Anyone know their Ignition Voltage?
I think that is just showing you the primary voltage, ie. what the alternator is putting out. That is way too low to be secondary voltage and I don't see any way A-tap could measure that. Turn the car off and see if it drops to a little over 12V.
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Launching!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Homestead
So that 13.6 - 13.7 must be alternator output .. I think thats a little low should be 14.5 right? I do have the ASP crank pulley I rev the car to 5 grand and it doesn't move to 14. I am going to put the ASP pulley on the alternator to spin it faster see if it raises the Voltage.
Put a digital volt meter on the battery terminals and see what voltage you have with the car running. Don't rely on A-tap to check your alt. output. 13.6 is OK with a lot of electrical accessories on. Should be 14.2 with no load and idling, although you probably won't see that with the ASP pulley. The condition of your battery can effect the voltage reading also.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Homestead
Does the V-Plus Volt Booster work? I found it on LS1 speed.com .. Here is a quote .. the whole 13.6 thing bothers me 
Your alternator is designed to put out a specific voltage, generally 13.8 volts. The only problem is when there's a greater demand on the electrical system, such as a WOT blast, the alternator falls a little short. The V-Plus is designed to overcome voltage taper at WOT by stepping up the alternator voltage 2.2v. at 70% throttle. Result? More power to your fuel pump and ignition system. Unit plugs in, with no wires to cut or tap into. Includes hardware
Your alternator is designed to put out a specific voltage, generally 13.8 volts. The only problem is when there's a greater demand on the electrical system, such as a WOT blast, the alternator falls a little short. The V-Plus is designed to overcome voltage taper at WOT by stepping up the alternator voltage 2.2v. at 70% throttle. Result? More power to your fuel pump and ignition system. Unit plugs in, with no wires to cut or tap into. Includes hardware
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From what I have seen the PCM uses dynamic feedback from the ignition coils and adjusts the dwell time according to demands and current system voltage. I have noticed extra wires coming from the coils, this indiactes a feedback winding to the PCM. The amount of energy(voltage) remaining in the ignition coil is directly related to actual cylinder conditions after it has fired. The PCM(from what I understand) uses this information along with battery voltage, actual time for coil to reach the calculated charge time, and I would assume other sensor information to determine the target coil dwell time. The PCM also factors in battery voltage when it calculates the injector pulse width. This way the PCM can automatically adjust for actual running conditions. I really dont see where a device like is metioned would be of benefit unless you were at a sustained WOT and the battery voltage fell below a point where the PCM could not compensate. I have noticed the dwell time change along with a change in battery voltage while viewing the coil primaries with a scope. I use a similar method with motorcycle ignitions to keep a constant ignition energy during a run on Nitrous. Otherwise the ignition voltage tapers off at the end of a pass on the bikes with no charging systems. Just my .02 worth.
