vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Never said anything about cheaping out. I know plenty of people still with Maf running 12psi or more. Some making 900hp with Maf. I want to get car running on 8psi till I feel comfortable with the new engine. Then I know when going to 15psi SD is for me. I just already paid for a MAF tune last WED. Nobody like to pay and do it twice.. But with adding more stuff soon down the road I will have to retune anyways. So for now I was asking what people thought about my setup with maf. And second with the car running good on maf then going to ****. Going to SD might not fix anything if its not a tune issue. So I believe it is best to look at the file and tune we have and see if it is a problem there. Get it running good again. Let me put miles on the fresh motor. then go sd and turn up boost. Noone said Im cheaping out in anyway..

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

Then I'm a little confused. Your P0101 code is a result of either a bad MAF, or bad tune. Your tuner can tell you if the sensor is bad by logging it when it happens. If its not bad, its the tune.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Urite, but it's almost certainly not the MAF being bad.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/12863815-post25.html

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

Actually, its not a delta (which is a change or difference between two values), and its not a lookup table. Its a single value. MAF Fail high Hz. Maybe you are confusing P0068 where it compares maf airflow in g/s versus map airflow in g/s?

I would agree with you though that the MAF is not likely bad.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Should be no confusion. And to my knowledge correct me is Im wrong but the p0101 has everything to do with either a bad maf or Maximum Delta Airflow error. But to be honest Im just waiting on the tuner to get over flu and we are going to get back on the car check tune. He also said he will bring another stock maf to swap out just in case. I will keep everyone informed as soon as tuner gets a look. I will also bring a memory stick to get logs and tune files to post so all you geniuses can take a look. I know a little but nothing compared to you guys.

Heres what I have gathered on a p0101, also I put in new MAP and sealed it in with rtv, also inspected wiring on both map and maf

What does that mean?

Basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. The PCM detects that the actual MAF sensor frequency signal is not within a predetermined range of the calculated MAF value for more than 4.0 seconds.


Possible Solutions

Inspect for the following conditions:
An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
- The secondary ignition wires or coils
- Any solenoids
- Any relays
- Any motors
A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor.
A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.
The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON.
When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude.
A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Ah hem...

Pensacola to JAX ~ 375 miles, I-10 is boring but, not that far.

Have you checked out the new issue of GMHTP?

SD tuning with EFI Live + Moates Road Runner is not that difficult.

Our shop is 16' above sea level and about 1 mile from the St. John's river-never had any issues with SD tuning.

GM designed the LS1 MAF system (MAF sensor + Software) to only read 512 grams of airflow. Your forced induction setup is probably exceeding this. There are tuning methods and larger sensors out there to overcome this. Or, you can go with a 2/3 bar MAP sensor and use custom software from HPT, EFI Live to measure the airflow.

Above all else, you cannot fix a broke car with a tune. Have you ruled this out entirely?

Doc

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Really?

Maybe it's been a little time since you have looked at it.

It IS a delta and it DOES come from a lookup:

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The first thing that should of been done is bring it to the tuner to scan the computer and see whats off.That probly would take the tuner under 10 minutes and saved you a ton of time and $$.

As for tunes.You can certainly run the car as it is with the MAF.I actually prefer it on STS turbo cars due to the slow spool and the turbo being out back. Seems like alot of people forget how we use to tune these cars 10 years ago.I remember running 16lbs of boost with a stock MAF/ 1bar and some are the cars are still driving today on those tunes.

The problem your having is a sensor,mechanical or the tuner might of missed a setting.

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

Your right, I was confusing 103 with 101.
I stand corrected.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Car ran good after we fixed a vacuum leak on dyno on the hvac port on back of intake which is now capped. Mechanically after issue occurred he said check for vacuum leaks. This is what I did as extra precaution. Swapped to a new factory GM MAP and sealed it in with rtv, new intake gaskets, checked and inspected every inch of vacuum lines to wastegate,bov, boost controller, and gauges. Which are all on there own vacuum source not T'd. Swapped O2's with new, short term and long term fuel look good, short term at idle is 0 to - and occasionally breaks a +2 or 3 but never beyond. Maf frequency from my interceptor is showing good even when revving values increase. Ive checked all piping and couplers. My wideband which is located about 10-12 inches on exhaust side exiting turbo at idle when cranking dead cold runs 14.5 for a sec then starts going toward 12 to 11. Then after warm goes to 14.8-16.5 then occasionally 17. Fuel pressure is at 60psi at rails, when blipping throttle never goes past 56-57psi. Also thats only the one 255 pump as secomd one kicks in at 1psi. Car starts breaking up even at idle but Im not showing any misfires according to interceptor. Checked all 8 plugs looked ok. Inspected all plug wires, and as always installed with dielectric and connections looked new. I checked and cleaned Maf. checked IAT for pulling unmetered air as its after maf. Checked MAF and MAP wiring, also connections at PCM. Im running out of things mechanically. Car pulls good Vacuum 15 inches, checked for leaks first by whole can of carb cleaner. Then pulled out propane tank and hose. No change in idle. I shimmed bov to be closed barely at idle, even though all air is metered pulled in from there. Im not to shabby mechanically, have been working on cars for years, Im ASE cert'd worked on line as driveability tech before for 6 GM lines. Losing my mind on this one other then tuning or a setting not right. codes where p0101 and a o2 code I dont recall before clearing. Tested car once after the above and was bucking just cruising in 2nd or 3rd. And then when slowly rolling on throttle bucking and chopping. If and when it did make boot car cuts out totally like turning the car off mid pull and not turning back on till I let off throttle. Have not driven car again as I want tuner to take a look. I will be sure to get file before and after changes. Im not doubting my tuner, smart guy, tuned many peoples car on here. Hes just sick so I got to wait and it sucks ***** Im so ready to drive this baby. Everything I did above and car is still running the same.

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

VIP, Mike Norris tuned my car in 2-bar OLSD. Ask him how many times he had to adjust it...(never, unless I ran more boost or race gas). I live in the same state as you near a large body of water.

A properly tuned SD setup is much more accurate and reliable than a MAF tune on FI cars, IMO.