SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

So I'm gonna buy the HPT next month and get the wideband covered now. What are some good ones that I can swap from car to car as I will be tuning both my T/A and G8? I know the LM1 is probably the best option for the money instead of forking over dough for the LM2 but I've heard it has problems connecting with the HPT. Could I get 2 good in car widebands for around $250 or is that just entirely unrealistic? lol Any input would be awesome. Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to tackling this monster.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Hey Lincoln is my home town! LHS graduate 1989. You could be really close to your $250 budget for two LC-1's. As far as LSU4 sensor type widebands go they are a good value for the money. Their instructions blow but, I think there is enough information floating about the net to get you where you need to be.

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

Only problem with the LC-1 is that doesn't have a display which I want in case something is janky with the connection to HPT.

sssalah

I'm using the LM-1 with HPT pro and and they're working fine together. The LM-2 has different slope then the LM-1 but that's very easy to setup as indicated above.

shoemike

iTrader: (25)

You can get the LC-1 with a gauge or view AFR data with a laptop.
I've seen a few of them lately in the classifieds for about $100.

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

So you haven't had issues connecting the LM1 to the HPT? I've just heard of some issues but if it's good then I'd be more than willing to pick one up!

GregRexAdams

I've seen many issues (and had issues) with the LC1.

You're best bet is to spend the extra money and get a quality wideband like the NGK AFX. It comes with a display. The best part seems to be not just increased accuracy but much better control over the heating circuits, resulting in many fewer O2 replacements.

I went through two sensors on the LC1 and two on a FAST unit, but have yet to actually go through one with the AFX (although I did order an upgraded sensor).

I understand if money is an issue, but if you're going to tune with it and not just use it for safety (lean conditions in general), you need quality. Also, using two widebands is almost a waist, unless you setup a custom PID to average them, since the LS series cannot be programmed to trim fuel on an individual bank basis.

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't be getting 2 widebands for one vehicle. I'd put one in the T/A and one in the G8. I'll look at the AFX but I'm assuming it's a not one I can move from car to car?

uphigh07

iTrader: (48)

i have also seen some issues with the lc1 i have an autometer one and i dont like it either so i will be buying something different and it will not be the lc1 for sure

Phil'sC5vette

iTrader: (4)

Ive been using the LM1 for about a year on the cars I do. I had two units just to have a spare around, but ended up never using the spare and sold it.

I havent had any issues with the LM1. You do have a buy a serial cord to adjust the offset between the LM-1 and the HP tuner.

Its easy to do and only takes a minute. The extra cord was about $12.00 at office deport.

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

I was looking at the AFX and it doesn't look like it's a swappable one is it? Can't tune both my cars with it like with the LM1?

Doc

iTrader: (9)

You would have to modify it on your own to be "portable."

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm... I just don't want this to be a $1k endeavor! lol

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

probabily cheaper to just buy one for each car.

lavoy

iTrader: (2)

just buy a aem uego , you can get digital or analog display , and mount the gauge in a pod that you can move around and hook the power and ground to a cig lighter adapter.

GregRexAdams

I use it for my tuning business. The cables have a nylon sheath (I think it's nylon) that are heat resistant, and the ends are forked leads I think. I went to radioshack and bought some battery clips, and attached them to the leads. That's the only modificatioin I had to make to swap it from car to car, and so worth it for the increased accuracy and sensor life. I run both wires out, one out of the bottom of the door jam (O2), and the other above the side mirror (battery). Connecting it to the battery helps with ground offset and other things anyway.

If you can, swing for the NGK sensor, but if not it's still accurate with the Bosch. Only other thing is that although the sheath is heat resistant, it WILL melt if it is pulled tight to the exhaust.

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

Wow great info Rex. Thanks man! I'll have to take a look at that.

SLPGTP

iTrader: (1)

Got an NGK AFX on it's way. May try to make it portable but if it doesn't work I'll just get another I guess. I'm pumped! Will get the HPT after the credit card bill comes in a week!