order base tune for me so I could drive the car, I went to them for a tune after but the base tune was very good for idle, maybe shoot them a call and do a mail order base tune to get you close? I was pretty happy with the car with the base tune. I think it cost me like $100 or something.
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This is why I prefer to do my own tuning. You can't just throw a cam in it, take it to tuner X with a dyno and call it a day. Sure some tuners will take the time to do it right but not the average tuner looking to make a few bucks with his dyno. Idle and driveability tuning isn't addressed on the dyno like it is on the street, and is much harder to get right than WOT, which is usually all that is address on the dyno. Street tuning can take several hours to get right.
+1
Thats some good read from both Nitrousd & Kidcamero...
Base running airflow seems pretty damn high with mod to the file you did. I'd back off 1.00 - 5.00 points across all the cells and see if that helps. This may take some time to get right because you'd only be tuning the same cell pretty if you're just starting/restarting the car. So even if you get it dialed in, it may be bad again in the morning when its cold, just fyi...
Also, how much timing are you running at idle? I lower mine 3-5* below stock timing in those cells >1,400rpm
Thats some good read from both Nitrousd & Kidcamero...
Base running airflow seems pretty damn high with mod to the file you did. I'd back off 1.00 - 5.00 points across all the cells and see if that helps. This may take some time to get right because you'd only be tuning the same cell pretty if you're just starting/restarting the car. So even if you get it dialed in, it may be bad again in the morning when its cold, just fyi...
Also, how much timing are you running at idle? I lower mine 3-5* below stock timing in those cells >1,400rpm
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,218
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From: Round Lake, NY
+1
Thats some good read from both Nitrousd & Kidcamero...
Base running airflow seems pretty damn high with mod to the file you did. I'd back off 1.00 - 5.00 points across all the cells and see if that helps. This may take some time to get right because you'd only be tuning the same cell pretty if you're just starting/restarting the car. So even if you get it dialed in, it may be bad again in the morning when its cold, just fyi...
Also, how much timing are you running at idle? I lower mine 3-5* below stock timing in those cells >1,400rpm
Thats some good read from both Nitrousd & Kidcamero...
Base running airflow seems pretty damn high with mod to the file you did. I'd back off 1.00 - 5.00 points across all the cells and see if that helps. This may take some time to get right because you'd only be tuning the same cell pretty if you're just starting/restarting the car. So even if you get it dialed in, it may be bad again in the morning when its cold, just fyi...
Also, how much timing are you running at idle? I lower mine 3-5* below stock timing in those cells >1,400rpm
well I leaned it out a little and the car doesnt puff black smoke when I first start it...and I added some more idle timing (30* now from 0-1200rpms) and on a hot start (194*) the car will idle around 600rpms for a few seconds then 800 then 1000k. Car runs pretty good now. I also eliminated a good deal of surge when driving between 1400-2000rpms. I can cruise at 1500rpms and not get any surging.
Im not knocking anywhere, car is running better but I think I can dial the idle in a little bit more. The idle thump and tone is also alot cleaner. Today its very humid here so im wondering how it will do on a hot start up when its cooler out.
also, I havent touched my base idle running airflow table yet. What do you sugest I start from on that table?? ALso, By "back off 1-5 Points" do you mean subtrack from the cells or add?
Last edited by kidcamaro98; May 16, 2009 at 01:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Round Lake, NY
I think that was the issue...
my car had the cam/dyno tune done in late late winter. The actual day it was on the dyno getting tuning it was below 20* outside. So if it was dialed in on the dyno perfect, the warmer weather richens everything up which is why I have the idle issue right now.
my car had the cam/dyno tune done in late late winter. The actual day it was on the dyno getting tuning it was below 20* outside. So if it was dialed in on the dyno perfect, the warmer weather richens everything up which is why I have the idle issue right now.
You need to do a cold start of your car and use Russ K's idle airflow configuration to set your base running airflow. Its really pretty easy, go over to hptuners and search "russ k idle airflow config"
I guess it depends on if you're happy with the tune, but I would redo
the idle airflow like nitroused suggested. Then dial in you ve and maf
because whoever "dyno tuned" your car didn't touch them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Round Lake, NY
also, the car drives smooth now, idles great etc. Im very happy with it.
Dude....
All they did was bump up idle rpm and airflow. Then they scaled the **** out of the
pe table to get the afr they wanted. Your ve, along with many other tables, was not
touched.
All they did was bump up idle rpm and airflow. Then they scaled the **** out of the
pe table to get the afr they wanted. Your ve, along with many other tables, was not
touched.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,218
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From: Round Lake, NY
If I go changing my VE table, isnt that going to **** up my AFR?? Reason I ask is I dont want to do this without a wideband.
If your startup issue is in fact fueling, it'd be better to modify your startup fuel enrichment so that it doesn't dump as much fuel.