P102 MAF low circuit Input Code
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P102 MAF low circuit Input Code I'm still trying to figure out this code. I've cleaned my MAF, and traced all the wiring. This code showed up after I ran open headers for a lil bit driving to the exhaust shop. I had several bad 02 sensor codes and of course replaced the 02's. I'm most likely going to replace the MAF if no one has a clue as to wtf is going on here.
Any suggestions here?
Thanx
Any suggestions here?
Thanx
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burnt front o2 wire check both sides very carefully both the maf and front o2s and alot of other hings get power form same source. itll crap yur maf out someimes, pop the fuse occasianly if so.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
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So is the wires are burnt my Maf is messed up? The car is running better than ever though 
How does this MAF code affect my A/F ratio and timing and stuff? As long as my A/F is on could I bottle the car and not go boom?
How does this MAF code affect my A/F ratio and timing and stuff? As long as my A/F is on could I bottle the car and not go boom?
thast what it was it woudl throw an o2 code only, and intermittenyl drop the MAF occasional pop the Eng Sen fuse. coudlnt find anythign wrong ith the maf, so i dug up the schematics and a few thigns run off that fuse, some being o2s. Checked the harness and some wires got burnt, prolly the heater wire form the o2 was pushing the fuse when it shorted out intermittenyl
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You are so right! I am getting an 02 sensor heater code right now on both sides but my A/F ratio is correct (checked it on the wideband tonight) and i datalogged with a-tap and efi live and everything was reading correctly.
What should I do? can i just turn these codes off b/c the don't affect anything or should i do some rigging of the harness?
Most importantly
Can I bottle the bitch this weekend?
What should I do? can i just turn these codes off b/c the don't affect anything or should i do some rigging of the harness?
Most importantly
Can I bottle the bitch this weekend?
check the frotn and rear o2 wires trace them EVERYWHERE make sure nothing is burnt
if the ltrims are say +20, and the air/fuel is currently good, if you push a rogram it will lose that 20% its adding and be wayy lean. not good if you lost battery or pushed a nitrous program etc
if the ltrims are say +20, and the air/fuel is currently good, if you push a rogram it will lose that 20% its adding and be wayy lean. not good if you lost battery or pushed a nitrous program etc
What ive noticed with some cars that have had weird fueling probs (Ex. heads/cam turbo400 car comes in making 355. Wayyy rich. Work leaning it out, end up with 385.) go racing it runs 118-119 mph. Back to the dyno to dno nitrous system, and its own to 35x hp again and wayyy rich again. After this happened I noticed the LTrims (long term fuel trims) were +20, and it didnt drop to 0 at WOT liek they should. It was adding 20% of fuel based upon the cruise O2 readings
When you put a new program in the car, it would lose all the learning, and being on the dyno didnt get a chance to learn that 20%. SO now you can get a nice a/f ratio makes 385 hp and you go racing. on the way to the track, it learns that 20% form cruise and holds it for WOT runs at the track, back to 355 rwhp and 119 traps.
I forced it into open loop and the car ran 120-122 with the tune that was in it.
Basically with real positive it stores cruise conditions it neede to meet 14.7 a/f and adds that on top of the PE
I wouldnt race on it without figuring it, because if the ltrims got reset you coudl end up WAYY lean, or if you lost your maf youd lose that as a source of fueling information
When you put a new program in the car, it would lose all the learning, and being on the dyno didnt get a chance to learn that 20%. SO now you can get a nice a/f ratio makes 385 hp and you go racing. on the way to the track, it learns that 20% form cruise and holds it for WOT runs at the track, back to 355 rwhp and 119 traps.
I forced it into open loop and the car ran 120-122 with the tune that was in it.
Basically with real positive it stores cruise conditions it neede to meet 14.7 a/f and adds that on top of the PE
I wouldnt race on it without figuring it, because if the ltrims got reset you coudl end up WAYY lean, or if you lost your maf youd lose that as a source of fueling information
My L/T header'd car 3 = years now seems to have a small appetite for o2's.
N2O makes it even worse.
Heater codes & o2 performance do not coincide W/hot.
The heaters do just that, they heat O2's up to get them operating faster.
The PCM controls this & watches the amperage draw on each O2.
If the incorrect feedback is detected you get a heater code.
The car then runs warms O2 to 550 & it works normal.
The O2 heaters are powered by the sensor fuse in underhood fuse box.
The fuse also powers Maf sensor.
This is why you can get this code in relation to O2 heater codes.
If your wiring is OK,
It looks like you prolly need a couple of O2 sensors.
N2O makes it even worse.
Heater codes & o2 performance do not coincide W/hot.
The heaters do just that, they heat O2's up to get them operating faster.
The PCM controls this & watches the amperage draw on each O2.
If the incorrect feedback is detected you get a heater code.
The car then runs warms O2 to 550 & it works normal.
The O2 heaters are powered by the sensor fuse in underhood fuse box.
The fuse also powers Maf sensor.
This is why you can get this code in relation to O2 heater codes.
If your wiring is OK,
It looks like you prolly need a couple of O2 sensors.
Thread Starter
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These 02 sensors are brand new though, I had several 02 codes, and replaced the 02's and every 02 code but the 02 sensor heater code went away. So I'm confident these 02's are okay.
I will check the Fuse box again, is there any other ways to check if a fuse is good or not?
I will also check the wiring again
Thanx for the help guys
I will check the Fuse box again, is there any other ways to check if a fuse is good or not?
I will also check the wiring again
Thanx for the help guys
