LS1edit Q's adjusting MAF table and PE vs RPM
#23
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ya i know i just have 0.000 $ right now and i want to get this thing running decent so i dont end up having to walk to college every day Like i said i did try unplugging the MAF but now its - 26 on the LTFTs throwing a SES light again... i swear i cant win
#24
FormerVendor
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About once every other month someone comes on who has a pile of money into their car, the money into a tuning suite, and then they balk at $200 for a wideband and controller and try to "tune" off of the NBs. You can't use them for what you are trying to do. As their temperature in your pipes increases, so does their output voltage.
I have logs of 4 pulls with the same WOT AFR and NBs ranging from 860mV to 980mV... yet the AFR never changed. This should concrete what we are saying.
You CAN use them to get your part throttle in great shape and the car very driveable; just not heavy throttle.
#26
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You can do some "Old School" tuning if you want to "kinda" get it close for part throttle. With your limited budget, editor and scan tool this is what I would do to get it up and running.
- Lower the first 3 columns of your VE table like: 70%, 80%, 90%
- Set up your injectors for 42#
- Add 100 RPM to your whole Idle RPM table
- Add 10% to the whole MAF curve
- Add 10-15% to your Airflow table
- Add 10% to your Idle Park Position
- Add 4 degrees timing to your Idle Timing tables
- Set your PE table to 1.20
Don't go WOT till you get a WB 02!
After you made the above changes, drive your car and when your car gets into closed loop (over 150 degrees) start watching what your Ltrims are doing in ATAP. You want them close to 0 or -2 at all times. If your Ltrims are more like +10% on both banks then add another 5-8% to your MAF curve.
Some of the methods are crude but it should help you till you get the proper equipment or have a pro tune your car for you. If you were closer I'd help you out personally.
- Lower the first 3 columns of your VE table like: 70%, 80%, 90%
- Set up your injectors for 42#
- Add 100 RPM to your whole Idle RPM table
- Add 10% to the whole MAF curve
- Add 10-15% to your Airflow table
- Add 10% to your Idle Park Position
- Add 4 degrees timing to your Idle Timing tables
- Set your PE table to 1.20
Don't go WOT till you get a WB 02!
After you made the above changes, drive your car and when your car gets into closed loop (over 150 degrees) start watching what your Ltrims are doing in ATAP. You want them close to 0 or -2 at all times. If your Ltrims are more like +10% on both banks then add another 5-8% to your MAF curve.
Some of the methods are crude but it should help you till you get the proper equipment or have a pro tune your car for you. If you were closer I'd help you out personally.
#27
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awesome, thanks for the help i did change the injectors for 42# changed the displacement and a few other things. I havend messed with the VE table at all. A few years ago i did add timing to both tables i am guessing i will change those back to stock. I have a copy of a totally stock LS1 6 speed flash. when i change the MAF curve should i relaod the stock table and go from there ?
#28
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awesome, thanks for the help i did change the injectors for 42# changed the displacement and a few other things. I havend messed with the VE table at all. A few years ago i did add timing to both tables i am guessing i will change those back to stock. I have a copy of a totally stock LS1 6 speed flash. when i change the MAF curve should i relaod the stock table and go from there ?
Your combo is far from stock and the above is to get you going in the right direction. It won't be perfect but will be "safe" for part throttle.
#29
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awesome, thanks for the help i did change the injectors for 42# changed the displacement and a few other things. I havend messed with the VE table at all. A few years ago i did add timing to both tables i am guessing i will change those back to stock. I have a copy of a totally stock LS1 6 speed flash. when i change the MAF curve should i relaod the stock table and go from there ?