PCMS known to go bad????
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From: OHIO
PCMS known to go bad???? My 1998 Z28 A4 is having a starting issue so I brought it to work (Iwork at a dealership) to have it checked out. So far the tech is telling me that during the intermitent no start there is no injector pulse and he thinks it may be PCM related. The car is totally stock except for a catback. He is still working on it though.
look in the FL classified, for a post assorted stuff and pcms, you can request they program it for your vin number as well.
edit, your work is going to charge you $150 for 10 minutes of using thier tech2 to program the pcm? wow.
edit, your work is going to charge you $150 for 10 minutes of using thier tech2 to program the pcm? wow.
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The tech spent about 3 hours checking the car out at $50.00/ our labor rate is $100.00/hr for customers; so all the labor is just basically the diagostic work. Its weird...the car will crank but not start(and when it does this apparently there is no injector pulse and it may do this and not start several times in a row but the maybe after a few attempts at starting the car, it will start right up.???? I am really going to be pissed if I have to spend $170.00 for a new PCM and this $150.00 labor and still have an issue. The tech claimed he checked all the grounds, powers, and plugs...just like you would go through all the basic diagnosis and he says all the sensors are dong what they should do and he is getting readings from them at the PCM connector; so he thinks its the PCM.
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Do I HAVE to have a PCM from an exact same 98 F-body (gears and everything the same)? I would think not; since it has to be programmed anyway, just HAS to be from a 1998 F-body, right?
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Ive had 1 experience with a bad PCM in an F-Body, they dont really operate well when they get full of water lol.
EFI Alchemy has a 98 PCM for sale in the Florida classifieds. If you would like details on it PM me.
Thanks
EFI Alchemy has a 98 PCM for sale in the Florida classifieds. If you would like details on it PM me.
Thanks
Ebay have them an by the way when a pcm is checked at a dealer and the dealer finds a default in it(pcm) that's what it is because a bad wire wouldn't show up at the dealer right.
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From: OHIO
Ok...lets say a wire was bad, be it from a sensor (cam, crank...whatever), then you would think it would show up when the tech checked all the wires at the
PCM, right? The tech is a friend of mine, so I believe him when he said he checked all the wires, and received correct readings all the way to the PCM, but yet when the car doesn't start there is no injector pulse. I don't know I am not a technician. I am going to really pissed though if I buy another PCM, have it flashed and still have an issue.
PCM, right? The tech is a friend of mine, so I believe him when he said he checked all the wires, and received correct readings all the way to the PCM, but yet when the car doesn't start there is no injector pulse. I don't know I am not a technician. I am going to really pissed though if I buy another PCM, have it flashed and still have an issue.
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From: OHIO
and at least I will have a good PCM, right. 
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Thats what I was thinking...my cost on a brand new GM REMAN UNIT is about $170.00 plus the labor to program(I know it doesn't amount to much time to flash it but you nkow dealers...$50.00 at least to flash)so I am already at least $220.00 plus the $150.00 diagnostic time 
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From: Ventura, Ca
Did you check your cylinder lock? Sounds like your cylinder wire broke and the resistance is not being read from your passkey. BTW I have a 98 PCM that I will sell you for $60 and I can tune it to your bin no charge.
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The tech checked the wires from the VATS in the column and they're ok; the car will start if you try it several times or it may very well start on the intial try.
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WELL...of course the new PCM didn't fix the car! I am going to ask him if there are any codes because i had to hjave the car flatbedded last week...it wouldn't start at all. I had to drive it home and on the way home the car shut off. I was pulling away from a stop sign and right before it shifted to 2nd it shut off. I put the car in neutral and it after a few tries while costing it started back up, but with a check engine light on. I drove a bit further and it happened again. I got it started again and continued on my way but about a mile down the road it gave out again and I couldn't get it to start again; so I had to have it towed. So now I bought a PCM that I don't need and of course the tech and service writer both are giving me the cold shoulder, like its my problem that he told me it needs a PCM. ANY other ideas of what could cause this? I had my VATS wires break in my 99 SS but if I remember when that happened the car acted like it had a dead battery; it wouldn't even crank.
Sorry to hear that didnt fix your problem, you would think the technician should have to go back over his work if he misdiagnosed an issue. I would say your on the right track with looking at codes first, find out what its throwing and take a step from there. PM me if necessary, Thanks