Can Someone PLEASE check my tune out?
08-01-2009, 10:25 PM
#1
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Can Someone PLEASE check my tune out? Hey guys,
I have posted a couple questions about this particular tune already but I'm starting to get kind of frusterated with the $400 I spent on this tune and the $75 I spent for the retune.
The two things that are confusing me are the High Spark Table and the Flow Rate Vs. KPA.
The High spark table seems to have stuff changed ALL over the place and not just where I'm going to be at WOT.
The Flow Rate vs. KPA has me confused because, well, I have stock injectors!
This tune is really pissing me off since I am still getting knock in a few places. It was really bad last week after I got retuned (the tuner didn't even scan it on/after the dyno just went off of AF) and the tuner completly zerod out the IAT table. I have since put the IAT table back in, halved it, and added a degree or 2 of retard in the places where it was really needed, but it is still getting a little knock retard randomly above 3500rpm at WOT (.60-.72 g/cyl) at 100*-102*IAT.
Here are the tunes that I am working with, the first one is the tune in my car, and the second one is a stock 2005 CTS-V tune. Can someone please look at this and tell me if it's even worth keeping this tune and cleaning it up or should I just start over and do it myself?
I have posted a couple questions about this particular tune already but I'm starting to get kind of frusterated with the $400 I spent on this tune and the $75 I spent for the retune.
The two things that are confusing me are the High Spark Table and the Flow Rate Vs. KPA.
The High spark table seems to have stuff changed ALL over the place and not just where I'm going to be at WOT.
The Flow Rate vs. KPA has me confused because, well, I have stock injectors!
This tune is really pissing me off since I am still getting knock in a few places. It was really bad last week after I got retuned (the tuner didn't even scan it on/after the dyno just went off of AF) and the tuner completly zerod out the IAT table. I have since put the IAT table back in, halved it, and added a degree or 2 of retard in the places where it was really needed, but it is still getting a little knock retard randomly above 3500rpm at WOT (.60-.72 g/cyl) at 100*-102*IAT.
Here are the tunes that I am working with, the first one is the tune in my car, and the second one is a stock 2005 CTS-V tune. Can someone please look at this and tell me if it's even worth keeping this tune and cleaning it up or should I just start over and do it myself?
Last edited by SkullV; 08-01-2009 at 10:45 PM.
08-03-2009, 12:24 AM
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Well I did some logging today and found out that my KR at WOT is only intermittent. I am very new to this so if someone could please take a look at the logs and see if they can tell what is going on that would be great.
I apologize for the lack of afr readings, it was my first shot at standalone datalogging with the Pro Interface and apparently I didn't have the right config loaded into the interface.
The first log is a 2500-redline log showing KR, and the second log is a few 4th gear pulls between 2500rpm-redline showing no KR. The tune is in the first post.
I apologize for the lack of afr readings, it was my first shot at standalone datalogging with the Pro Interface and apparently I didn't have the right config loaded into the interface.
The first log is a 2500-redline log showing KR, and the second log is a few 4th gear pulls between 2500rpm-redline showing no KR. The tune is in the first post.
08-03-2009, 04:55 AM
#5
Sounds like he fudged the injector flow rates, thats not the right way at all! Post this on hptuners.com/forum you will get a much better response. The motor in your caddy is basically an LS6 right, 243 heads? You dont happen to have your actual stock tune do you, as I do not think the one you posted is actually yours?
I looked at some stuff and I would return your injectors to the stock setting. Tell the guy to tune using the MAF and not fudging the injector flow rates. That screws up a lot of things on how gm set up weather and temp calibrations. I would also lower your spark from .56 g/cyl and above especially 2200-4800 rpm. 4000-4800 rpm is where you will see peak cylinder pressure, the flame speed and the piston are at the same speed so you do not need as much timing to make peak torque. Make sure you subtract 6-8 degrees from your lower octane table so it has something to learn from. I think the timing table I set up will be a lot more friendly for you and possibly make more torque.
I looked at some stuff and I would return your injectors to the stock setting. Tell the guy to tune using the MAF and not fudging the injector flow rates. That screws up a lot of things on how gm set up weather and temp calibrations. I would also lower your spark from .56 g/cyl and above especially 2200-4800 rpm. 4000-4800 rpm is where you will see peak cylinder pressure, the flame speed and the piston are at the same speed so you do not need as much timing to make peak torque. Make sure you subtract 6-8 degrees from your lower octane table so it has something to learn from. I think the timing table I set up will be a lot more friendly for you and possibly make more torque.
Last edited by Nitroused383; 08-03-2009 at 05:33 AM.
